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Snapped stator bolt,Gpz750

  • Thread starter Thread starter SVSooke
  • Start date Start date
S

SVSooke

Guest

Being down inside the cover makes it hard to get at
So far I've tried:
Heating with propane torch then PBBlaster.
Slotting with a dremal and a impact driver
And of course a few sets of vice grips all to no avail:mad:
Thought about doing
Left handed drill in my drill press.Don't think it will fit in the vice and I'm horrible doing it with a hand drill:(
Having something welded on.
I have an exposed stub,it really shouldn't be this hard.Other suggestions?
 
If you could get a nut started (Properly on the treads or otherwise) You could weld it on the inside to the broken bolt. Let it cool of on its own and carefully back it out with a socket.
 
Oldman99 said:
If you could get a nut started (Properly on the treads or otherwise) You could weld it on the inside to the broken bolt. Let it cool of on its own and carefully back it out with a socket.
Click to expand...
No room for a nut with the lip let alone a socket,remaining threads are trashed now to.
 
Weld a bolt to the remaining screw to elevate the head in order to get a socket on it. Worst case is you'll have to grind it flat, center punch it and drill it out. Either you can collapse it in and save the original threads or re-tap it.
 
JTGS850GL said:
Weld a bolt to the remaining screw to elevate the head in order to get a socket on it. Worst case is you'll have to grind it flat, center punch it and drill it out. Either you can collapse it in and save the original threads or re-tap it.
Click to expand...
I think your first suggestion's worth a try for sure.I really am terrible drilling out bolts so that really is my last resort:(
 
If option on doesn't work and you find yourself having to drill it out, then the suggestion of taking it to a machine shop is best.
 
There is enough nub there to grab with vice grips. I'd hit it with PB Blaster and then heat the nub with a torch until it approaches red hot. Hit it with more PB Blaster and try to turn the nub out, turning both directions until it busts loose.
 
Nessism said:
There is enough nub there to grab with vice grips. I'd hit it with PB Blaster and then heat the nub with a torch until it approaches red hot. Hit it with more PB Blaster and try to turn the nub out, turning both directions until it busts loose.
Click to expand...

Isn't that going to make the bolt bigger than the hole? I would think you would heat the aluminum or alternate and cool to break the oxidation on the threads?
 
I have drilled a hole down the center and used a left handed tap and bolt. The left handed bolt will screw in and tighten..thus removing a right hand thread bolt.
 
posplayr said:
Isn't that going to make the bolt bigger than the hole? I would think you would heat the aluminum or alternate and cool to break the oxidation on the threads?
Click to expand...

It's about breaking down the oxidation. Lots of times when guys weld a nut onto a broken bolt nub the heat from welding does the trick and the broken shank turns right out.
 
Nessism said:
It's about breaking down the oxidation. Lots of times when guys weld a nut onto a broken bolt nub the heat from welding does the trick and the broken shank turns right out.
Click to expand...

Yes, done that. Got 4 for 4 exhaust bolts out with my trusty HF welder(another guy's bike). Just don't recall trying to twist it out when it was red hot.
 
I don't think my propane torch will get it hot enough Ed.Don't know if it makes a difference but screw appeared to be a stainless Allen(hex head).
 
SVSooke said:
I don't think my propane torch will get it hot enough Ed.Don't know if it makes a difference but screw appeared to be a stainless Allen(hex head).
Click to expand...


Use MAPP gas. When you weld the metal gets pretty hot :)
 
At this point I'll skip the MAPP gas and keep soaking it in penetrating oil for a few days.If that doesn't work and I don't really think it will it will be going to work to have a bolt MIG welded on.
 
SVSooke said:
At this point I'll skip the MAPP gas and keep soaking it in penetrating oil for a few days.If that doesn't work and I don't really think it will it will be going to work to have a bolt MIG welded on.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you are gonna buy another cover.
 
Why not a local machine shop? You are on the road to nowhere by soaking the parts.
The galvanic corrosion and other contributors to this being stuck will not be impacted by soaking.

Id go with MAPP as suggested. Heat cycle it a few times.

Bottle of Mapp is 14 buck plus tax at CT factor in the bother and the travel costs and a machine shop looks pretty darned good.
They will trim it and use a left hand bit and it wil be out in a few minutes of effort.
 
Grind the bolt end flat, center punch it, drill it out starting with a very small drill. Use an easy out to remove it. Snap on has some small sizes that use a fluted rod and a nut to match. I think they are really good. Wish I could find mine, seems to have grown legs! Good luck, Ray
 
Cipher said:
Why not a local machine shop? You are on the road to nowhere by soaking the parts.
The galvanic corrosion and other contributors to this being stuck will not be impacted by soaking.

Id go with MAPP as suggested. Heat cycle it a few times.

Bottle of Mapp is 14 buck plus tax at CT factor in the bother and the travel costs and a machine shop looks pretty darned good.
They will trim it and use a left hand bit and it wil be out in a few minutes of effort.
Click to expand...
A machine shop may be local to you but it's all a trip for me,MAPP gas may not be but I really don't think that will help either.Still in the mulling over what to do stage here.I have a set of left hand drills,can't figure out how to get them to work in my drill press:-k
 
SVSooke said:
A machine shop may be local to you but it's all a trip for me,MAPP gas may not be but I really don't think that will help either.Still in the mulling over what to do stage here.I have a set of left hand drills,can't figure out how to get them to work in my drill press:-k
Click to expand...

Get a longer belt for the drill press and twist it between pulleys. That will reverse it if there's nothing between the pulleys.
 
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