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Short forks

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
So, I managed to waste one of my fork caps. It didn't round over, more like crumbled under wrench pressure, and yes I had the pinch bolts completely loose, even wedged open. It's a perfect example of how a shop with the the right tools can spin things loose easily and make quick work of what is otherwise a simple project. Anyway, it's not coming out now without a drill, so I found a really good deal on another pair forks. Same part number, X4191, left and right, off the same year and model bike, 81 1100e, and they're exactly 2 inches shorter. They seem to work fine, although one is definitely leaking. What gives?
 

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Somebody do me a favor if you have an 81 1100e. Measure your fork length. I've got 34 3/4" from the tip of the adjuster on the bottom to the top of the cap. The replacements I bought with the exact same part number are 2" shorter.
Thanks,
gary
 
Some PO probably lowered them, it's fairly common and easy to do or undo.
 
So how is that done? Just shorter springs? A 2" drop in the front seems like a lot. If I went with that, wouldn't I have drop the rear somehow too, and wouldn't that give me ride, handling, and ground clearance issues?
 
All of these issues. Last resort for short folks who have to ride bikes too big for them. Usually a spacer and a shorter spring. Take it apart and see what's inside.
 
So I took the caps off and found normal length springs. The tubes don't pull up any further, still 2" short. What would I find if I took them apart further? I'm still trying to get a crumbled cap out of the forks I want to use. I'm thinking a hole saw and a machine shop for that one.
 

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1100E Forks

1100E Forks

I have some stock 1100ez forks from an 82.Can check length sunday when back in town? RS
 
Forks are most commonly lowered with spacers on the damper rods. You'll have to disassemble the forks to remove the spacer (and you should be disassembling the "new" forks all the way anyway to clean and inspect everything and install new seals). Hopefully it's just a spacer and not hacked up in some other way.

A 2" drop is pretty severe, so it was probably done for drag racing back in the day.

To remove and perhaps even salvage that cap so it's usable, I'd simply drill a couple of shallow holes (so you hopefully don't break through) and use an adjustable pin spanner to unscrew it. You can also make a crude pin spanner from a length of steel with a couple of holes drilled into it and a couple of bolts and nuts. I've done this with 5mm bolts and a chunk of scrap steel.

If the holes do break through, you can tap them and install short screws as plugs.
 
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