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Starter motor removal technique - GS1000

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Is it necessary to remove the LHS crankcase cover in order to remove the starter motor? the OEM workshop manual is fairly vague about it. I'll do it if required, but I'm actually concerned about the fragility of the insulation on the stator wiring leads.

And if I leave the cover in situ, will the starter idler gear, etc fall out of place? And when re-installing the starter motor, would the starter motor splines easily line up with the splines on the idler gear?

Thanks in advance.
 
Take the positive lead off the battery. Then remove the starter cover. Take the nut off that holds the cable to the starter post. Take out the two bolts at the rear of the starter. Use a flat tip screw driver and get between the front of the starter and the engine and gently pry the starter to the rear as you wiggle it and pull it out. May be a tad tight as the oring can get stuck a little bit tom the housing.

You can make new cables very easily with cable and ends from the auto parts store.
 
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Long as you dont take off the stator cover nothing will fall out. And when reinstalling you may have to move the starter shaft a little to get the splines lined up. Dont take the crankcase cover off..just the top cover thats over the starter.
 
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As Chuck has described, theoretically you don't have to remove the LHS cover to get the starter out. And apparently you don't have to remove the carburetors either but it is a BIATCH to remove the starter with the carburetors installed. Now if you have an airbox, then maybe giving it a go without removing the carbs is worth a try.

WRT to the LHS cover, just make sure you pre grease the o'ring around the neck of the starter and use a new Oring. Those things can leak and I have had them get cut in the process of installation. After chasing il leaks from the left had side of my motor, I opted to remove the LHS cover with carbs off and very careful ensure that the starter was sliding in and I was not cutting the o-ring.

While this may be more work, in the end I only had to do it once. :) GS1100ED I'm assuming is not that much different to the GS1000
 
posplayr said:
As Chuck has described, theoretically you don't have to remove the LHS cover to get the starter out. And apparently you don't have to remove the carburetors either but it is a BIATCH to remove the starter with the carburetors installed. Now if you have an airbox, then maybe giving it a go without removing the carbs is worth a try.

WRT to the LHS cover, just make sure you pre grease the o'ring around the neck of the starter and use a new Oring.
Those things can leak and I have had them get cut in the process of installation. After chasing il leaks from the left had side of my motor, I opted to remove the LHS cover with carbs off and very careful ensure that the starter was sliding in and I was not cutting the o-ring.






While this may be more work, in the end I only had to do it once. :) GS1100ED I'm assuming is not that much different to the GS1000
Click to expand...

I disagree, it's not that hard. Easily done with the carbs on. Just a little angle and a twist. Except I've never dealt with vm carbs, so maybe I don't know what I'm talking about. I just cleaned the commutator on mine in the last week. I'd be bummed if I had to remove the carbs to do it.
 
Good advice above -- I especially second posplayr's advice to replace the 24mm o-ring on the nose of the starter.

If a GS is leaking oil from the Mystery Hole, this o-ring is usually the cause.
 
Thanks gents for the advice. I'm expecting a struggle due to the carbs and airbox, but that's life.
 
bwringer said:
Good advice above -- I especially second posplayr's advice to replace the 24mm o-ring on the nose of the starter.

If a GS is leaking oil from the Mystery Hole, this o-ring is usually the cause.
Click to expand...

And depending upon the fit, the newer springier O-rings are harder to get in than harder, flatter, leakier O-rings. That also makes the new O-Rings easier to cut when trying to push in from a weird angle. Ofcourse if you cut the o-ring it becomes leakier, but not really any easier to push in.
 
Well that was easier than expected...it took all of 60 seconds, using Chuck Hahn's patented "pry, wriggle and pull" method. A thoughtful previous owner had applied white grease to the O-ring, so that probably helped a little. I'm expecting the new O-ring to offer more resistance than the old one....

The starter motor is a Mitsuba 8M-229, 0.5kW in case that info is of use to anyone.
 
New oring will be snugger as it hasnt been squished for 25 years or so. Grease it like the PO had done and a little wiggling and pulling will get it back in. The teeth may not want to perfectly line up when you stick it back in. In such a case, you just turn the starter a tad and retry till they mesh again.
 
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