Shim trading info??

[Caferob]

Hey guys,

Im cehcking clearances today and heard about a trading system guys do here.

my plan is the get all the currect measurements and either shuffle and buy a few or i might need all. I can't even fit a .002 inside my valves now.

Thanks!

 

[Burque73]

Howdy Caferob. I have yet to subscribe to the shim exchange club but here's a link to a thread you can find info on it.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?122394-GS-Valve-Shim-Club

 

[chuck hahn]

How it works is you figure out what you need and PM Ray. When they arrive you swap out the old ones and send them back to Ray.

 

[Steve]

May I also point you to the offer in my signature?

Just another handy tool to help you figure out what shims you will need and also a handy tool to keep track of what you have in there, so it will be easier to tell what you will need next time.

.

 

[JTGS850GL]

There is a donation requirement to get you into the system but it's up to you. Typically it's some small amount or $$ or extra shims. He even accepts stamps. Something to offset the cost of running the system. Really a great deal if you ask me.

 

[Caferob]

There is a donation requirement to get you into the system but it's up to you. Typically it's some small amount or $$ or extra shims. He even accepts stamps. Something to offset the cost of running the system. Really a great deal if you ask me.

Aswesome! Thanks Guys. I just ordered the motion pro tool and about to order a new gasket depending on if the Ebay seller lets me know if its the correct one. Heres the link and its a good deal that inclides the plugs.

I'll measure them all, one by one. Do the math and figure out what I need. I did a test and can't fit any feeler size from .002 and above so I am assuming ill need all 8, either reuse a few of mine already and get a few new ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360744707318

 

[Caferob]

I am assuming the motion pro tool is the best bet since I'll be doing valves from time to time. But is there a cheat way to keep the bucket down and grab the shim? I saw the ziptie method but the tie wasnt thick enough to hold the valve. Id rather not damage the vales in there either.

 

[Burque73]

I am assuming the motion pro tool is the best bet since I'll be doing valves from time to time. But is there a cheat way to keep the bucket down and grab the shim? I saw the ziptie method but the tie wasnt thick enough to hold the valve. Id rather not damage the vales in there either.

I havent tried the motion pro tool (other than the knock off I made from scrap steel) but have used the zip tie method several times. It works very well but may dislodge some carbon inside the cylinder and give an inacurate reading though, so be sure your initial measurements and math are correct.

This may be the most common maintenance topic so there are many many threads on shims and valve clearance.

Just how tiny was the zip tie you used? One about 1/4" wide should suffice, folded in half so its doubled over, poked through the spark plug hole and up into the valve seat.

 

[Caferob]

It Was a small one. I figure the tool will be easier. maybe next time with the ziptie. Tool was 14 bucks.

Just how tiny was the zip tie you used?.

 

[Burque73]

It Was a small one. I figure the tool will be easier. maybe next time with the ziptie. Tool was 14 bucks.

Well, truth be told you'll probably save some time using the right tool once you get the hang of it. With the zip tie you wind up rotating the crank over and over to trap, then release the tie from the valve.

BTW, I didn't want to discourage you from asking a question especially if it will likely save you some grief down the road. Just wanted to encourage you to look into the previous Q and A on the whole shim thing. One member posted about getting a taste of motor oil when the bucket was depressed and squirted right into his mouth:sour: so it can be quite entertaining to read through old posts too.

Cheers!

 

[Caferob]

Well, truth be told you'll probably save some time using the right tool once you get the hang of it. With the zip tie you wind up rotating the crank over and over to trap, then release the tie from the valve.

BTW, I didn't want to discourage you from asking a question especially if it will likely save you some grief down the road. Just wanted to encourage you to look into the previous Q and A on the whole shim thing. One member posted about getting a taste of motor oil when the bucket was depressed and squirted right into his mouth:sour: so it can be quite entertaining to read through old posts too.

Cheers!

Not a problem at all! I love all the help I can get here so I am very thankful for the direction.

