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Stainless Steel Bolt broken off in carb need help to remove.

  • Thread starter Thread starter NOS
  • Start date Start date
Easy out on stainless = fail.

Stainless is brittle, its not soft. Youre gonna end up breaking the easy out off in the hole you drill into the bolt, or make a mashery of whats left to grab already.

DO NOT put a torch to it. That thing had gas in it just yesterday. :rolleyes: Plus unless youre carefull with the torch or break the whole carb down, YOU'RE likely to melt something inside.

Do you own a Dremmel? or a pair of Vice Grips? If ya do, cut a slot in the shank with the Dremmel, a deep one, to get good purchase on it with a flat head screw driver. If not, and you have Vice Grips, clamp those bastards down tight and turn it. You might have to use a bit of sack. But it cant possibly be THAT stuck. The threads in the alu will give out soon enough. Then you can tap it.....provided you know how to do that, and own a tap kit..
 
hampshirehog said:
Bloke in that shop is spinning you one. Nobody uses stainless in racing. You use stainless to stop things tarnishing and that's it. That's an M6 bolt - if that snapped before stripping the threads in the alloy of the carbs then those bolts are crap with a capital K - no question. Even Screwfix sell better M6 bolts than that and I can get 50 of that size for about ?1. You're being done over.

I wouldn't blame the lack of anti seize either. Your'e in sunny climes compared to over here (though we're having sun at the moment..!!!) and 99.9% of the time people don't use copperslip but those things don't snap. And the government salts our roads = weld those bolts in even more.

Don't use an Eazi out / easy out or whatever the local brand name is. It'll snap and then you can't drill or tap the thing as it's hardened steel. Easy outs should be banned.

Mole grips will be better than a vice. Or small stilsons. If you've got any part of that bolt sticking out it's a cinch.
Click to expand...
that size for about ?1. You're being done over.

I wouldn't blame the lack of anti seize either. Your'e in sunny climes compared to over here (though we're having sun at the moment..!!!) and 99.9% of the time people don't use copperslip but those things don't snap. And the government salts our roads = weld those bolts in even more.

Don't use an Eazi out / easy out or whatever the local brand name is. It'll snap and then you can't drill or tap the thing as it's hardened steel. Easy outs should be banned.

Mole grips will be better than a vice. Or small stilsons. If you've got any part
 
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Allright, you're a machinist, so you should be able to get it. (And if you're careful, you won't even have to strip the rack)
Set up the carbs on a milling machine & center the spindle over the broken screw. If your eyes are good, you can get it within .005-.010 thou.
Start with a .125" carbide endmill, (I like to use a 4 fluter) and machine straight down through the body of the screw. DON'T cut too deep, you don't want to machine into the carb body if you can help it.
Switch to a drill chuck & step up by progressively larger drill sizes until you reach the minor diameter of the thread. (On a 6 x 1mm screw the minor is 5mm, .196 thou. Might be a few thou more or less, depending on the manufacturing tolerances of the screw.)
You should end up with a nice little stainless coil the you can pull out like a spring.
Clean up the threads with a tap, and you're done.
If you screw the pooch, at least you got the broken screw out. At that point, you can install a Helicoil and away you go.
 
Anti seize, or lack of it, has got nothing to with the bolt snapping. Anti seize (we call it copperslip) has only one purpose - to prevent the stainless steel welding itself to the aluminium as moisture / air seeps down the threads over time. And we're usually talking weeks / months here for any of this to happen. I forget the chemistry but it's an electrolytic reaction that takes place and it's sloooow. If that bolt went in during the last month the lack of copperslip is completely irrelevant.

303 stainless has a tensile strength of about 90k psi. If those bolts were 303 then as sure as eggs is eggs you would have stripped the alloy - by a country mile. The threads in the alloy are fine so your bolts must be made out of Swiss cheese. Perfect for small stilsons to grab hold of.
 
Greg B said:
Allright, you're a machinist, so you should be able to get it. (And if you're careful, you won't even have to strip the rack)
Set up the carbs on a milling machine & center the spindle over the broken screw. If your eyes are good, you can get it within .005-.010 thou.
Start with a .125" carbide endmill, (I like to use a 4 fluter) and machine straight down through the body of the screw. DON'T cut too deep, you don't want to machine into the carb body if you can help it.
Switch to a drill chuck & step up by progressively larger drill sizes until you reach the minor diameter of the thread. (On a 6 x 1mm screw the minor is 5mm, .196 thou. Might be a few thou more or less, depending on the manufacturing tolerances of the screw.)
You should end up with a nice little stainless coil the you can pull out like a spring.
Clean up the threads with a tap, and you're done.
If you screw the pooch, at least you got the broken screw out. At that point, you can install a Helicoil and away you go.
Click to expand...


