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stainless line installation

Bert Patterson

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
So, one day in the near future, I dream of having a little time to install front stainless brake lines. I bought the set used quite awhile back from someone and it looks fine.

So, is this a reasonable approach??remove the fluid through the bleeder valve, remove all existing hoses, hook up new hoses, then just start adding fluid and bleeding???.am I missing something? I?m sure I am.
 
buy new washers. maybe clean masters and calipers good. make sure tiny holes in masters are open and free flowing. It is almost just as easy to take entire back caliper and back master off and clean. I just did mine and dont be afraid to waste plenty of fluid trying to flush them if your not taking them off. It is worth the effort to remove the back like I said above and the front calipers and dissemble all of them for a good cleaning and inspection should not add to much more time to project but your choice.
 
Also get a vacuum pump to bleed the lines (suck at the caliepr bleeder); the front can be a BIATCH
 
Remove the front MC & both front calipers (splitter too if you're planning to keep it) and do a proper cleaning. You may be suprised at how much gunk & jelly are in those parts.

I actually clean all the parts in a plastic tub in my kitchen sink (yes, no wife to freak out at my house) using dish soap with a toothbrush, q-tips & small wire to poke through holes. Dry everything well (I use compressed air) and then reassemble with fresh clean DOT 4 brake fluid on the seals to lubricate...

You will most likely not need to replace any inards, but if you do PartShark sells the cheapest OEM re-build kits.

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_select1.asp?

Z1 sells 10 packs of Goodridge 3/8" crush washers cheap too.
 
Not to hijack this thread, but I was in Harbor Freight Tools yesterday to purchase a metric tap set. They have their vacuum pumps including brake bleeding accessories on sale. I think the price was in the low $20 range. They sell on-line if you don't happen to have one near you so no real excuse for not having one.
Don
 
Not to hijack this thread, but I was in Harbor Freight Tools yesterday to purchase a metric tap set. They have their vacuum pumps including brake bleeding accessories on sale. I think the price was in the low $20 range. They sell on-line if you don't happen to have one near you so no real excuse for not having one.
Don

My HF pump quit working after trying to use it a second time. :mad:

People talk about a MightyPump.

I just happened to have a good hand operated vacuum pump I put to service in a pinch. :-\\\
 
Where is the fastest and most cost effective place to get ss brake lines?
 
I use a Mityvac and it is definately worth it. I would also recommend getting new crush washers. If you keep the splitter give it a good cleaning as others have mentioned. While you have the system down maybe get a couple of OEM rebuilt kits while you are at it. If you have not done them before you will be amazed at the junk that comes out of old calipers when you do the seals and dust boots. Here is what mine looked like on the inside before I rebuilt them.

 
Hmmmm....ya know, I have a spare set of front calipers. Maybe I should clean, rebuild, add new pads, etc. at my leisure and have the whole set ready????
 
Threads?

Threads?

When using goodridge with separate line-fittings, do you have to treat the threads before putting them together with anything like teflon or anti-seize?
 
Hmmmm....ya know, I have a spare set of front calipers. Maybe I should clean, rebuild, add new pads, etc. at my leisure and have the whole set ready????

That's a great way to go, it will speed up the final installation. I was going to recommend changing the seals as they get old and hard, but changing all the rubber parts and pistons as necessary is even better.

I found that when you bleed the lines and aren't getting results that leaving it overnight can help.
 
i just took my front 3 lines off and I am going to look into Z1 to see what i will need. First time doing this so i want to make sure i replace most everything that needs to be replaced. Going SS lines.

I may be asking for help but seems like there is some guy in the forum with a how to tutorial.
 
When using goodridge with separate line-fittings, do you have to treat the threads before putting them together with anything like teflon or anti-seize?


With Goodridge or Russell -3 AN type fittings I have never used teflon or anti-seize. No problems here.

I have read some might use a small bit of teflon tape on the bleeder threads when bleeding the brakes.

With -3 AN fittings I found it best to twist the line counter clockwise 1/8 to 1/4 turn when tightening the fitting. It helps keep the line from twisting and looking kinked.



Rebuilding the calipers and masters, or just buy new masters, is a wise decision.

I just finished rebuilding some calipers. I chose to purchase a few sets off the bay, which were pretty cheap on some used ones, given the calipers I pulled off had a good deal of pitting in the seal grooves.

All of them looked like the pic twr1776 posted, or worse.
 
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