 

[Steve]

I am assuming the motion pro tool is the best bet since I'll be doing valves from time to time. But is there a cheat way to keep the bucket down and grab the shim? I saw the ziptie method but the tie wasnt thick enough to hold the valve. Id rather not damage the vales in there either.

What size tie did you use? One that is about 1/4" wide and about 10-12" long works very well. Fold it in half, use some tape or shrink wrap to keep the ends together. Put a crease about 1/2" from the folded end, make it about a 45-degree bend. That is the end you stick under the edge of the valve, the doubled thickness is plenty to get the shim out.

Well, truth be told you'll probably save some time using the right tool once you get the hang of it. With the zip tie you wind up rotating the crank over and over to trap, then release the tie from the valve.

I will admit that it is quite a bit of crank turning, but that is only for the first time around. You need to inventory each valve (and put it back), then you need to go back and move things around when you get your new shims. After that, you might have to change one or two shims, so there isn't much crank turning at all. And some of us have never gotten the hang of how to keep that blasted "proper" tool from slipping off the side of the bucket.

When the tool slips off the bucket, you had better hope that the shim is fully in place, but even that is no guarantee that the shim won't crack. However, if the shim is partly out, it will surely shatter when it meets the cam. I had that happen with a Kawasaki and do not wish to repeat the experience. I had to fish through the oil pools and down the cam chain tunnel with a pencil magnet for quite a while, then spend some time to re-assemble the pieces to see how much I had retrieved. When I was comfortable with what I had found, I continued with the valve adjustment.

.

 

[850 Combat]

At least you got the zip tie in there, Robert. I couldn't see in there well enough to do it. The motion pro tool takes a little getting used to. Mine slipped, but it didn't hurt anything. Once you figure it out, its pretty stable. It still takes some figuring to get the shims out.

 

[850 Combat]

Also, Robert, Steve's spread sheet is worth using.

 

[Caferob]

So far I've checked all the exhaust shins. They all measure, and are stamped with, 2.80.
I am about to do the intake shims now. I am assuming they are all too big because i cant even fit a .002 feeler guage in any of my valves.

 

[Caferob]

Update: Spoke with RapidRay. So all of my intake shims were at 2.75 and all my exhaust shims were 2.80, giving me no clearance. I tested the #1 exhaust clearance with the 2.75 shim from the exhaust side and it cleared at .002, perfect! So I am going to contact the shim trading deal on here and send out my 2.80's for 2.75's, and also get 2.70's for the intake valves.

Loving the motion pro tool btw!! I use a screw driver to keep it from slipping when pulling the outer shims.

 

[Caferob]

Update: All intake shims are at 2.75 and need more clearance so I need 2.70.
All exhaust valves are at 2.80 and after testing 2.75 I can clear .002 feeler guage through them. So exhaust valves need to be at 2.75.
Ill reuse my 2.75's on exhaust and buy 4 new 2.70's for the intake.

 

[Steve]

If you are lucky, that is all it will take, but don't be surprised if you might also need a few 2.65s, maybe even a 2.60.

Just be sure to measure each one, don't assume that just because one of them took a 2.75 that all of them will need a 2.75.

.

 

[Caferob]

If you are lucky, that is all it will take, but don't be surprised if you might also need a few 2.65s, maybe even a 2.60.

Just be sure to measure each one, don't assume that just because one of them took a 2.75 that all of them will need a 2.75.

.

Got it. I tested the 2.75's in all 4 exhaust valves and they all fit the .002 feeler guage. I haven't checked the intake's at 2.70 yet, I was simply assuming since the exhausts went down by 5 thousandths. The local suzuki dealership sells them at 9 bucks a pop so Maybe Ill grab them and return them if I need smaller.

 

[Burque73]

Got it. I tested the 2.75's in all 4 exhaust valves and they all fit the .002 feeler guage. I haven't checked the intake's at 2.70 yet, I was simply assuming since the exhausts went down by 5 thousandths. The local suzuki dealership sells them at 9 bucks a pop so Maybe Ill grab them and return them if I need smaller.

9 bucks is actually not too bad. They're 16 here, if you can find them at all.