• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

SH-775 wiring and battery drain

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
I am electrically challenged, I guess. I really can't get everything in that diagram. I am not sure what the arrows indicate. It just looks as if there is an additional fuse added from the battery to the r/r. I want to connect it the best and most reliable way.
 
Last edited:
1980GS1000E said:
I am electrically challenged, I guess. I really can't get everything in that diagram. I am not sure what the arrows indicate. It just looks as if there is an additional fuse added from the battery to the r/r. I want to connect it the best and most reliable way.
Click to expand...

The analysis is comparing the current flow from and to the three components ( r/r, battery, and electrical system) the summary does a side by side compare of the differences and conclusions of the two configurations. The issue I understanding the summary and conclusions has little to so with v=IR.

I even state explicitly don't change the wAy Suzuki did it.
 
I wonder if I should delete this thread before Jim goes thru the roof and types something to get himself banned :D
 
I'll just hook it up to the red wire in the harness. I haven't changed anything except removing the headlight loop and the 775 r/r. we shall see if the new stator fixes the no-charge issue.
 
When "the 15 amp main fuse blows while bike is running" stuff is the kicker for me- having your bike conk out on expressway due to overstressed chinese fuse is no fun. better to discover this at next gas stop!
 
So when i installed my Honda RR I did as Posplayr is suggesting and wired into the harness rather than direct to the battery. This was also at the suggestion of my Automotive electric friend (he re wires custom RV's dump trucks and crap).

He also helped me install the coil relay Mod. But in his suggested configuration he has me wire it directly from the post on the starters Solenoid instead of direct to the battery any potential issues with this setup?
 
Last edited:
OldVet66 said:
1980CS1000E I used the original stator when I changed to my Compu-Fire despite warnings that the stator color indicated it would fail. It ran perfectly for one year, then failed. Replaced the stator and everything was fine again. I had initially wired to the stock harness feed. I changed it to direct battery feed through a fuse and charging was definitely better with less dimming of the headlight at idle.
Click to expand...

Charging voltage on my 1000S was low, and following the Stator Papers step #2 "Measure Positive Lead Voltage Drop" procedure showed there was voltage loss in the path between the R/R power output and the battery. Cleaned all the connectors in the circuit (removed the brass contacts and cleaned before reinstalling) and recovered the lost voltage. Checking for the loss is easy enough; us a voltmeter between the + battery terminal and the R/R output wire. Easy enough to take care of and avoids having to add extra wires into the system.
 
tom203 said:
When "the 15 amp main fuse blows while bike is running" stuff is the kicker for me- having your bike conk out on expressway due to overstressed chinese fuse is no fun. better to discover this at next gas stop!
Click to expand...
...so,(from that diagram) I'm still going down the expressway unaware of any issue while the charging system lights the bike on fire?..great.
 
Gorminrider said:
...so,(from that diagram) I'm still going down the expressway unaware of any issue while the charging system lights the bike on fire?..great.
Click to expand...

If the main fuse blows or breaks a fire will not nessesarily ensue. At elevated rpm you will overcharge but that is the worst of it. That a lot safer than having the bike quit in traffic. If you have a volt meter you should see it immediately upon glancing at that indicator.

I don't think that is however the driver for me, it is that in a direct battery connection you have to increase the fuse size well above the actual load requirement. That is just not good. There are other more subtle reasons as well. This a clear example of Suzuki having done the design correct and the popular naive way is just asking for trouble.
And the KAW method ed keeps coming up with where there is no fuse between the battery and r/r is just idiotic. If the r/r shorts the battery will fry anything between it and that ground.
 
I see a fuse in both diagrams Nessism posted. He says in the post that there is an inline fuse too. I think the symbol is just different.

I believe I actually have the Skunk setup as per the bottom one (i.e. I feed both the fuse box & the battery directly (through a fuse) although I can't say for sure without going to look... :)

I expect the "running 11amp" as opposed to running "4 amp" figure could answer some questions for faults that I thought were related to something else if I am reading the material correctly. :)
 
salty_monk said:
I see a fuse in both diagrams Nessism posted. He says in the post that there is an inline fuse too. I think the symbol is just different.

I believe I actually have the Skunk setup as per the bottom one (i.e. I feed both the fuse box & the battery directly (through a fuse) although I can't say for sure without going to look... :)

I expect the "running 11amp" as opposed to running "4 amp" figure could answer some questions for faults that I thought were related to something else if I am reading the material correctly. :)
Click to expand...

Granted I did have to make some assumptions of how people wired theirs up. I'm sure they are not all the same. What I figured was, that they would probably do what appeared most straight forward which is to go right to the battery with the R/R including an in-line 20-25Amp fuse in between the two on the RED(+) side. Then they would just tape back the red wire coming from the harness (where the R/R used to go to the "T").

If you double check that is how the lower drawings are constructed as the "popular method"
 
So removed the stator after testing it and discovered that it is shorted to ground on one lead. The rotor looks fine, but I found another problem. Anyone care to guess what it is?

2014-05-10165845.jpg
 
The starter is not engaging properly? from the picture it looks like the teeth are barely touching. Take of the starter cover, I bet the bolts have come loose.
 
Is that just the picture or is the edge of your rotor ground down a bit?
 
Close. I had to remove the case savers to get the cover off. It is the missing countershaft sprocket nut. I don't even know how long it's been like this.
 
1980GS1000E said:
Close. I had to remove the case savers to get the cover off. It is the missing countershaft sprocket nut. I don't even know how long it's been like this.
Click to expand...

Wow! I look at the sprocket and missed it.:o
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top