So... My charging issue

[Alan Schlosser]

Yes, yes. Got to go over the Stator papers and I printed them out.
Coming home yesterday after a long ride, I stopped for gas about a mile from home. Went to start it and just about nothing. Getting too old to push a bike and pop start it at my age.

Anyway, had about 11.8 volts when I checked it. Water levels were good. So I put the trickle charger on it overnight.

13 plus volts today. Started fine but at idle, I'm only getting about 12.3 volts and at 4k, I only get about 12.5 volts. I'll check the stator tomorrow, but I'm thinking R/R.

Thoughts?

 

[tom203]

Of course, you will do the deluxe charging tests before you assign blame.Me, I'd guess your stator has an problem.

 

[posplayr]

Stator...........

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I start at the stator if the bike is under-charging.

Stator Test

The output needs to be 60-80 volts AC (be sure to set your meter properly) between all three legs. It is just as important that all three outputs are equal. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Alan Schlosser]

All right Cliff. I'll definitely start at the stator and work my way up. I'll keep you guys posted.
Just hope it turns out to be the R/R. Much easier to change out......

 

[Alan Schlosser]

But, just in case, I called my buddy Mike at Z1. He's got a stator and gasket sitting on the shelf. And he's only 20 minutes from here. Could be a nice project for Saturday.

 

[Toasty]

It's really easy to swap the stator out, it shouldn't take more then a few hours. I'd swap in a new R/R while I was at it too. I have a Shindingen (sp?) off a CBR, they only cost around 15-20 bucks and are way better then the stock ones.

 

[Alan Schlosser]

Ok. My findings. Between each of the three legs, I get about 1.0 ohms. Good so far.
Then from the legs to chassis ground I get a couple ohms. Not good.
Fire it up and at 4k, I get around 62vac between A-B, A-C, but between B-C I only get about 45 vac.
Time to run to Z1 for the stator?

 

[Toasty]

I got mine from Caltric (ebay), $99 bucks plus shipping. Bikecliff is running one so it must be good enough

 

[Alan Schlosser]

So Toasty. Stator right?
I'm just going to run over to Z1. Like the guys. There's is around 130.00 and I don't have any problem with that.

 

[koolaid_kid]

I agree with it being the stator. Do you have a Shindingen R/R yet? They are cheap on fleabay and good insurance against another stator failure.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I think Z1 sells the Rick's Electrics stator units. If so, those are really nice parts. I do have a Caltric unit in my bike right now. It's been about a year and so far, so good.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[NeyborDayfid]

If you're not getting infinite resistance between the stator leads and the engine/frame then I do believe your stator has shorted to the frame through the crank or engine case.
At least you know what it is now.
I had a bike with a bad stator and a bad R/R.
The PO had apparently taken it to a mechanic who misdiagnosed it and swapped in a mismatched rotor and stator and thus added another problem on top of the the R/R. It was a very interesting problem to fix. Through all my testing I think I pulled that left engine case and reinstalled it 4 different times.

 

[Alan Schlosser]

I'm thinking that I might just change out the R/R also.
One question.... You guys use anything on the gasket?

 

[koolaid_kid]

No. All GS gaskets go on dry.

 

[Alan Schlosser]

Ok guys. Just an update. Ran out to Z1 this morning. Got a Rick's stator and R/R. Rob and Chris are cool.
Two hours start to finish. I think it was the original stator as it had the color coded wires. And.... it looked like little bits of charcoal.
Fired it up and I got good voltage at the battery now. Thanks for all the input, the stator papers, and Z1 for their excellent service.
We're riding tomorrow!!