Solid State Power Box STANDARD INSTALLATION

[Guest]

Ok Jim, trying to wrap up my sspb install but have some questions.

I followed your post above except I havent done the headlamp mod just yet. Two things seem off though. My headlight stays on when cranking is that supposed to be right?

The other is the sspb yellow wire that is labeled y/g. If I hook that up to my solonoid trigger wire, nothing happens. If hook my harness y/g to the solonoid trigger and leave your yellow wire unhooked up, it fires up and runs as it should. Where should I be looking to figure out what Did wrong? I dont think thats the way its supposed to work correct?

 

[Guest]

Oh, something else just cropped up. After I turn the key on and the sspb powers on, I turn the key off and the sspb has a faint whine coming out of it and my dash lights are still on but dimmed. It stays that way until I disconnect the w/g wire going to the sspb's white wire. Wierd...

 

[posplayr]

Ok Jim, trying to wrap up my sspb install but have some questions.

I followed your post above except I havent done the headlamp mod just yet. Two things seem off though. My headlight stays on when cranking is that supposed to be right?

The other is the sspb yellow wire that is labeled y/g. If I hook that up to my solenoid trigger wire, nothing happens. If hook my harness y/g to the solenoid trigger and leave your yellow wire unhooked up, it fires up and runs as it should. Where should I be looking to figure out what Did wrong? I dont think thats the way its supposed to work correct?

The Y/G harness wire (output of the start switch) has to go to the solenoid for the starter to be activated. You need to also wire the Yellow Bullet wire from the 10 pin Molex to the SSPB (that is Pin 4). So the Harness Y/G Kill switch wire goes to two places electrically. The solenoid and the SSPB.

To do this connection you can solder the end of the yellow wire to the same place that your Y/G attaches to the solenoid or strip back the wire a little and solder close to the solenoid there.

After the Y/G goes to both then the Engine will crank and the lights will go off.

Jim

 

[posplayr]

Oh, something else just cropped up. After I turn the key on and the sspb powers on, I turn the key off and the sspb has a faint whine coming out of it and my dash lights are still on but dimmed. It stays that way until I disconnect the w/g wire going to the sspb's white wire. Wierd...

First clean up the other Y/G wire connection as described in the post above.

Second: Make sure your kill switch connections are correct. Test to make sure:

With IGN Key on and Kill is OFF the G/W is low.
With IGN Key on and Kill is ON the G/W goes to +12V
The G/W should be off at all other times (i.e. if IGN is Off).

It only whines if there is a short. It is the Pulsing current on and off when the short exists. The RED led should also flash. The only time it doesn't if when you are shorting the SIGNAL circuit as that is what powers the LED's buzzer.

If you are shorting the Switched on Lines 1 and 6 then everything will go off, because it is this power that turns everything on. No way around that.

 

[Guest]

The Y/G harness wire (output of the start switch) has to go to the solenoid for the starter to be activated. You need to also wire the Yellow Bullet wire from the 10 pin Molex to the SSPB (that is Pin 4). So the Harness Y/G Kill switch wire goes to two places electrically. The solenoid and the SSPB.

To do this connection you can solder the end of the yellow wire to the same place that your Y/G attaches to the solenoid or strip back the wire a little and solder close to the solenoid there.

After the Y/G goes to both then the Engine will crank and the lights will go off.

Jim

Ahhh, now I see. That was really making me scratch me head. Thanks.

 

[posplayr]

Ahhh, now I see. That was really making me scratch me head. Thanks.

Thanks for being a Guinea Pig, I'll have to clarify that in the documents. I left things out to avoid bringing in the whole schematic, but perhaps did not make it clear both needed connecting.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, that wasn't clear to me when I read through the install instructions. But overall, I thought you did a real fine job Jim. And now, drum roll please....

Success!

And tomorrow we ride!

Thanks again Jim for all the help. All is working properly including the headlight cut. You da man!

 

[posplayr]

Success!

And tomorrow we ride!

Thanks again Jim for all the help. All is working properly including the headlight cut. You da man!

Glad to hear it.

Now we need to just nudge some of the other slow pokes.

 

[Guest]

Well, truth be told I have been waiting for warmer weather to get after this. You know how wiring is when it's cold. I'm sure now that we are almost done with this years awful winter, you'll be seeing more installs done. BTW, lights in fact do look brighter. Good stuff!

 

[TooManyToys]

...... Now we need to just nudge some of the other slow pokes.

Well, if you'd like to help rebuild a 1775 farmhouse with mortise and tendon timber frame, no nails joinery your welcome to stop by and free up some of my time .

 

[Guest]

ha, slowpokes. you try working in an unheated garage when it is 10 degrees out. I did manage to get the old components unhooked and the plate off last night, i need to figure out some mounting options for my 775. same footprint as the shunt one i took off, yet it doesnt want to fit, somehow. might just trim that right hand connector piece and go with spades, but it is a shame to waste the connector i got from eastern beaver. sci85, looks like your reg is mounted on a plate above the battery? any pics of that around? looks simple enough......

