E
Escobarclan
Guest
I've gotten several calls lately for advice on 'hard case cases" (lol), and how to clean up the serious damage and oxidation. I don't mind getting these calls at all from my GS brothers and sisters, but maybe this will save some time.
I posted a thread on basic polishing a few days ago, and judging by the feedback some diy'ers have made good use of it. Some of you here probably know that at Escobar Polishing Co., one of the services I provide for free is advice, here, or by phone for GS'ers.
We're talking the worst possible condition your parts can be in (but still operational).
If your parts have nominal oxidation/clearcoat go here:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=136634
BUT..
If your parts are near death, but you won't give up and want to save them and make them look better than the jerk next door with the freakin' harley, do this:
Go to www.caswellplating.com (they are CHEAP)
Please take in mind that these compounds I suggest are for absolute R-O-U-G-H polishing.
Buy the "250 Greaseless", "400 Greaseless", and 2 spiral sewn wheels (approx. $20 total), and you get ALOT of each.
These compounds will literally rip the oxidation and clearcoat off ANYTHING in seconds, not to mention deep gouges. This is ADVANCED polishing guys and you should know that you will also need the compounds listed in the link I've provided above to finish the polishing steps.
Take in mind that 'greaseless' compounds are 'rubbery' in texture and feel, but is kept soft with imbedded water moisture. This means that it will dry out when kept uncovered, like latex paint, for example. Store the compounds in a ziplock when done.
Unlike other compounds you cannot 'touch and go' with greaseless. You have to touch the compound against the wheel, and wait a few secs for it to dry (while spinning of course). It's called "loading", stop the wheel and what you'll feel is a course sandy like texture on the previously soft wheel. By the way, greaseless is excellent for stripping paint and rust off metal, including powdercoat.
Hope this helps.
I posted a thread on basic polishing a few days ago, and judging by the feedback some diy'ers have made good use of it. Some of you here probably know that at Escobar Polishing Co., one of the services I provide for free is advice, here, or by phone for GS'ers.
We're talking the worst possible condition your parts can be in (but still operational).
If your parts have nominal oxidation/clearcoat go here:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=136634
BUT..
If your parts are near death, but you won't give up and want to save them and make them look better than the jerk next door with the freakin' harley, do this:
Go to www.caswellplating.com (they are CHEAP)
Please take in mind that these compounds I suggest are for absolute R-O-U-G-H polishing.
Buy the "250 Greaseless", "400 Greaseless", and 2 spiral sewn wheels (approx. $20 total), and you get ALOT of each.
These compounds will literally rip the oxidation and clearcoat off ANYTHING in seconds, not to mention deep gouges. This is ADVANCED polishing guys and you should know that you will also need the compounds listed in the link I've provided above to finish the polishing steps.
Take in mind that 'greaseless' compounds are 'rubbery' in texture and feel, but is kept soft with imbedded water moisture. This means that it will dry out when kept uncovered, like latex paint, for example. Store the compounds in a ziplock when done.
Unlike other compounds you cannot 'touch and go' with greaseless. You have to touch the compound against the wheel, and wait a few secs for it to dry (while spinning of course). It's called "loading", stop the wheel and what you'll feel is a course sandy like texture on the previously soft wheel. By the way, greaseless is excellent for stripping paint and rust off metal, including powdercoat.
Hope this helps.
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