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Skunk Clutch rattle

salty_monk

salty_monk

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
It's always made some noise/vibration but has started to get worse. I've put 3k miles on the bike since I put it back on the road. Goes away when I pull the clutch lever in.
The 1000G is much smoother.

I will first check the hub nut is tight (do I need a tool for that or can I do it in gear & what size socket is it?) I did check it when I checked the plates etc before it went back on the road, was tight then.

Other than that I assume it's probably springs/rivets/balance on the clutch basket?

If so the cure I think is a welded clutch basket? Any recommendations / idea of $$? Can I use stock plates & fibres?

Cheers,

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
I will first check the hub nut is tight (do I need a tool for that or can I do it in gear & what size socket is it?) :)
Click to expand...

Its a bigun. 1.250" ? Ray & Chef are gonna be here any minute to tell you to get that $25 APE nut.

100_4544.jpg
 
Last edited:
32mm works for me.
Oh yeah on cue.
Get the $25 APE clutch hub nut. :p :cool:
 
Ray,

Will give you a shout tomorrow.

I need to get inside there first & have a look at what's going on I guess, other than the vibration & increased noise it runs great, don't notice it when moving.

Dan :)
 
Dan,

Have you checked your carb sync lately? Poor synchronization will give an uneven idle which can cause clutch rattle..................

Thanks,
Joe
 
Nope, not checked it since the day after it went back on the road.... Would 3k be enough to upset things?
It's been worse since I've been running less......

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
Nope, not checked it since the day after it went back on the road.... Would 3k be enough to upset things?
It's been worse since I've been running less......

Dan :)
Click to expand...

Dan,

It's difficult to judge by mileage. Any change in intake (dirty filter, intake leak, etc.) could affect the sync. It's easier to check than pulling the clutch apart. You'll also probably notice it more in cooler weather. Mine has a noticeable rattle when it is cold but it pretty much disappears once it warms up and the idle evens out.

Thanks,
Joe
 
salty_monk said:
Nope, not checked it since the day after it went back on the road.... Would 3k be enough to upset things?
It's been worse since I've been running less......

Dan :)
Click to expand...

I will say this much, my big nut was loose on the first go around, so I pulled everything and discovered that the big springs were a tad loose in the back, but the smaller springs were fine. So, I put a new OEM nut on and washer (I went cheap), built a tool and torqued to spec.

With the big springs loose it does not rattle. Maybe by the time it gets to 34 it will.

I have seen both sides of the argument for welded vs. new OEM. I guess the new OEM's are updated.

I also bought a spare basket/gear so that if I happen have 300 dollars laying around with nothing better to do, I could send it off to be re-springed and welded.

I would probably go with the OEM unit seeing that mine is a GL and I am not out doing crazy stuff or putting down modified E horsepower.
 
I just replaced my 1150 HD clutch basket and found the basket rocking on the gear. It's 12 years old. I too thought my noise was coming from the clutch. I put a unmolested used HD basket and new inner clutch hub in and the noise and ruckus are still there. I do have the Ape nut.

It sounds like a turbo cummins diesel at idle or a Ducati with a dry clutch.

Maybe my roller bearings on the crank are on the way out?
 
I had rattles in my old 750EF and 1150EF which both went away over 1500 RPM. So I just put my idle up to 1500. Problem solved :cool:
 
carter,
call me.
i may be able to shed some light on the (rattle) at idle that goes away when you roll the throttle up.
terry
 
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