 

[posplayr]

ha, slowpokes. you try working in an unheated garage when it is 10 degrees out. I did manage to get the old components unhooked and the plate off last night, i need to figure out some mounting options for my 775. same footprint as the shunt one i took off, yet it doesnt want to fit, somehow. might just trim that right hand connector piece and go with spades, but it is a shame to waste the connector i got from eastern beaver. sci85, looks like your reg is mounted on a plate above the battery? any pics of that around? looks simple enough......

I'm sorry, I'm laboring in a 75 degree shop (Tucson) :-\\\ I was shocked to see some people on TV riding motorcycles on a frozen lake. Sorry, MY GF said it was sweltering in Santa Barbara in the 80's.

I'm sure you will figure something out but you can also understand why I suggest doing R/R and SSPB at the same time. Space is cramped and doing one without the other may result in having to undo and move the first again to make room for the second.

You want to keep the SSPB and the R/R relatively close together. Try and to not have to extend the wires that were provided.

 

[posplayr]

Well, if you'd like to help rebuild a 1775 farmhouse with mortise and tendon timber frame, no nails joinery your welcome to stop by and free up some of my time .

Sorry about not helping out, but at the moment I'm in the middle of my own little tech revolution at

But with the work that you are doing, it makes you realize how many skills have been developed and lost over the generations of human existence, even if it is all overwhelmed by the current technological/information revolutions.

 

[TooManyToys]

Jim, I agree. These m & t joints are still tight in this post and beam work, and many were recycled from another use. My parents did not have much wealth so since the early 50's there was no major renovations done. It appears in the early 1800's there some rework as the lathe for the plaster shows a change in resawing methods. The analysis shows the plaster is the lime and cattle hair composition along with the local sand. And once the wallpaper is removed they were never painted. This hand builtup plaster is straight and the corners square, better then the current drywall methods. One closed in porch area shows the original posts and interior surface of the white cedar siding is covered with the milk and lime whitewash.

There are something's where you question what were they thinking, but it's made it through all the east coast hurricanes and Nor'easters for a few hundred years and often I find myself sitting back and imagining the work and tools. Which is why I haven't started the bike install I said I would in March.

 

[Guest]

Greg78gs750, I don't have any other pics right now but I will take some more when I get back in town later this week. But basically, I removed the stock OEM lid and fashioned a flat metal plate and used the factory mounting tabs then painted it black. I could do this because I'm running aftermarket K&N's and not using the factory air filter so closing the air box was no big deal. The 775 fits perfectly in that location and since I don't run any accessories, having it in the wind stream was unnecessary.

I haven't seen a 750's air box area but if its similar to my 550 , then there really are not many options. One other I did consider and figured I could probably make fit was on the battery frame but it would require more work.

Good luck!

 

[Guest]

Hey Jim, wondering if you had a video of the headlight bucket connections? I haven't gotten in there yet, and I am pretty sure i have it figured out, just looking for some confirmation.

Also, I found some space on the mounting plate, I am mounting it inboard of the mounting tabs and gaining the 3/4 inch i needed to squeeze the sh-775 in there, so no relocation necessary!

greg

 

[posplayr]

Hey Jim, wondering if you had a video of the headlight bucket connections? I haven't gotten in there yet, and I am pretty sure i have it figured out, just looking for some confirmation.

Also, I found some space on the mounting plate, I am mounting it inboard of the mounting tabs and gaining the 3/4 inch i needed to squeeze the sh-775 in there, so no relocation necessary!

greg

Greg,
I plan on that but, have not pulled my bike back apart. With my fairing it is kind of intricate. You might look at this. It is specific to the 82/83 GS1100E, but there are two elements that are in fact applicable to other models.

1. The wiring of the Kill switch for the Coil relay mod compared to the SSPB Pin 3 wiring.
   
2. Reduction in connections in the O/R and O/G circuits loaded at the same place in the harness.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=218780

Jim

 

[Guest]

Jim, do you expect better transfer of power to the starter after the SSPB install? I noticed that my starter spins a whole lot faster than it ever did before.

 

[posplayr]

Jim, do you expect better transfer of power to the starter after the SSPB install? I noticed that my starter spins a whole lot faster than it ever did before.

It is because your headlamp is cutting out and does not have to deliver those 5 amps to the headlamp.

So that is also give quite a bit of extra reserve to get the starter to spin up quick.

For a big motor you are less likely to have that kick back to the starter and that agonizing SWACK under the stator cover that can happen if the battery is a little low.

 

[Guest]

ok, so i have been working on the sspb install on my 83 gs 1100 es. Few minor differences here, or, one to be specific. The connector to make the headlight bucket connections is not, in fact, in the 'headlight bucket", since there isn't one on the es, but is rather tucked under the tank. Not entirely sure why the little engineers decided to do this, as there is plenty o' room in the fairing, but there it is. Fine, fine, BUT the wires are a bit squirreled away in there, a bit less accessible. Other than these connections, i think i am pretty much all hooked up, if not finalized. Ended up moving my electrical mounting plate inboard of the tabs, no problem since i am running pods and there are no space issues. I need to grok the connections at the "headlight bucket" area, then figure out how to weasel the harness out of the frame tunnel to get access. Will try to post some pics soon.

greg