Sheared bolts in GS1000 cylinder head

[1978]

Hey folks. So I was working on a valve adjustment for my 78 GS1000 and while I was removing the valve cover, some of the heads of the bolts sheared straight off. Do you guys have any recommendations on removing the bodies that are now embedded in the cylinder head? Ideal would be to somehow drill and extract if there's a tool out there you have had success with, I'd love to hear about it. Also, what about helicoil? Has anyone used that and can lend some advice?

 

[Guest]

Others have successfully helicoiled those on their own but I have always taken to a machine shop. Of course that means a top end gasket kit and likely valve seals and rings since you have it all open anyways.

 

[Guest]

Hey folks. So I was working on a valve adjustment for my 78 GS1000 and while I was removing the valve cover, some of the heads of the bolts sheared straight off. Do you guys have any recommendations on removing the bodies that are now embedded in the cylinder head? Ideal would be to somehow drill and extract if there's a tool out there you have had success with, I'd love to hear about it. Also, what about helicoil? Has anyone used that and can lend some advice?

How many did you break off and can you get a drill straight done the bolt hole or is the frame in the way?

 

[blowerbike]

they broke because they was oxidized...i had a 1000 i was working on that broke over half the bolts.
original owner and never serviced.
had to get the ok to remove the head and had a machine shop remove what was left on a mill.
it was an expensive valve adjustment to say the least.
good luck.

 

[mikerophone]

I just did the same thing tonight on my 850, luckily it was only one bolt and of course the frame is in the way...so I'm hoping I can get the valve cover off and maybe use a pair of vise grips. It's one of the top four bolts that hold the breather/vent cover on so it's probably too close to get in there with a right angle drill adapter too :-(

 

[limeex2]

Note to all who listen.I worked as service manager in a oem dealership for over 20 years. If you are in any way unsure of removing these,Take it in. When the machine shop gets it with a broken off ezee-out,drll bit or off center drilling it will get even more expensive or worse.....just my opinion.

 

[mikerophone]

I broke off an EZ out and 2 left handed drill bits removing broken exhaust manifold bolts in the head on my ladies honda this summer. Luckily I had the engine out of the car so it was much easier.

My guess is the PO on this bike (42k miles) never had the valves adjusted, VC gasket is leaking and possibly the base gasket too. Too much crud caked everywhere to tell. Was hoping to clean up the cake as much as I can, shim the valves, dip and put new o rings in the carbs and not mess with the header or removing the engine... If not, I can't wait to take the pipes off and see what other bolts shear off In the head. I have access to an old Bridgeport mill here at work but no special jigs/vises/clamps to hold the head. Guess I could craft something up myself...otherwise it's off to the shop.

 

[1978]

I broke off about four. I can probably reach two or three with a cordless drill

 

[1978]

Man, that just drives me nuts. Same for mine looks like the PO never touched the valves. WHY?!?! Simple adjustment, makes a big difference!

 

[mikerophone]

Agreed! I may have gotten lucky though - mine was just the breather cover on the cover held on by the top 4 bolts that don't actually go into the head.

This little guy here:

Man was it greasy:

But a little Simple Green and a lot of grease of my own, from my elbow...and she cleaned up nice. Might still polish it but at least I can try to extract the bolt remains OFF the bike and scrape the gasket off and button it up when I shim the valves as needed:

Best of luck with yours 1978!! Be careful with EZ outs if you go that route.

 

[1978]

Yea you got lucky! just on the breather cover then. Getting ready to scrape the gasket off now. The gaskets on the carbs are killing me

 

[mikerophone]

Yea you got lucky! just on the breather cover then. Getting ready to scrape the gasket off now. The gaskets on the carbs are killing me

Yes, they are a pain, so thin and brittle, just go slow and scrape perpendicular to the mating surface. I use a razor blade (carefully) and a brillow/scotchbright pad.

 

[bwringer]

Whatever you do, do NOT try EZ-outs. They do NOT work on stuck bolts. They WILL break, and then you're really floating down fecal creek with no means of propulsion.

I've had excellent luck on small fasteners in aluminum with quality left-handed drill bits. Cut the broken surface level if you can, precisely mark and dimple the center point, and drill straight with lube. Much of the time they'll spin out.



On a machinist forum, one person explained that EZ-Outs are meant only for removing fasteners that have sheared off or broken from other causes, but they were never designed to be able to remove seized fasteners. I don't know what the origin of EX-outs actually was (I suspect Beelzebub was involved, actually), but it fits the facts.

 

[blowerbike]

heat heat and more heat....

