Stage one 82 GS1100E flat spot 5500 to 7500rpm

[Anonymous]

This is the type of info I was looking for I can't beleive that the setups are that different.I will try a 138 equivalent. The trouble is I don't know what actual size the Ebay jets are they just reference 140 120 or so. I will try the 120's first and see what happens. I have been debating on the pods. I will try the Ebay carb (stock) and the new jet setup in my stage 1. my concern is I can realitively quickly swap out carbs with the factory box installed I am not sure how to go between factory box and pods. Might actually not be that big a deal?
Next week when my parts and peices arrive I will begin the testing. In Seattle we are only getting rain so as long as there is no snow I will be screaming down my local streets testing my new top range acceleration.
Ian

 

[pano]

Dynojet kit 3133 for the 82GS1100e comes with parts for the stage1 and stage3 setup. Stage one being stock air box and stage3 being individual pod filters.

The main jets included in the kit are DJ110, DJ114, DJ132, and DJ138. I figured the DJ110 and 114 were for the stage1 setup and the DJ132 and 138's were for the stage3 setup.

So if you keep the stage1 setup the DJ138's may be too big as well.

The best thing to do is call up Dynojet and ask them. If you are not buying a kit but just want info just tell them you did buy one and before you install you want to clarify which jets to use. They are very helpful and want you bike to run well with there product.

 

[Anonymous]

How is your Bike with a stage 3 setup?
Are you able to get smooth power along the whole tach range? After this bike has sat (rarely used for about 12 plus years) for so long I think if it ran like stock again, I would be incredibly happy. Having waited this long I want to see this through. Would you buy the pods and go stage 3? If It is possible to have a stage 3 with out having flat spots, I will do whatever it takes. If there are inevitable flat spots then Stage one is in my future.

 

[pano]

I have no flat spots but it took a little while to get it running right. I had the carbs on and off about a dozen times and taking the carbs on and off is a pain in the a s s ESPECIALLY if your using the stock air box.

I have the K&N individual pods and the 3133 dynojet kit with the needles on the 5th notch from the top with the DJ138's main jets in. It is smooth throughout the whole rpm range in all gears.

A few of us here with the bike and same setup but different exhausts all seem to be on the 5th or 6th notch from the top on the needles. The dynojet instructions tell you to start in the middle of the needle (3 notches from the top) and work from there.

You have to synch the carbs and adjust the carb (?air?) screws. These screws are sealed over and need to be drilled out very gently to access them. Drill slowly with light pressure until you break through, you do not want to catch the screw with the drill and turn it. I believe the tip of the screw has a fine point on it and you do not want to damage it by turning it in too tight.

I don't claim to be an expert on adjusting these screws. Its seems to take a good ear and a little finess to get them right. I have a link somewhere that I read before I adjusted mine. I will look for it. If they are turned more than say 4 turns out the pilot air jets should be increased in size. In fact mine are turned out a little more than desired and mine runs fine. I just recently ordered some larger pilot air jets to see what effect they have. Someone correct me here if I am wrong.

The screws are probably factory set about 2 - 2 1/2 turns out. Make a note of where they each are so you can get back there if you have to. You can do this with the bike off by turning them in gently and then putting them back where they were. Adjust them when the bike is running. Turn them one at a time in slowly and gently until they stop, the bike will bogg then back them out keeping track of where you are with each screw. Listen for and increase in idle. When the idle begins to drop back down turn the screw back in a half turn. Do each for screw. Ajust the carb idle down as required. I will look for the link I used as reference.

Make sure the carbs are clean and the float levels are set to factory specs first then sych the carbs so the bike runs smoother before you adjust the air screws.

Before I went to the individual pods I sent my carbs out for cleaning and installed them to make sure it was running ok.

I am sure stage1 would be fine as if you spend the time to get it right. Don't let me talk you into the stage3 if you don't want it. I live in MA and depending where you are your adjustments may vary somewhat.

By the way, was the bike indoors or outdoors for 12 years? Before I bought my red one in 1984 a co-worker bought the champagne color and I really do like it. Maybe even better than the red.

