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special fork tool

  • Thread starter Thread starter Greenbraes
  • Start date Start date
G

Greenbraes

Guest
Guys
I am about to strip the forks on my GS1000EN (79) and see there is a long T bar used in the break down and assembly. All I can find out is it is a bar with a 19mm nut welded to it. Can anyone give me more info/photo/measurements or point me in the right direction so I can make one up before I start to strip things down. Included in the rebuild is a set of progressive springs and I have printed off the instructions tips from BikeCliff's website so there should be no issues there
Cheers for any help

RB:)
 
19MM bolt and some tubing and 5 minutes of welding and your in....Make long leg at least 22 inches.


 
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Or you could just loosen the bolts before you take the forks out of the bike and remove the springs, the spring tension holds the dampers from turning very nicely. Use an air impact, easy as could be.
 
Or you could just loosen the bolts before you take the forks out of the bike and remove the springs, the spring tension holds the dampers from turning very nicely. Use an air impact, easy as could be.

I'll second this for tearing apart and rebuilding based on my experiences. I used the rod with nuts to take my forks apart (not sure how now) but couldn't when re-assembling them. Took TKent's advice, put everything together, hit it with a drill and hex socket and voila...forks back together.
 
Usually yes...but even then theres that one that just refuses for some reason. I slip the tool in and stand on the handle part and ratchet the bolt out easy peazy.
 
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19MM bolt and some tubing and 5 minutes of welding and your in....Make lond leg at least 22 inches.
You are assuming, of course, that EVERYONE has a welder.
noway.gif


The same way that I assume that everyone has a multimeter and knows how to use it. :p

Or carries carb sync tools with them. :eek:



Can't remember who's idea is was but it's on the site of Bikecliff's. A few feet of thread bar with two nuts on either end. One end fits in the bottom of the fork the other end you turn, works like a charm and super cheap.
I am not sure whose idea it was, either, but I have been doing it that way for years.

If your supplier has metric all-thread, get 12mm rod about 60cm long, and fourn nuts to fit.

If your supplier only has standard thread, get 1/2" rod 2 feet long and four nuts to fit.

I was going to post a picture, but it's no better than the one in the link above.

Only hint is to leave a bit of the rod sticking out past the nuts, about 1 inch should do fine. That will help center the tool in the damper rod.


Usually yes...but even then theresn that one that just refuses for some reason. I stil the tool in and stand on the handle part and ratchet the bolt out easy peasy.
Chuck, your spell- and grammar-checker is broken again. :oops:

Give it another whack to tune it back up, eh? :pray:

.
 
thanks guys
I'm in business now, I have access to stud bar so making a tool up will be easy

RB :lol::lol:
 
I used the end of a spark plug socket revered on all the extensions I own.Worked lie a charm.I have quite a few extensions:DThe 1000 forks where the first ones cracking the bottom bolt then doing the rest didn't work.
 
Sleep is needed more than spell check. Eyes get a bit blurry if you only get 5 hrs sleep between 2 10 hr shifts. I will try to do better. I wont go psycho on you..I save that for the ones that come along and make that kinda crass stupid comment.
 
I used the end of a spark plug socket revered on all the extensions I own.Worked lie a charm.I have quite a few extensions:DThe 1000 forks where the first ones cracking the bottom bolt then doing the rest didn't work.

That's what I do...works well...:)
 
Sleep is needed more than spell check. Eyes get a bit blurry if you only get 5 hrs sleep between 2 10 hr shifts. I will try to do better. I wont go psycho on you..I save that for the ones that come along and make that kinda crass stupid comment.


I do it all the time. Sleep is over rated.
You'll get used to it..
 
Or you could just loosen the bolts before you take the forks out of the bike and remove the springs, the spring tension holds the dampers from turning very nicely. Use an air impact, easy as could be.

This is assuming everyone owns an air impact.
I do, but I still use a broom handle.
 
Actually the one I like to use is plastic. Tap it in with a hammer. Works like a charm.
 
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