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Stainless Steel Bolt broken off in carb need help to remove.

  • Thread starter Thread starter NOS
  • Start date Start date
N

NOS

Guest
You've been given good direction on how to remove the broken bolt that isn't harming anything. Follow the directions it will work. I'd be afraid to even try to help you out with the vitriolic spewing you've done in your other "Help Me, come to my birthday party" thread. You don't know how to appreciate good, free help, you even seemed happy about how well your bike was running, for a fleeting moment. I could understand the rage and all if you'd just paid Chef $100.00 or more for the job he did for free, but there's absolutely no logic to your raging. I hope your "friends" are treated better, or do you buy them all?
P3260160.JPG
 
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It looks like there's enough of the bolt protruding that you can either slot it or just grab it with a vice grips and turn it out

If nothing else, use some heat on the carb body to break any seal between the aluminum body and bolt
 
Big T said:
It looks like there's enough of the bolt protruding that you can either slot it or just grab it with a vice grips and turn it out

If nothing else, use some heat on the carb body to break any seal between the aluminum body and bolt
Click to expand...

Thanks im taking it apart right now i have some large vises im going to try grab it and twist the body after i soak it for a while and then heat up the body with my torch.
 
NOS said:
Thanks im taking it apart right now i have some large vises im going to try grab it and twist the body after i soak it for a while and then heat up the body with my torch.
Click to expand...

Don't use the torch, you may damage something. Just remove that gang bar and most likely the screw will unscrew with your fingers. If not, use the vice grips. If not that, dremmel a slot and use a screw driver. Should be an easy fix.
 
There's a guy down there named Chef that would be happy to do this little chore for you.
 
tkent02 said:
There's a guy down there named Chef that would be happy to do this little chore for you.
Click to expand...

Another tip: Don't tighten down any of those rail mounting screws until they are all in place with the head sticking out, then drawn them each down flush, then go back and tighten.

They are meant to hold the carbs at very specific dimensions, sometimes requiring some flexing of the carb bodies to get it all to line up.
 
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You've been given good direction on how to remove the broken bolt that isn't harming anything. Follow the directions it will work. I'd be afraid to even try to help you out with the vitriolic spewing you've done in your other "Help Me, come to my birthday party" thread. You don't know how to appreciate good, free help, you even seemed happy about how well your bike was running, for a fleeting moment. I could understand the rage and all if you'd just paid Chef $100.00 or more for the job he did for free, but there's absolutely no logic to your raging. I hope your "friends" are treated better, or do you buy them all?
 
NOS said:
Do what? Break a bolt in my carb? He already did that.
Click to expand...


In fairness was it not the person who installed the cheap stainless fastener without anti-seize who broke the bolt?

Take the plate off and slot it. It may even spin out freely with your fingers now that the tension has been released on the threads.
 
I had thought of the head shearing off due to pressure when it was under load. I have seen this in other applications as well as in carbs on bikes.

The vibration alone could have done this. I do not know about the grade of stainless bolt used but better to pop the head off then pull out the threads.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
In fairness was it not the person who installed the cheap stainless fastener without anti-seize who broke the bolt?

Take the plate off and slot it. It may even spin out freely with your fingers now that the tension has been released on the threads.
Click to expand...


Another tip: Don't tighten down any of those rail mounting screws until they are all in place with the head sticking out, then drawn them each down flush, then go back and tighten.

They are meant to hold the carbs at very specific dimensions, sometimes requiring some flexing of the carb bodies to get it all to line up.
 
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If the bolt has only just been put in it'll come out easily. You might even be able to use a flathead on it as it is without getting the dremel out.

I suggest that you find a better bolt to replace it with (and maybe the others). There's recent thread on here about the strength of SS bolts and that one must be weaker than the ones I've seen made out of dough. A decent SS bolt in there wouldn't have snapped - it would have comfortably stripped the threads off the carb first.
 
NOS said:
Thanks, ill try and do that, im just trying to repair the damage another forum member did to my bike when he installed the bolt without anti seaze and broke it.
Click to expand...
Simply not putting anit-sieze on a bolt is not going to cause it to break. :-\\\

Can't tell you how many times I have put stainless (and other new) bolts in the carbs, have not had any problems. One question that I have, though, is ... were the bolts the proper length? You said you got them at the hardware store, not at a place that sold them with that particular application in mind. If they ere too long and hit the bottom of the hole before clamping on the rail, I might see it snapping unexpectedly, but even though Chef is not a scrqny guy, I believe he has more finesse than that.

It also helps if you run a tap into all the holes between the time they come out of the dip and the time the screws go in. Cleans out the threads to make sure there isn't something in there to bugger it up.

.
 
Use your degree and some common sense and it will come out.

I mean it takes all of 30 seconds to do yet you've been posting negative **** in your other thread and been on this one for HOURS.

Btw, turning it to the left.. is loosening it..

If you haven't even bothered pulling the plate off well.. fail.

Why don't you put a picture of the plate off so we can chuckle at it.
 
I wouldn't blame the lack of anti seize either. Your'e in sunny climes compared to over here (though we're having sun at the moment..!!!) and 99.9% of the time people don't use copperslip but those things don't snap. And the government salts our roads = weld those bolts in even more.

Don't use an Eazi out / easy out or whatever the local brand name is. It'll snap and then you can't drill or tap the thing as it's hardened steel. Easy outs should be banned.

Mole grips will be better than a vice. Or small stilsons. If you've got any part
 
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Bloke in that shop is spinning you one. Nobody uses stainless in racing. You use stainless to stop things tarnishing and that's it. That's an M6 bolt - if that snapped before stripping the threads in the alloy of the carbs then those bolts are crap with a capital K - no question. Even Screwfix sell better M6 bolts than that and I can get 50 of that size for about ?1. You're being done over.

I wouldn't blame the lack of anti seize either. Your'e in sunny climes compared to over here (though we're having sun at the moment..!!!) and 99.9% of the time people don't use copperslip but those things don't snap. And the government salts our roads = weld those bolts in even more.

Don't use an Eazi out / easy out or whatever the local brand name is. It'll snap and then you can't drill or tap the thing as it's hardened steel. Easy outs should be banned.

Mole grips will be better than a vice. Or small stilsons. If you've got any part of that bolt sticking out it's a cinch.
 
Zeke, you are a machinist? Really? And......you didn't know what an EASY OUT is?!! Go get the easy out & use it. Let us know how THAT works out for you!
 
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