Switch to a drill chuck & step up by progressively larger drill sizes until you reach the minor diameter of the thread. (On a 6 x 1mm screw the minor is 5mm, .196 thou. Might be a few thou more or less, depending on the manufacturing tolerances of the screw.)
You should end up with a nice little stainless coil the you can pull out like a spring.
Clean up the threads with a tap, and you're done.
If you screw the pooch, at least you got the broken screw out
 
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Do you have the other 7 bolts out yet and the bracket off the carbs? That picture you showed clearly indicates that once you do that, you can grab onto the bolt with a pair of vise grips and turn it out.

I'm wondering why it's taken you all day to get it out?
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Do you have the other 7 bolts out yet and the bracket off the carbs? That picture you showed clearly indicates that once you do that, you can grab onto the bolt with a pair of vise grips and turn it out.

I'm wondering why it's taken you all day to get it out?
Click to expand...

That's why I mentioned yet an updated picture with it off.
 
Krunk_Kracker said:
Interesting to see this drama across multiple threads, lol.
Click to expand...

Sorry NOS, I've just realised where this other thread is. Are you mad? That bunch of herberts that you had come round your house on your birthday aren't going to turn you over. They're all as sound as a pound so you've just crapped on your own parsley. Takes all sorts I s'pose.....:confused:
 
NOS said:
Thanks im taking it apart right now i have some large vises im going to try grab it and twist the body after i soak it for a while and then heat up the body with my torch.
Click to expand...

See? You're asking for help and you already had the answer. The torch is the first tool I would have thought of too. Not any pansy torch either, get yourself a proper oxy-acetylene setup and get that sucker a nice cherry red to break the bond between the aluminum and stainless. Once it's red hot, it will come out with your fingertips, sure as there's sh#t in a goose. Make sure the float bowls are full though, you will need it to provide a bit of heat sinking. Better yet, have a full tank of gas on it and do it in-situ. A full gas tank is an excellent reflector of radiant heat, and will reflect all those wasted BTU's back to where they will do the most good. Don't pussy out! This is a man's bike and requires manly techniques to get it back ship-shape. You obviously had the GSR B-team working on it, now take some advice that you can take to the bank and heat that whore up good and hot! Don't thank me, it's the kind of friendly advice we like to share gratis here at the GS Resources.
 
Roger P. said:
See? You're asking for help and you already had the answer. The torch is the first tool I would have thought of too. Not any pansy torch either, get yourself a proper oxy-acetylene setup and get that sucker a nice cherry red to break the bond between the aluminum and stainless. Once it's red hot, it will come out with your fingertips, sure as there's sh#t in a goose. Make sure the float bowls are full though, you will need it to provide a bit of heat sinking. Better yet, have a full tank of gas on it and do it in-situ. A full gas tank is an excellent reflector of radiant heat, and will reflect all those wasted BTU's back to where they will do the most good. Don't pussy out! This is a man's bike and requires manly techniques to get it back ship-shape. You obviously had the GSR B-team working on it, now take some advice that you can take to the bank and heat that whore up good and hot! Don't thank me, it's the kind of friendly advice we like to share gratis here at the GS Resources.
Click to expand...

I had to read this about three times to make sure of your meaning. That's funny :rolleyes:
 
If the screw has galled in the aluminum carb body, it needs to be machined out.
Call up Q&E on Kraemer. I'm sure they can fix you up.
(714)630-5720
 
NOS said:
Thanks, ill try and do that, im just trying to repair the damage another forum member did to my bike when he installed the bolt without anti seaze and broke it.
Click to expand...


Dude seriously no one did this! It is a normal happenstance and you need to accept that!

I would love to have those guys come to my house and work for me.
They were giving about 400 bucks an hour worth of normal shop time.

I cannot believe you do not see this.

A lot of old bikes pop a screw or two it ain't no thang!

As fro the SS you can see from the pic that they are the common chinese made crap with a poorly machined head. This allows a hex key to wobble and that leads to uneven loading and increases risk of breakage. Ask anyone who ever had to lever off a lug nut that was put in place by an air-ratchet. You have no chance of removing the fastener but due to the angle of the tire iron will snap the stud. it is just the way forces move through different planes.

Speaking of planes. The guy who said leave it as is most likley is correct.
What number defines a plane? 3!!! is what
not ever a need for a fourth screw its all there for pretty redundancy.

