Shafted! Secondary drive quandary

[Rusty Studebaker]

For those of you keeping score, this GS1100GL job started with rebuilding the carbs and moved to new valve stem seals, which I first tried to do without removing the head. It's definitely possible, but I got sick of playing with improvised tools and removed the head and cylinders. I installed the seals, then cleaned the combustion chambers and the piston heads. After moving the bike around a little I noticed gear oil (smell test verified) under it. It was coming out of the drive shaft boot, which (I think) means the oil seal at the end of the driven gear is letting gear oil into the boot. Or maybe something is broken off? Will be getting into it this week.
So it looks like I need to remove the secondary driven gear (at the least), disassemble it with a hydraulic press if necessary, do whatever needs to be done, and reinstall it. I saw the PDF dedicated to changing the bearings on a 1980 GS1000 shaftie and I assume the secondary is roughly the same for a 1982 GS1100.

Which brings me to question #1.

Should I pull both the drive and driven gears as long as I'm in there? I have no evidence of problems with the drive gear, but if there are some other things I should deal with while I have it open, I'd like to do it. Er, maybe "like" is a bit strong.

Question #2:
Right now there is no oil in the engine and the pan is off. With the top off too, it's a good time to stick a snake camera in there and look around. I'd like to know if any of the seals in the crankcase are letting engine oil into the secondary, as that was an earlier suspicion. Problem is, I'm not sure what a bad seal might look like. Is there a way to test this theory short of waiting to see what happens after I get it all back together? Any help here would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance. ​

 

[Redman]

Just looking to see about this positing about secondary&driven gears (shaft drive talk) in the 2 Cylinder section.

Perhaps you can copy the text, and then delete this post and make new posting elsewhere.

 

[Rusty Studebaker]

I see it's in 2 cylinder now, not sure if I did that by accident or admin switched it. Anyway, I have it all pulled out. Drive gear bearings seem fine so I'm not going to press apart that assembly. Driven bearings were a little janky and probably what caused the seal to leak, so they and the seals/o-rings are being replaced. Will probably have some questions on shims/preload/backlash when I start getting it back together. I have a shop manual, Clymer, this site and Youtube, so we'll see how it goes. Also reassembling the top end and rebuilding the forks. Already rebuilt the brakes and swapped in stainless lines. New tires too. If I do my part correctly this bike will be almost new when I finish. If!

 

[dpep]

I see it's in 2 cylinder now, not sure if I did that by accident or admin switched it.

Rusty, I did move your topic from GS Discussion as that forum is specifically designated to be not for technical questions. I did make an error though as this topic belongs in 4 cylinder which is where I thought I moved it. I am now going to correct my error correcting your error.

Have you checked the drive splines in the rear hub? 82 was the first year for the soft splines. If they have not been replaced it would be a good thing to do while you are at it.