Stater shorted, now I'm just confused

[jomeax]

Hey all

One day my gs 500 e -82 didn't start. Starter relay just clicked. Bad battey I thought! One charge later same problem. What the! So I tried a running start, backwheel completley locked, no movement. This got me worried, like alot. It had worked just fine when I parked it a week earlier.

Ok so I press the starter-button repetedly, THERE, finally the starter did what it's supposed to do. Everything runs well. This happened again about a week after that.

So I take the starter out and apart, I can see that the terminal IN hastouched the casing creating a shortcircuit. Fixed this. But when I put together the dang thing I get no resistance from the terminal in to the casing. Or rather 0.8 ohms but I get that from crossing the multmeters sensors aswell. Now it's a dirt cheap multimeter, if that could have anything to do with the results...

So. How much resistnce should I read over a healthy starter? power goes in, around the coils and out again? Should there be no resistance? I tried hooking up the starter directly to the batter, and it spins. Can I measure if it shorts?

Halp please!

 

[TxGSrider]

What gear were you trying to push start it in? I know allot of bikes will just lock up the rear tire if you try to bump start them in 1st or 2nd. Ive had best luck in 3rd or 4th.

I cant help you with the resistance question, but hopefully Ive made you feel better about the rear wheel locking up when you tried to bump start it.

 

[Gorminrider]

there should be very little "resistance".
"Resistance" resists current flow and current flow is relevant to "power".
Starting motors "have" lots of "power" ...therefore, they have very little "resistance".

Your bench test inclines me to say starting motor is ok
because, If your commutator is clean and your brushes "good" there isn't much to go wrong except connections... I am even tempted to say you couldn't burn it out with a little motorcycle battery without a scientific effort.

so, check your handle bar starter button, and the solenoid for "no resistance" when engaged (= no voltage drop-look this up online). Check all the connections...A solid "click" usually indicates a useful solenoid . Disconnect the starter motor, if you can't hear it. You could even replace the starter with a spare headlamp (one side grounded the other to where the motor's wire goes...if you have doubts of the solenoid's proper very low resistance).
..but/And /Or,
if it fails you again, first (Darwin sez) check your nose for the smell of any flammable vapours because there will be sparks! and then short out the two big lugs on the solenoid with solid,shiny metal It'll spin if you do this.....because, the solenoid is a merely a relay switch that connects the + of the battery directly to the + of the startermotor.

 

[jomeax]

thanks for the input. thing came alive once i put it back. the thing even starts.


the puzzeling thing is still how the engine locked before. someone said that the shortcircuit might have welded something stuck.

will check up voltage drop

 

[jomeax]

yeah i usually manage to get it started in 2nd gear. this was on gravel... but i even had a mate push and the backwheel just locket still. so not a very scientific test. will take apart atleast the cylinder later to see how it looks

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

um got leaking carbs hydrolocking your pistions?
DO not tear down your engine yet.

 

[jomeax]

uh that would make sense. will check for leaky carbs. so what push out carbs from cylinder and leave a white paper below for gas stains?