Did I make any mistakes here? Beuller? anybody?

 

[KGB]

I have a 82 GS1100E, all stock.
Pano's has some mods over mine.
I weigh more than Pano, but he was able to walk away from me at will.
he seems to have his setup pretty close to spot on.
having seen and tried to catch him, I'd say, take his advice
and feel free to ask questions

We're all here to help

This is not meant as a bash on you, by any means.
having seen Pano's bike and ridden with him, his bike runs great
and he's a very good rider.

 

[Jethro]

All seems right to me Pano. I, too am going to order larger pilots. What may I ask has prompted you to do so? Me, I have a slight hesitation on take off, and I am thinking that it could be either that the previous owner didn't drill out the slides (forgot to check when I had the rack out) or the pilots (which are stock 45's) are too small.

 

[pano]

Jethro,

I decided to swap them for a couple reasons, some was what I read from you and Joe Nardy and also from what I have read elsewhere that if the air screws are more than say 4 turns out it is not optimal. One of my screws is about 5 out if I remember correctly the others are around 3 to 3.5 out. I also get a cough once in a while (idleing) before it really warms up and I wonder if it is from that one carb. It is the outside carb on the left side. Once warmed up it idles and runs smooth.

I figured give it a shot and see if it brings the screws back to 2 - 2.5.

I have a set of 89 GSXR slingshot carbs I plan to put on this spring. I got the K&N filters and dynojet kit alreadyand dual feed pingle petcock. I want to see what happens with these carbs.

Keith thanks for the compliment I will take it, but Skip, Luke, Dana, Skip's other buddy and a few other guys are real good riders, I just try to keep up. I found that article about cornering you posted a few weeks back interesting and I think I am gouing to sign up for one of those courses you teach this summer. I find myself slowing down a bit going into corners. I'm careful to stay in my comfort zone while pushing it a little as well.

As far as me pulling away I am only a little guy on a big bike....your a big guy on a big bike

The bottom line is I want to have fun and make it home to kiss the wife and kids when its alll done.

 

[pano]

I could not find the particular link that I used to adjust my carb screws, but I put together a few that I found that had some decent info. Just like anything else there are more ways to skin a cat and likewise different people have there own methods of tuning carbs. I read a lot on line and then used the dynojet instructions and what I read. Here are a few links:

http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/jetting/default.htm

http://www.f6rider.com/VRCC/tech/carb101.htm

http://members.aol.com/ffastcbr/factorycarbtune.htm

http://771doug.netfirms.com/jetkit.html

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/CarbMiscFAQ.htm

http://www.gis.net/~manjo/BUBF_rejetting.htm

 

[nabrams]

Aftermarket pipe, stock airbox - sounds familiar becuase I just went through this (for a 1980 Honda CB750, CV carbs). The bike was running lean above 4500 RPM. In my case, installing larger main jets did the trick. I did NOT change the needles or the air filter. I've seen many people say that when you only change the pipe (to a more freely flowing type) you typically only need to change the main jets to a larger size. How much larger? - I think that's a matter of experimentation.

 

[Anonymous]

First I want to thank everyone for their help!!! :!: I have pods installed, I am useing 120 Minkuni main jets and a stage 3 Dyno kit. I raised the needles to the 5th position (2nd from bottom). What a difference the new main jets made. The old jets I was useing were much smaller and they had "11" on them. They starved my precious engine of the fuel it needed.

The bike pulls hard from 5500 through red line now, idles fine.

I took the stock air box and collector off" what do I do with the vent on the top ( back) of the valve cover? Do I seal it up or is it important to have air flow? :?:

Other question should I go to 138 Dynojet mains do you think the extra 10 size will make a difference?

