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Starter Clutch not ingaging on GS1100!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 82GS1100e
  • Start date Start date
8

82GS1100e

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My 82 GS1100gk will not start. the starter motor will turn over but the actuall engine will not. Im thinkin the starter clutch is not engagin to the crank. But other than that i have no idea. Any info will be great thanks
 
Seems you have already figured it out for yourself. Pull the cover & take a look.
 
I had that problem

I had that problem

1980 GS1000 I didn't have the bolt torqed down that screws into the end of the crank. It holds on that bell looking thing with the magnets the stator goes into. The starter would spin but not engadge and turn the engine. After the bolt was cranked down to spec. No more problem.
 
thanks alot of the info i torqued down the bolt and it is still slippin. Like sometimes the clutch will grab just for a split second and then let go. So im goin to pull of the rotor assembly. Any info on how to get that assembly off after the bolt has been takin off
 
82GS1100e said:
thanks alot of the info i torqued down the bolt and it is still slippin. Like sometimes the clutch will grab just for a split second and then let go. So im goin to pull of the rotor assembly. Any info on how to get that assembly off after the bolt has been takin off
Click to expand...
The use of a proper puller (check your service manual for particulars on your bike) is MANDTORY.

Whatever you do, DO NOT HIT THE ROTOR WITH A HAMMER, you WILL damage it beyond any hope of repair. :eek:

.
 
thanks for the info do u know where i can get one of those. or can i just use a pulley puller like for a car to get it off.
 
Different Suzuki models use different pullers. Look in your manual to see what your bike needs.

In most cases, a typical automotive pulley puller will not work.

.
 
Just looking into this for my own interest.

82 GK starter clutch (starter motor itself not shown)

55.gif
 
Last edited:
Steve said:
Different Suzuki models use different pullers. Look in your manual to see what your bike needs.

In most cases, a typical automotive pulley puller will not work.

.
Click to expand...

When I first read that I thought I saw,

"Different Suzuki Models use different PLYERS" :lol: (reference other thread)
 
If the rotor is spinning you won't need a puller unless of course the starter clutch itself is fraggled.
 
+1 What Steve said. An impact gun will make your life a LOT easier when removing and installing your new clutch. This is one area that I can say from experience, just bite the bullet and buy a new unit. If it's a starter clutch, your bolts most likely have sheared and one or more of the rollers is probably scored.You can buy a kit to replace the rollers and springs, etc etc and you will be taking it apart again to put the new assembly in. How do I know this??? By doing mine twice with the kits :oops:
 
thanks bro for the info. Were would i be able to buy a kit. Do u know of any websites that u would prefer?
 
Can_O_Tuna said:
+1 What Steve said. An impact gun will make your life a LOT easier when removing and installing your new clutch. This is one area that I can say from experience, just bite the bullet and buy a new unit. If it's a starter clutch, your bolts most likely have sheared and one or more of the rollers is probably scored.You can buy a kit to replace the rollers and springs, etc etc and you will be taking it apart again to put the new assembly in. How do I know this??? By doing mine twice with the kits :oops:
Click to expand...

The kit will not do much good if the main roller area on the big gear is warn. I just replace the whole starter clutch as a unit (#4 in the diagram).
 
chef1366 said:
If the rotor is spinning you won't need a puller unless of course the starter clutch itself is fraggled.
Click to expand...

He says from experience!!!

If it hasn't destructed itself, you can clean up the shaft and rotor interior and bolt it back on. Both Chef and Kent had theirs go bad on the same day at the Shasta rally. They fixed them roadside, then did a better repair back at camp.

Be sure to torque it back on correctly!!

Watch out for the idler gear washers when you pull the cover off. I recommend putting the bike in gear and leaning it against a wall so the left side is up and pull the cover.
 
Suzuki GS 750 with similar problem

Suzuki GS 750 with similar problem

When I crank the starter it sounds good but the engine does not turn. I took of the starter cover case and found that the alternator rotor and the gear on the crank shaft are turning like they should but the engine and other end of the crank shaft are not. I was able to take the bolt on the end of the crankshaft, which holds on the rotor/starter clutch assembly, simply by using a wrench and the resistance of the cylinders in the engine which I did not disassemble. It loosened really easily. Then I pulled gently on the rotor/starter clutch assembly with my hands and it popped right off. Inspecting the inside of the assembly and the end of crankshaft the mettle looks twisted on the surface like the assembly has been slipping around scaring both its insides and the shaft. I am wondering if I should just try and reinstall it and tighten the bolt down to spec and see if it works. Can I do this holding the other side of the crankshaft with a wrench? Should I try to smooth out the metal with sand paper or a file?
I appreciate any advice from those of you who have done this before.
I am guessing this happened when I did a lot of cranking trying to start the engine in the cold of the winter. I am wondering if there is not something else going on in the engine that caused enough resistance to make the assembly slip on the shaft. The engine seems to turn alright when I use a wrench on bolt on the other end of the shaft so I am hopping it is good. Still last time I road it the engine was skipping and firing intimately at high rpms and then shutting off. I was hoping it was just the cold or the carburetor but I may have a bigger problem with this being just a symptom but I will try and trouble shoot that after I get the starter spinning the engine again.
 
Any updates? I just got the 'spins' today!! (had starter clutch replaced 15 months ago)
I'm down for fixing this meself.
grrrrrrr

jon said:
When I crank the starter it sounds good but the engine does not turn. I took of the starter cover case and found that the alternator rotor and the gear on the crank shaft are turning like they should but the engine and other end of the crank shaft are not. I was able to take the bolt on the end of the crankshaft, which holds on the rotor/starter clutch assembly, simply by using a wrench and the resistance of the cylinders in the engine which I did not disassemble. It loosened really easily. Then I pulled gently on the rotor/starter clutch assembly with my hands and it popped right off. Inspecting the inside of the assembly and the end of crankshaft the mettle looks twisted on the surface like the assembly has been slipping around scaring both its insides and the shaft. I am wondering if I should just try and reinstall it and tighten the bolt down to spec and see if it works. Can I do this holding the other side of the crankshaft with a wrench? Should I try to smooth out the metal with sand paper or a file?
I appreciate any advice from those of you who have done this before.
I am guessing this happened when I did a lot of cranking trying to start the engine in the cold of the winter. I am wondering if there is not something else going on in the engine that caused enough resistance to make the assembly slip on the shaft. The engine seems to turn alright when I use a wrench on bolt on the other end of the shaft so I am hopping it is good. Still last time I road it the engine was skipping and firing intimately at high rpms and then shutting off. I was hoping it was just the cold or the carburetor but I may have a bigger problem with this being just a symptom but I will try and trouble shoot that after I get the starter spinning the engine again.
Click to expand...
 
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