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Sonic Springs alternative

93Bandit

93Bandit

Forum Mentor
Howdy all, I'm on a part-ordering rampage so I decided to add fork rebuild parts to the list.

I recently read a thread somewhere talking about a recent bad experience with Sonic Springs, something about poor communication and a very long wait time. They also mentioned a good alternative to sonic springs in that thread. I cannot find it for the life of me, I've been scouring the forums for quite some time this evening.

Can anyone provide the information I'm looking for? Has Sonic Springs gotten better since then, or should I be looking elsewhere for springs? If so, what brand?

Thanks!
 
I'd give them a try, but on a short leash. Race Tech sells fork springs, and of course, Progressive.
 
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Race Tech in mine. No problems, just account for mid-life weight gain. :culpability:
 
What bike do you want them for? I might have a set of progressive on the shelf. I think they are the 1100 ones but from memory they fit a bunch of models with the 37mm forks just with different spacer lengths.
 
salty_monk said:
What bike do you want them for? I might have a set of progressive on the shelf. I think they are the 1100 ones but from memory they fit a bunch of models with the 37mm forks just with different spacer lengths.
Click to expand...

My 83 GS850GL. It's the only bike I have left.
 
That's a 37mm fork. If you want me to search the shelves let me know. From memory of my analysis of the Progressive spring, when the close wound spring section binds (closes up completely) the rest of the spring equates to about a 50lb straight weight spring (similar to the Sonic recommended spring rate).

One of my ideas was to cut off most of the closely wound section & use a bigger spacer (I've done that successfully with stock springs but that only gets you to about 42-45lb straight rate from memory) but as I'm a lightweight that would probably be too much spring for me.

:)
 
salty_monk said:
That's a 37mm fork. If you want me to search the shelves let me know. From memory of my analysis of the Progressive spring, when the close wound spring section binds (closes up completely) the rest of the spring equates to about a 50lb straight weight spring (similar to the Sonic recommended spring rate).

One of my ideas was to cut off most of the closely wound section & use a bigger spacer (I've done that successfully with stock springs but that only gets you to about 42-45lb straight rate from memory) but as I'm a lightweight that would probably be too much spring for me.

:)
Click to expand...

Thanks for getting back with me. I'd be interested depending on the price.

But, if you will, explain what all that means? I'm a total noob when it comes to spring rates and whatnot. How will the bike ride if I use those springs as is? Will I need to make spacers?

I'm around 200lbs with hopes to be cutting ~20 over the next year.
 
Progressive springs are about right for about 180lb or so in general. You can add extra preload in the beginning and take some out if you get down to target weight.... I think at your weight/target weight you could use a progressive spring "as is" or cut the close wound coils off to make it straight weight.

Basically the progressive one will be softer at the very start of the stroke (once it overcomes the preload & starts moving) and then firm up when those coils bind, effectively turning those coils into more spacer. At this point the other stiffer coils take over. There is a crossover where you get a bit of both but not a huge amount.

A straight weight spring is at it's best when used with cartridge emulators as you can better control the damping. That's a whole different ball of wax... :)
 
salty_monk said:
Progressive springs are about right for about 180lb or so in general. You can add extra preload in the beginning and take some out if you get down to target weight.... I think at your weight/target weight you could use a progressive spring "as is" or cut the close wound coils off to make it straight weight.

Basically the progressive one will be softer at the very start of the stroke (once it overcomes the preload & starts moving) and then firm up when those coils bind, effectively turning those coils into more spacer. At this point the other stiffer coils take over. There is a crossover where you get a bit of both but not a huge amount.

A straight weight spring is at it's best when used with cartridge emulators as you can better control the damping. That's a whole different ball of wax... :)
Click to expand...

OK, so progressive springs are ideal for something that just road trip on, no racing or off roading? If that's the case, sounds like that is what I need.

What's your price, shipped to 48473?
 
I'll have to check I still have them but guessing it'll be about $15 to ship them so in that case how about $65? :)
 
Yep got them. Amazingly still in the progressive box with instructions etc. Part number 11-1106. There are no spacers in the box but ABS schedule 40 pipe works great for that. Cheap and easy to work with. Usually I put a metal washer between the ABS & the spring and another one on top. I used to have a stash but I can't find them. There is one in the box though that will give you an idea what to pick up.

Cheers,

Dan
 
Can the factory spacers be used or does the progressive spring need a longer one? I would like to try using the spring as is, without cutting or precompressing the tight coils.
 
I don't know exactly for your bike. You'd have to compare the stock spring & spacer stack against these ones and make a decision from there. The rule of thumb is the spring should just reach the top of the fork when fully extended. That gives about 3/4" preload when you screw the fork caps on. Then you tune from there. :)

My guess is you'd want a bit extra preload for your current weight. Maybe another 1/2"-1". When you add a lot of preload it's really difficult to screw the fork caps back in.

The progressive springs are 420mm or 16.5" long measuring them in the box. :)
 
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