Thanks again for all your help, this has brought an old friend back after a very long time. 13 years and 3 different (garages) homes and its finally back!

guess I better change my bike info on my signature :lol:

Ian

 

[Joe Nardy]

First I want to thank everyone for their help!!! :!: I have pods installed, I am useing 120 Minkuni main jets and a stage 3 Dyno kit. I raised the needles to the 5th position (2nd from bottom). What a difference the new main jets made. The old jets I was useing were much smaller and they had "11" on them. They starved my precious engine of the fuel it needed.

The bike pulls hard from 5500 through red line now, idles fine.

I took the stock air box and collector off" what do I do with the vent on the top ( back) of the valve cover? Do I seal it up or is it important to have air flow? :?:

Other question should I go to 138 Dynojet mains do you think the extra 10 size will make a difference?

Thanks again for all your help, this has brought an old friend back after a very long time. 13 years and 3 different (garages) homes and its finally back!

guess I better change my bike info on my signature :lol:

Ian

Ian,

It sure is nice when you get it running right! Too bad it took so long, although that probably makes it even sweeter.

You need to leave the crankcase breather open, do not seal it up. Some people run a hose all the way back to the rear seat cowl to vent it superbike style. Some of us vent it back to the battery area and use a filter. Keith Krause came up with a very slick setup that a lot of us have copied (Thanks, Keith!):

I would say to use the Dynojet 138 main jets. Almost everyone with a similar setup uses them. I think it is better to stick with all Dynojet parts. Who knows, it may run even BETTER!

Isn't this an awesome site?

Joe

 

[Mr. Jiggles]

A couple of months ago I tried the 132's on my 1100 (aftermarket exhaust only, stock airbox) with the expectation that if I lowered my needles it might work. No dice. Wasn't even close to running correctly, especially at highway speeds. I've since put in some dynajet 118's and although there is a sight deadspot at 4-5k it has increased power everwhere else. If lowering the needles doesn't cure this slight problem then I'll probably try 116 mains.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Some of us vent it back to the battery area and use a filter. Keith Krause came up with a very slick setup that a lot of us have copied (Thanks, Keith!):

Thanks for the atta-boy Joe! I like this set up better because there's no mess. I also used a piece of re-inforced fuel tubing that's fairly rigid and doesn't allow any "dip" that could allow a blockage of fluid and poor crankcase breathing.
For those interested, I used the dust cover from my Progressive shocks. To seal the "bottom", I cut out a piece of plastic and sealed it with Dap/ Gaskets gasket sealer-100% black silicone. (I tried another general purpose sealant and regular clear silicone, but those both leaked after awhile.) I cut the slot in the reservoir so the K&N filter sits about a 1/4" or so off the bottom, but it really doesn't matter if it sits on the bottom.
For a reservoir, you can probably use a 2 1/2" PVC cap and you won't need to make a bottom. Even a spray paint cap will work if you cut out the insides, though a paint cap is thinner material.
Every once in awhile I just lift up the hose and wipe out any accumulation with a napkin. Quick and clean and out of sight.
PS: I'm a little embarrassed about the dust under the seat. I took this shot right after a good cleaning of the bike, but somehow forgot to do a better job under the seat. I won't let it happen again. :roll:

 

[Joe Nardy]

PS: I'm a little embarrassed about the dust under the seat. I took this shot right after a good cleaning of the bike, but somehow forgot to do a better job under the seat. I won't let it happen again. :roll:

Yeah Keith, that thing is DISGUSTING! How can you stand to even ride it?

I wish the visible parts of my bikes were as clean as the hidden parts on yours!

Joe

 

[Jethro]

Yeah Keith, that thing is DISGUSTING! How can you stand to even ride it?

I agree, you should be ashamed of yourself. If it happens again, the GS police will arrive at your door, and confiscate your bike for an undisclosed amount of time.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Yeah Keith, that thing is DISGUSTING! How can you stand to even ride it?

I don't stand, I sit! :lol: (OK, dumb Monday morning humor.)

I agree, you should be ashamed of yourself. If it happens again, the GS police will arrive at your door, and confiscate your bike for an undisclosed amount of time.

The GS police? 8O ? I can just imagine who would be in that bunch! Nothing but shafties!! :wink: