• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Someone help me out please...

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheCafeKid
  • Start date Start date
ok i performed the bench sync as per instructions..very thorough btw..was pretty easy..Two problems i am seeing now...when i hooked the tank back up and primed the carbs gas poured out of the overflow nozzle on the number two carb..and second...i think part of my poor return is the throttle shaft itself is moving very slowly...do i need to grease it up more? and on the overflow is one of my float valves sticking?? they all seemed to spring back fine when i checked durring disassembly/reassembly...
 
Either you have a bad o-ring under the float seat or the float is sticking.
The float seat pops out and there is an o-ring on it.
 
Ok currently im selling tickets to a "Slap Cafe Upside the Head with a Fish" function...here's some first time noobie $hite right here....so my sticking throttle?? Cos i didnt clean the number four slide barrel well enough..it had *just* enough gummy crap in it to make the slide stick, in turn making them all stay up...i noticed this after takeing the top side of them back apart and pulling the throttle shaft out thinking IT was sticking because i hadnt greased it enough...Im an idiot...now they all slide freely, and they did before i had originally put them together, but admittedly they were still a lil wet with spray cleaner..now as far as the float leak, im not that far but Chef i think you may be right...you are talking about the little red orings right?
 
How much for the ticket?? :-D
My o-ring is black. Not sure if there are red ones. It's under the float needle and seat. Should be a phillip screw holding it in. They should of all been replaced. Did you get the o-ring kit from Mr. Barr and do a cleaning with the Carb cleaning series on this site?
 
chef1366 said:
How much for the ticket?? :-D
My o-ring is black. Not sure if there are red ones. It's under the float needle and seat. Should be a phillip screw holding it in. They should of all been replaced. Did you get the o-ring kit from Mr. Barr and do a cleaning with the Carb cleaning series on this site?
Click to expand...
OHhh no i dont have those at all..just a red round gasket...my carbs if you read that post keith and i have going (Mr Keith Krause please Help!) you'll see my 750B carbs are an odd ball early VM design that they ( id assume) imediately improved upon...for instance the slides are the same but dont use the brass plate between the slide arm and the needle and there are no spacers, the needle fits directly into the slide arm...It had me panicking thinking i had missing parts when i took them apart to clean them Weird..

AT ANY RATE...after finding my flub on the slide valve..i double checked the float seat to make sure i didnt screw anything up..and i did...those little red gaskets have a lip and go on a certain direction..i flipped it and to make doubly sure i switched it from the 2 carb to the 3 and vice versa..no more leaky leaky..yay! Whats more, i hooked the carbs back up..after bench syncing them YET AGAIN...and lo and behold..DRASTIC improvement...i still have a slow return to idle...and i have my fuel screws out 2 and 1/2. I also found ONE of my boot rings is in fact leaking (number one) as i sprayed carb cleaner around it and the engine bogged considerably. Sooo its back to Mr Barr for some orings...and ill try the fuel screws out another 1/2 turn..if thats still too lean it will be time for bigger mains.. i reinstalled the current 115, yeah i know i was told to go bigger, but i figured if i could get it to run right with the ones i have by adjusting the needle great, if not, taking the float bowls off and changing the main jet is no biggie..Ive since become an expert at speedily taking off the carbs and putting them back on...lol Do you guys know of a good place to get those rubber boots or does Robert Barr carry those too??

Thanks again for everyones help...i still need to vaccum synch..but at least im getting somewhere now..THANK GOD :shock:
 
Yowsers those are more spensive than i thought they'd be...next question...all the boots actually feel good, look good and flex well, no cracks or dryness to them...could it just actually be the Oring inside rather than the boot leaking? Im not trying to be cheap here, but if the boots themselves are good and its just the rings leaking id rather not replace the boots yanno?
 
TheCafeKid said:
Yowsers those are more spensive than i thought they'd be...next question...all the boots actually feel good, look good and flex well, no cracks or dryness to them...could it just actually be the Oring inside rather than the boot leaking? Im not trying to be cheap here, but if the boots themselves are good and its just the rings leaking id rather not replace the boots yanno?
Click to expand...

If the boots are flexible and there are no cracks in them and the rubber has not pulled away from the metal flange...it WILL be the o-rings! Had a similar problem with mine and the rings did the trick. 8-[
 
Man thats excellant news. Thanks again guys...being an old GS owner ive found is a roller coaster of emotion. Yesterday i was so upset and bummed out i was considering selling it in favor of building the slightly newer and in better overall (aside from the lack of body work and top end issues) condition 80. I was seriously that frustrated. But i had today off, i spent all of the daylight doing everything that i had read and had been suggested, and while its obviously still got some probs, im getting closer and im elated about it. Whats better to me is that with help from you guys i actually did it myself instead of taking it somewhere (another option that id considered, but fear of them screwing it up worse stopped me) That old bike is so beautiful to me, and while its not stock, come spring it will be one bad a$$ machine. I am however keeping my eye out for a 2v motor in complete condition as i dont know how many miles this one has and it never hurts to have an extra..At any rate, new orings for the manifold are in order, and from there i dunno, but i have faith..so much so that ive taken the CVs off that lil yammie 400 of mine for a more thorough cleaning..that one is SOOO close with my new knowledge i bet i get her goin before the weeks out..THanks again guys..sincerely this is the best forum ive ever been on.

TCK
 
Hope all goes well! There's nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself...nothing like the frustration, either! #-o:twisted: :-D.
 
One of my old 550s running VMs was supersensitive to carb balancing. the bench sync was just about good enough to get it to run but had the same problems as you seem to have - drop the throttle and it seemed to take an age to trickle down to a decent tickover. I checked all the rubbers, valves etc on that old lady but to no improvement - the vacuum sync was the only thing that sorted it - just a few degrees turn on the adjusters made a massive difference to slow run. The only thing I didn't do was replace the jets / needles / slides etc as otherwise she was a fine, quick bike.

I've had several 550s and only one had this supersensitivity issue - maybe yours is the same.

Wally
 
Glad you've stuck with it and things are going better.:)
You can't tune until the intake leak is fixed. Most common reason is the manifold o-ring. Apply some hi-temp bearing grease to the new ones and replace the Phillips screws for the manifolds with Allens and torque to about 6 ft/lb. The stock Phillips screws can strip easily so use an impact tool and a GOOD fitting bit. Slow to return idle is a classic lean/intake symptom.
That slide must have been very corroded/dirty. It takes quite a bit to keep the stock (?) pulley spring from returning the slides.
If the bike is in otherwise good tune, the 115 mains will not be large enough, so 3/4 and above throttle performance will be less than it should be.
Man it's late and I gotta do my annual polish job to be tready for the big ride this Sunday. Takes me all day so I use a vacation day and go at it.
Let us know how things go with the bike.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top