• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Installing SS Brake Lines, What angles?

danny01975

Forum Mentor
Super Site Supporter
Past Site Supporter
I am looking at installing SS brake lines on my 82 GS1100. Currently has stock setup. I was going to go with the ones from Z1, but I'm not sure of which banjo fittings to go with. Anyone else here already replace theirs with ones from Z1 and can let me know the lengths and fittings used?

Measuring the length is no big deal. I'm just not sure how to determine the correct angle on the fittings. So, if nothing else, just the fitting angles would be super helpful!
 
I am looking at installing SS brake lines on my 82 GS1100. Currently has stock setup. I was going to go with the ones from Z1, but I'm not sure of which banjo fittings to go with. Anyone else here already replace theirs with ones from Z1 and can let me know the lengths and fittings used?

Measuring the length is no big deal. I'm just not sure how to determine the correct angle on the fittings. So, if nothing else, just the fitting angles would be super helpful!

When I ordered a set of Spiegler lines for my 850G I called and spoke with the sales person. It's been several years and I forgot who sold them. Anyway they knew the lengths and angles.

As a crude tool there's a protractor app on my phone that will work to determine angles based on the position of the phone. Maybe hold the banjo bolt level and use the edge of the phone for reference.
 
Match the angles you have now. Most will be straight (0*) or slight bend (20*).

Check parts fiche here -

https://www.adeptpowersports.com/oem-parts/1982-suzuki-gs1100e-es.html

That's the problem I'm having now. I don't have a way to match the angles and there are 8 different ones to choose from. While still useful, the parts fiches don't show the angles or banjo connectors individually. Burque73 below recommended a protractor app which may get me close enough to determine what I need.
 
They are all going to be a straight bend. Either a 0* (straight) or 20* (Slight bend). I don't think you would have any that are 45* bend - these should be pretty easy to eyeball if you do.
 
Last edited:
Consider a double banjo bolt at the right caliper with a loop over the top of the fender & eliminating the splitter block under the triple tree. It's a cheaper option and simple with the angles needed if you don't care about originality.

Note that you can also fit the twinpot calipers and CBR rotors to that bike if it's performance you are after. :)
 
Pic 1: Bike 1, stock MC and calipers. 20 degree bend at the MC, no bend at the calipers (pic came out fuzzy so not posted but they are just stock calipers), uses stock splitter.

Pic 2: Bike 2, CBR caliper system with stock MC. Uses a double banjo with two separate lines all the way, done by previous owner. Funky dirty white cloth covered lines that I painted gray, meh.

Pic 3: the CBR brakes. I just bled the system today, last thing on a full GS1100E assembly (well, no motor work). Special brackets and spacers to move discs out, no idea where they originated, might be tricky to find. Will find out how they work soon.

nA9PaF8.jpg


bO6pYuW.jpg


C2sCXub.jpg
 
They are all going to be a straight bend. Either a 0* (straight) or 20* (Slight bend). I don't think you would have any that are 45* bend - these should be pretty easy to eyeball if you do.

I did some quick measuring with a protractor tool on my phone and came out to 23 degrees. So 20 is probably right. And the others were straight, as you suggested.
 
Pic 2: Bike 2, CBR caliper system with stock MC. Uses a double banjo with two separate lines all the way, done by previous owner. Funky dirty white cloth covered lines that I painted gray, meh.

/QUOTE]

Thanks for the pics! That helps allot! I saw suggestions for running two lines from the MC directly to the calipers. Is that better / worse than doing what salty_monk suggested, running one line to the right caliper, then a loop over to the left? Also, is there an advantage to eliminating the splitter block and running two lines instead?
 
Pic 2: Bike 2, CBR caliper system with stock MC. Uses a double banjo with two separate lines all the way, done by previous owner. Funky dirty white cloth covered lines that I painted gray, meh.

/QUOTE]

Thanks for the pics! That helps allot! I saw suggestions for running two lines from the MC directly to the calipers. Is that better / worse than doing what salty_monk suggested, running one line to the right caliper, then a loop over to the left? Also, is there an advantage to eliminating the splitter block and running two lines instead?

Glad to be of service.

I think if you are building the lines yourself, which I've done with Earl's, then salty's way would be fine. Personally I'd do a single line to the splitter like stock, and then separate lines. It keeps all the routing simple and clean. I don't know why the PO did the two separate lines but I'm to lazy and cheap to change it, as it works.

There's tutorials on here about building your own. But it takes time. If you buy a kit, it should just fit and be easy, from MC to splitter and then down to calipers. Probably easiest and cleanest IMO.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top