Backpeddle a bit on this you are so clearly over reacting.
I disrespect a few guys on here but I would never be so hurtful and inappropriate to ones who acted in such a spirit of friendship.

In spite if everyone on here who disagrees with me being wrong about all notions past present and future.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
Dude seriously no one did this! It is a normal happenstance and you need to accept that!

I would love to have those guys come to my house and work for me.
They were giving about 400 bucks an hour worth of normal shop time.

I cannot believe you do not see this.

A lot of old bikes pop a screw or two it ain't no thang!

As fro the SS you can see from the pic that they are the common chinese made crap with a poorly machined head. This allows a hex key to wobble and that leads to uneven loading and increases risk of breakage. Ask anyone who ever had to lever off a lug nut that was put in place by an air-ratchet. You have no chance of removing the fastener but due to the angle of the tire iron will snap the stud. it is just the way forces move through different planes.

Speaking of planes. The guy who said leave it as is most likley is correct.
What number defines a plane? 3!!! is what
not ever a need for a fourth screw its all there for pretty redundancy.

Backpeddle a bit on this you are so clearly over reacting.
I disrespect a few guys on here but I would never be so hurtful and inappropriate to ones who acted in such a spirit of friendship.

In spite if everyone on here who disagrees with me being wrong about all notions past present and future.
Click to expand...


an hour worth of normal shop time.

I cannot believe you do not see this.

A lot of old bikes pop a screw or two it ain't no thang!

As fro the SS you can see from the pic that they are the common chinese made crap with a poorly machined head. This allows a hex key to wobble and that leads to uneven loading and increases risk of breakage. Ask anyone who ever had to lever off a lug nut that was put in place by an air-ratchet. You have no chance of removing the fastener but due to the angle of the tire iron will snap the stud. it is just the way forces move through different planes.

Speaking of planes. The guy who said leave it as is most likley is correct.
What number defines a plane? 3!!! is what
 
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NOS said:
These guys snapped a brand new bolt putting it in and no anti seaze. Then didnt even tell me about it, i found it the next day snapped off. It was probably cranked to the high heavens, its not comming out with vise grips or the huge vise i have. I guess i have no other option than to notch it.
Click to expand...


How in the bloody name of god do you parlay snapping a bolt to a stripped or cross-threade hole?

The notion that a torn up hole would be able to keep its threads in place sufficiently well to allow a head to snap off a fasterner is silly.

If anything the threads would have likely stripped out. Do you realize what you claim is counter-intuitive.

Oh wait has anyone here popped a fastener that was in a compromised set of threads? In aluminum alloy no less.
Not low-buck sort of SS from China that you would not use to fix a door on a ****house.

BAH! NOS man you are in need of some serious humility.

You are being bloody silly. STOP!
 
NOS said:
Chef already admitted in the thread that he did it why dont you mind your own business if you werent even there. Chef broke the bolt off putting the bolt in and didnt even bother to tell me. Probably hoping it would just go un noticed. But the fact is that all my threads in my carbs are destroyed, i cant even get the screws back in after i took them out, the fit is so tight i will probably snap some screws just putting my carbs back together, i have to buy some taps and try and tap out all the threads. Chef put in the long bolts instead of the short ones and cranked down on them all.
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OK NOS seriously I would never counsel someone to do themselves an injury but.

BUT CUT YOUR AIRY HEAD OFF AND STAND ON IT.
No doubt it will collapse as do all your arguements. leaving you a say late, and a collar short.
 
I think you are making up stuff here. What reason would these guys have to not put jets in correctly, INTENTIONALLY break bolts, etc? There is not a single person on this forum that wants to see another hurt on a bike. Heck, why did you even take the carbs back off in the first place? Why did you ride it when they were there if you didn't like their workmanship? Why is it you weren't outside helping along with everyone else throughout the ENTIRE day? If it was my bike, I'd be fighting to be doing some of it just so I can learn.

Talk about looking a gift horse in the mouth.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
How in the bloody name of god do you parlay snapping a bolt to a stripped or cross-threade hole?

The notion that a torn up hole would be able to keep its threads in place sufficiently well to allow a head to snap off a fasterner is silly.

If anything the threads would have likely stripped out. Do you realize what you claim is counter-intuitive.

Oh wait has anyone here popped a fastener that was in a compromised set of threads? In aluminum alloy no less.
Not low-buck sort of SS from China that you would not use to fix a door on a ****house.

BAH! NOS man you are in need of some serious humility.

You are being bloody silly. STOP!
Click to expand...

Stop making excuses, you are pathetic.
 
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