Sprockets and Chain

[tyhillert91]

Recently my chain has become too loose to tighten with the tensioners. I took off the old chain and the cover for the front sprocket to get the new chain back on. When i took off the cover i noticed the two rods were slightly bent.

To my knowledge this did not happen when i took the cover off. I refitted the cover and it slips on just fine.

Do these rods rotate? i know the one for the gear shift only slightly moves, but the rod for the clutch? i assume that one spins. Should i replace either,or?

Also i haven't bought a new chain yet, i want to know your opinions on if my sprockets are still in good condition.

Yes for the record i did clean them.

And I also plan on cleaning the front sprocket area as well...
Also I'm pretty sure there is a gasket or two in the front sprocket area that needs replacing, since there's so much oil and grease.
A point in the right direction would be a lot of help.


Thank You Fellow Doctors
-T

 

[koolaid_kid]

1) Replace the clutch activation rod. It just slips out.
2) Forget you saw the shifter shaft. It requires splitting the cases to replace.
3) Those sprockets are toast. Replace them along with the chain.
4) All that gunk appears to be from over-enthusiastic lubing of the chain, possibly with the incorrect lubricant.

Get a high quality o-ring or x-ring chain and new sprockets. Use a high quality chain lube or wax, clean and lube it periodically, make sure that your rear wheel is aligned correctly, and ride on.

 

[tyhillert91]

I can pull the clutch rod straight out with a visegrips?

Whats the difference between x-ring and o-ring chain?

Saw a decent deal on ebay both sprockets and chain for a solid hundred... Good deal?

Should I also get some gaskets for the clutch rod? If so from where?


-T

 

[koolaid_kid]

Yes, it slides right out.
An x-ring chain is slightly newer technology and claims to seal a bit better. Since you appear to be trying to save some coin, an o-ring chain will give you the best bang for your buck.
Having said that, do not cheap out on a chain/sprocket set. If the price is cheap, so is the quality. They go hand in hand.
3 things to never cheap out on for your bike: Tires, brakes and chain. If any of these fail you are toast. No marmalade, either.
Go with a known vendor from BassCliff's MegaWelcome list. Z1Enterprises is favored here because of their outstanding customer service and knowledge base. If they are too pricey for you, at least listen to their information and go from there.

There is no gasket needed, but there is a seal around the clutch activation rod. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I would clean everything up and keep an eye on it. If it is indeed leaking, then study how to replace it. It can be done, but it can also be a PITA.

 

[tkent02]

2) Forget you saw the shifter shaft. It requires splitting the cases to replace.

Agreed, don't bother with it if it works, but can't the shifter shift shaft be replaced from the clutch side without splitting the cases?

 

[subid]

Agreed, don't bother with it if it works, but can't the shifter shift shaft be replaced from the clutch side without splitting the cases?

I replaced the shift shaft from the clutch side on my 82 750, but I'm not sure about the 550. One would think it would be a similar situation. Plus, it's a good excuse to replace those worn out clutch springs, and measure the plates.

 

[Guest]

A little info concerning the differences between the "O," "RX" and "XW" ring designs.
http://www.rkexcelamerica.com/street_rk_chain_oring_technical.html

I don't know if you'll find your chain here, but if you do you could save big.
http://www.rkexcelamerica.com/blemished_dirt_atv.html

 

[bwringer]

There are lots of people on various motorcycling forums who have been burned by cheapo eBay chains. Don't go there -- call Z1 and you'll get the best advice and outstanding prices on high-quality chain and sprockets.

From the bent parts, it looks like a chain may have already broken on this bike. Lucky it didn't crack the cases.

The clutch pushrod will just pull out with your fingers, so it would be a good idea to replace it. Just order a new one from Suzuki, or post up in parts wanted for a good used one. It doesn't really spin, but the clutch mechanism pushes on it pretty hard. The bend in the rod may have weakened it, so I wouldn't really trust it.

The shifter shaft can be removed and replaced by removing the clutch cover and clutch on the other side of the engine. (You'll need to be comfortable with removing the clutch and disassembling and reassembling the shift pawl mechanism.) You'd likely need to cut the bent portion of the old shaft off to get it to slide out and slide a new one in. With that said, if it's not leaking and it works, don't mess with it, at least not right away. You'd also need to make sure that the replacement shaft is straight and matches exactly, and that you have a new seal on hand.

 

[koolaid_kid]

There are lots of people on various motorcycling forums who have been burned by cheapo eBay chains. Don't go there -- call Z1 and you'll get the best advice and outstanding prices on high-quality chain and sprockets.

From the bent parts, it looks like a chain may have already broken on this bike. Lucky it didn't crack the cases.

The clutch pushrod will just pull out with your fingers, so it would be a good idea to replace it. Just order a new one from Suzuki, or post up in parts wanted for a good used one. It doesn't really spin, but the clutch mechanism pushes on it pretty hard. The bend in the rod may have weakened it, so I wouldn't really trust it.

The shifter shaft can be removed and replaced by removing the clutch cover and clutch on the other side of the engine. (You'll need to be comfortable with removing the clutch and disassembling and reassembling the shift pawl mechanism.) You'd likely need to cut the bent portion of the old shaft off to get it to slide out and slide a new one in. With that said, if it's not leaking and it works, don't mess with it, at least not right away. You'd also need to make sure that the replacement shaft is straight and matches exactly, and that you have a new seal on hand.

This is what I was referring to. There is no way that shaft will slide all the way out as is. From my experience with that part it is also hardened steel, so it will be fun trying to cut it. Not impossible, to be sure, but not easy either.

 

[tyhillert91]

So I finally got around to getting back to work on the bike.

I cleaned it up

(Looks pretty good i know )

and i started to pull that clutch rod plug out, and pulling that whole rod out, but there's this thing in the way.

I was told that i can just pull out the clutch rod with a visegrips, how do i go about getting this guy out?

 

[tyhillert91]

anyone got anything i can work off here?

 

[gotgixers]

It should pull right out. Nothing holds it in but the cover and actuator.

 

[tyhillert91]

pretty sure that piece that's stuck in there is the actuator... I've tried everything short of breaking it to get it out. It wont budge.

I don't want to split the case because i don't have the time or money to do that while the season is still good.

 

[7981GS]

If you have access to a slide hammer with a drill chuck on it,
it will pop out.
They also rent them for free at several auto parts stores.

Eric

 

[tyhillert91]

As for pulling this rod out, would i be able to pull it out from the clutch side? because i've been trying to pull it out from the sprocket/stator side.

Would that make a difference?

 

[Nessism]

Slide hammer?

I believe the pushrod need to pull out from the clutch side of the engine. With the shaft bent I'm not sure it will pull though without cutting it off though.

And the shift lever shaft will pull out from the clutch side too. I'd replace the bent shaft while you have the clutch out.

 

[tyhillert91]

I was hoping to wait until the season was up to redo the clutch and all that jazz. Ugh...

Well no better time than the present i suppose.