 

[Fjbj40]

Here is my trick, I drill all the way through the fastener with a 3/32 bit. This allows the use of penetrant with its small straw to get to the other side of the fastener. I then tap it multiple times, let it sit for a day or so and it usually spins out pretty easily with an easy-out or L/H drill bit.

Yes I also hate easy-outs and they are the extreme last resort, I have used them for the past 25 years in the aircraft maintenance industry and have only ever broken one off in a bolt. I know their limits and that is the trick with using them.

cheers,
Daryl

 

[mikerophone]

Here is my trick, I drill all the way through the fastener with a 3/32 bit. This allows the use of penetrant with its small straw to get to the other side of the fastener. I then tap it multiple times, let it sit for a day or so and it usually spins out pretty easily with an easy-out or L/H drill bit.

Yes I also hate easy-outs and they are the extreme last resort, I have used them for the past 25 years in the aircraft maintenance industry and have only ever broken one off in a bolt. I know their limits and that is the trick with using them.

cheers,
Daryl

Your technique works great, unless it's a blind hole...Knowing an EZ outs limits is the key and like Brian mentions about what he learned on a machinist forum, they shouldn't be used for seized fasteners, just broken ones. I've learned that the hard way and after that I tried tricks like where you weld a washer on and then weld a bolt onto it and turn that out. With this method, you get blowerbike's recommendation too.

 

[Fjbj40]

Your technique works great, unless it's a blind hole...Knowing an EZ outs limits is the key and like Brian mentions about what he learned on a machinist forum, they shouldn't be used for seized fasteners, just broken ones. I've learned that the hard way and after that I tried tricks like where you weld a washer on and then weld a bolt onto it and turn that out. With this method, you get blowerbike's recommendation too.

It works just fine if it is a blind hole. You just have to make sure you only drill through the bolt and not into the part and that is a straight forward procedure.

There are many different techniques for removing broken fasteners. Some are usually a bigger challenge, the trick is taking your time and thinking it through. Being in a hurry can often cause more grief. Slow down, access and evaluate the path for rectification will usually ensure a positive result. Asking questions if you have never done it is the first step, as the OP is doing.

 

[mikerophone]

It works just fine if it is a blind hole. You just have to make sure you only drill through the bolt and not into the part and that is a straight forward procedure.

I should have worded my post better, it was not my intention to offend and hopefully I didn't. I've never attempted to drill through a broken bolt in a blind hole as I'm worried that I won't feel the bit break through. What's your method/tip there? Pretty easy to feel it change based on the metal type differences?

1978, any luck with your 4 bolts? If there are still threads adequately exposed, heat, PB Blaster, more heat, tap tap tap with hammer, maybe wait a day, apply more heat/more PB , tap tap and then use vise grips or notch the bolt with a dremel and tackle that way. Personally I have switched to a 50/50 mix of good acetone and ATF.over PB Blaster. It works great.

 

[Fjbj40]

I should have worded my post better, it was not my intention to offend and hopefully I didn't. I've never attempted to drill through a broken bolt in a blind hole as I'm worried that I won't feel the bit break through. What's your method/tip there? Pretty easy to feel it change based on the metal type differences?

1978, any luck with your 4 bolts? If there are still threads adequately exposed, heat, PB Blaster, more heat, tap tap tap with hammer, maybe wait a day, apply more heat/more PB , tap tap and then use vise grips or notch the bolt with a dremel and tackle that way. Personally I have switched to a 50/50 mix of good acetone and ATF.over PB Blaster. It works great.

Often there is another hole that has not got a broken fastener in it so I measure the hole depth and use it as a reference.
If not then a slow feed with multiple removal and inspections and a "feel" for the "break-through" is required. Often there is a void in a blind hole (bolt usually does not bottom out) so you can feel the break through. Once again this comes from experience, something I gained from living on the corrosive East Coast of Canada .

No offense taken, it's all good. Hopefully someone learns from our ramblings:encouragement:

 

[mikerophone]

Often there is another hole that has not got a broken fastener in it so I measure the hole depth and use it as a reference.
If not then a slow feed with multiple removal and inspections and a "feel" for the "break-through" is required. Often there is a void in a blind hole (bolt usually does not bottom out) so you can feel the break through. Once again this comes from experience, something I gained from living on the corrosive East Coast of Canada .

No offense taken, it's all good. Hopefully someone learns from our ramblings:encouragement:

I'm learning, hopefully the OP comes back at some point and does as well.

I'm glad there was no offense taken...That's a good point, measure another hole and use the electrical tape over the bit at the proper depth trick. Otherwise feel for the breakthrough. I'm sure I'll get the chance to try it at some point.

Is your user name a mixture of your name and a Toyota Landcruiser by chance?