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Snapped Bolt

  • Thread starter Thread starter dwvoss
  • Start date Start date
D

dwvoss

Guest
Just before the Fennimore ride, my 850L developed a leak in one of the exhaust gaskets. The more I rode, the worse it got, so last night I started on the task of taking the exhaust apart so I can replace the gaskets. So far the score is 5 bolts out :-D, 1 bolt snapped :(, 2 bolts stuck:-k. I'm currently applying generous quantities of PB to the 2.5 bolts that remain, and will apply heat as well to try to get them to loosen up.

I'm now trying to decide whether to get an extractor to try to remove the snapped bolt, or whether I should bite the bullet and take the bike into a shop to have the broken bolt removed. What do you think?
 
It depends on your situation. I have the same problem. Previose owner
snapped off a bolt halfway down, replaced it with a stud which he
JB welded. So I am drilling it out. Of course its one of the middle ones.
I tried an easy out but could not keep ahold of the easy out when it
caught. If you have a good garage, tools, and plenty of time, do it
yourself and learn something, otherwise.....
 
dwvoss said:
Just before the Fennimore ride, my 850L developed a leak in one of the exhaust gaskets. The more I rode, the worse it got, so last night I started on the task of taking the exhaust apart so I can replace the gaskets. So far the score is 5 bolts out :-D, 1 bolt snapped :(, 2 bolts stuck:-k. I'm currently applying generous quantities of PB to the 2.5 bolts that remain, and will apply heat as well to try to get them to loosen up.

I'm now trying to decide whether to get an extractor to try to remove the snapped bolt, or whether I should bite the bullet and take the bike into a shop to have the broken bolt removed. What do you think?
Click to expand...

So, that was why it was going "pop,pop,pop..." all the time. The only way to do it right (ugh!!!!) is to pull the head, take it to a shop (or do it yourself if you have a drill press), center drill the broken off bolt(s) then very carefully easi-out them (lots of PB Blaster). I have done it with a hand held power drill, but it's difficult. I've also drilled them out to the point where I could crush the offending bolt with a small screwdriver or metal scribe and removed them, but it's very difficult to do with the head on the bike. Just thank God it's October, and you've already done Fennimore........:-D
 
You could of course try it yourself and maybe experience a 10% chance of success, or take some good advice and take the bike into a shop to get it removed. But from my experience with most of the new "wrenchers" to this site they would rather try to remove it and mess it up royally before breaking down and taking it to a shop. But, we learn by touching the stove to learn it is hot.


Take it to a shop.
 
Drilling out the bolt works, but if you are not careful you can mess up the head. If you decide to do it yourself start with a small drill bit and try to hit the dead center. Move up the bit sizes until you can clean up the hole with a tap. I've had nothing but bad experiences with easy outs so I'd recommend against those.
 
Use anti-seize on the bolts if and when you put the exhaust back on.
 
Easy out's work great if your dealing with a bolt that snapped because you over tight. The balance of the bolt should spin easy.If the bolt snapped becuase of rust or other factors, don't try the easy out.
 
How much of the bolt has snapped? Pictures please.

If you have enough of the bolt left sticking out of the cylinder head place a flat washer over the bolt and against the head and weld the washer to the bolt. Then add a nut. As you weld the heat will loosen the bolt in the head and you can then undo the offedning broken bolt.

If its snapped flush or down the thread hole its a centre punch and drill out. Make sure that you do not snap off a drill while doing it!!!
Once its out you can chase the thread out with a 'tap' or have the hole helicoiled if you have missed by a little.

If you used an 'easy out' be prepaired for it to snap and then you have lots of work stripping and getting the broken 'easy out' and bolt removed from the head by spark erosion method.

Suzuki mad.
 
bwringer said:
Easy-outs are evil.
Click to expand...

I'm in FULL AGREEMENT with that - easy-outs are a great way to make a small problem a BIG problem.

Bring it to a shop & get it fixed right, repeat the following, "must use anti-seize..."

Good luck
 
hikermikem said:
Bring it to a shop & get it fixed right, repeat the following, "must use anti-seize..."

Good luck
Click to expand...


I for one NEVER take my bike to the shop...EVER, because I want it fixed right!
 
Since no one has mentioned it yet - is the bolt borken off flush, sticking out, down in the head, what? If it's still sticking out then do the PB/heat routine a few times and then use a small pipe wrench on the piece you can get to. It will bite much better than a vise-grip and bites harder the harder you force it.

If it's flush or down in the threads it is time for professional help, but I would think that a decent machine shop is a much better choice than the chimps at your local dealer. I am with Nessism, my bikes NEVER see the inside of a shop again after I take them home. Too many horror stories and bad experiences of friends to let me ever do that with a clear conscience...

Mark
 
Go to the local bar where the local machinists hang and make some friends. :-D
 
Nessism said:
I for one NEVER take my bike to the shop...EVER, because I want it fixed right!
Click to expand...

I was referring to a machine shop, not a bike shop.

I don't have a lot of confidence in any place that measures its output by the number of jobs "completed," rather than how well they were done (e.g., most bike shops).
 
The bolt is snapped off flush. I think based on the advice here, I'll be visiting my local machine shop. Thanks!
 
When you think about it, if the head rung right off with a full bolt under it, how can an easy out manage to break it loose?

If you get them out use studs and nuts instead of bolts. This was a mistake for Suzuki to use bolts, other makers used studs instead.
 
Suzuki mad has the right idea. I have done this many times without using the washer. But the washer is a good idea if you have enough room for the nut. Sometimes the nun may twist off, and you will have to weld another nut back on. I put the nut on then fill the center of the nut with weld. Like heat helps to loosten the bolt. Let it cool a bit before you try to turn the nut, at least till the red has gone out.

Greg O.
 
broken bolts-exhaust

broken bolts-exhaust

Not fun or good. I once bought a 1985 gs1150es that was "nice" except for the rusty v&h header. All 8 bolts broke off flush with the head!! The way these are removed is with an EDM type machine made for vaporizing broken bolts and taps. The head must be removed. I had a shop with one, it looked like a drill press, but high voltage fed thru what would be the drill bit. Very old and cool machine. The best part was the threads emerged in perfect shape! I am in Wisconsin, and idiots go riding with salt on the roads, and the salt spray locks the bolts in forever.
 
One of the best tricks that I've learned is to tighten the bolt by about an eighth turn before trying to loosen it. And if it is at all tight, loosen it by 20 degrees, then tighten it by 10 degrees. Work in as much penetrating oil as possible.

I dread the day that I have to remove my exhaust header bolts. The PO screwed up so much simple stuff that I assume that the exhaust will be a royal PITA.
 
shotblaster said:
The head must be removed...
Click to expand...

I made a brief visit to my local machine shop yesterday, and got the same type of advice, that they would want the engine out of the bike frame. I've started back through my manuals, and one states that the cylinder head can be removed with the engine still in the frame. This is the approach that I plan to take. Any tips or tricks associated with this process would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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