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Stator Installation/Wiring

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike1414
  • Start date Start date
M

mike1414

Guest
Alright guys, I came to you before about my electrical woes, and you helped me to figure out that my stator was bad, now that I am trying to replace it, I am having trouble

A) getting the D@#N THING OUT!
B) figuring out the wiring

As mentioned before, the PO did a lot of work to the electrical system, switching out plugs and wires and re-routing things. In my case now, It seems as though the wiring for the R/R and stator is different. One wire coming from the stator goes off into a plug that runs to a totally different and unknown location. The other two go to an aftermarket plug that was rigged up to the R/R. I guess my man concern is, do all three of the wires from the stator function the same way? I.e., do they all put out the same voltage and aren't each meant for specific tasks? Secondly, is there any way to get this old stator out without really harming the inside of the cover or anything else? PLEEEAASSSEEE HEELLPPP
 
Yes, they are all the same. No, they do not do specific tasks.
The mystery wire goes to the headlight loop, a holdover from a previous design. You should remove it and run all 3 wires directly to the R/R.
 
How is the stator secured to the case? Screws, bolts, what? And what difficulty are you having in removing it?
 
All three stator wires hook to your reg/rec. There shouldn't be to much trouble getting the stator out unless you start to strip the Philips screws. What problems are you having getting the stator out?
 
Yeah I finally got the old one off, just had to beat it up with a hammer a few times. If all else fails, use force...right? As for the wires, the headlight is where I figured they ran. I'll show a pic of what I mean. It's pretty stupid if you ask me.
 
As luck would have it, I have a '79 550E in the garage right now. We tested the charging system and found it to be a bit ... enthusiastic. Output at idle was about 13.8 volts and I was thinking "great, this is the way all of them should be." Then I started adding some revs to the engine. By the time I got to 4,000, voltage was over 16. :eek:

Proceded to do the usual, making sure all the electrical connections are good, etc., and found some interesting stuff with the older systems that have separate rectifiers and regulators.

All three stator wires do, indeed, go straight to the rectifier, however, one of them has a piggy-back connector that goes over to the regulator. :-k
Apparently, the regulator removes the output of one of the stator legs to reduce the total output of the stator, thus regulating the voltage. Even after assuring all the proper connections, voltage was still high, so I will be replacing the /R for a newer R/R unit, possibly a Polaris. :o



Back to Mike1414, to change the stator, you will need to remove the starter cover so you can fish the wires through the cavity. Unfortunately, unless you have really tiny hands and tools, you will need to remove the carbs to get access to the back bolt on the starter cover. :mad:

Since you are going through all the effort of upgrading your system, it would be good to also upgrade the R/R to a Polaris or Comufire unit and be done with it.

.
 
This is the pic of the plug itself. The wire on the bottom with the red butterfly connector is the one that old stator/my new stator apparently is supposed to plug into.





This picture is where the wire leads and my three stator wires coming in from the bottom; the red wire coming from the right side of the screen goes to the battery. The wire does indeed lead to the headlight, so I am not exactly sure what the point is. Also, my other two stator wires are supposed to go into the plug in the two vacant slots.




Granted, the way that the PO had everything hooked up, everything worked, but I'm not sure exactly if this is what ultimately blew my stator. JT, I just glanced through, and those do seem like I need to give them a good read through. Steve, very well put bit there. Apparently, according to another blurb that I started on this forum, my R/R is upgraded and quite expensive, as well as my "power center" that the PO installed.








My bike really just has a rat's nest of electrical work, and it would be awesome if I just had a manual to what the PO did :-s
 
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The headlight loop is a carry over from prior models where the headlight could be turned off. This is no longer an option, but Suzuki chose to not modify the wiring harness. It is not needed, remove it.
 
Something is wrong. Three yellow (stator) wires coming in, but only one wire out? Humm, not good.

Three stator wires should feed directly into the R/R. Positive power output from the R/R should split with one leg going to bikes harness, and the other going to the fuse box on the way to the battery. Negative ground from the R/R can go to the battery direct.
 
I suggest a complete rewire is in order. Remove that rat's nest and simplify as Ed has stated:
3 stator outputs to 3 regulator inputs. (No headlight loop)
1 ground. It can go directly to the battery, or it can go to a central frame ground point.
1 split 12V output, to fuse block and wiring harness.
This is a total of 5 wires, and will greatly simplify things.
The Eager Beaver Power Center is a nice unit.
That R/R, not so much. The Polaris unit Steve mentioned is much, much better and is priced competitively.

Ed, if you look at the last picture there appears to be 3 W/Green wires feeding the R/R. Not sure of the path, though.
 
I would absolutely love to re-wire but can't afford a harness yet. Still gotta carb rebuild to do as well. So although that is in my plans, it is not in them yet.

I guess I should have clarified a bit better earlier as well. The stator has three wires, 2 of which, plug into the remaining two slots on the plug, and the one connects to the other wire that goes to the headlight loop. The other part of the plug runs to the R/R.

That being said, if that one wire goes to the headlight loop, and I do away with it, I do away with my being able to turn the headlight on/off? I just want to make sure that if I do away with it, then the headlight function will not go away completely.

You guys have been very informative thus far; thanks a lot for all the help and insight. Electrical is NOT my field of play.
 
I'm guessing the PO, knows more about GS electrical than the Co and the Co is just fretting about appearances.

That is an issue but more matter of securing the wires rather a complete rebuild. The Co best approach is to confirming operation not re-engineering.

Quick test , Stator Pages and the rest.
 
This is not a harness. It can be done simply using 18 gauge and 16 gauge wire, and some connectors. Sending you a PM.
 
koolaid_kid said:
I suggest a complete rewire is in order. Remove that rat's nest and simplify as Ed has stated:
3 stator outputs to 3 regulator inputs. (No headlight loop)
1 ground. It can go directly to the battery, or it can go to a central frame ground point.
1 split 12V output, to fuse block and wiring harness.
This is a total of 5 wires, and will greatly simplify things.
The Eager Beaver Power Center is a nice unit.
That R/R, not so much. The Polaris unit Steve mentioned is much, much better and is priced competitively.

Ed, if you look at the last picture there appears to be 3 W/Green wires feeding the R/R. Not sure of the path, though.
Click to expand...

Prudent approach
 
koolaid_kid said:
Thanks, Jim. I have drawn it out on paper and it is an extremely simple fix. And would get rid of that rat's nest of wires currently on the bike.
Click to expand...

I'm all for clean wiring if the op can get it done. Properly mounted eking puts less stress on the individual wires and keeps them from flexing and promotes a longer life. Less likely to pinch or ground out wires.

I just got the distinct impression it was over the op head and from the looks of it at lt looked like at least a serviceable rats nest. If you can help him get it cleaned up that would be better for sure.
 
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I sent mike a jpeg this morning. I made it as simple but as complete as possible, including the connection type for each wire. I believe it is within mike's skill set to perform.
 
You guys are awesome! Thanks again, George for the drawing. I'm going to get on it this weekend as I have the entire weekend free. I'm ready to get Hulk going again! I think it is a do-able feat; with some patience, diligence, and guidance from your drawing, I am confident I'll get it done. Wish me luck! I'll get back to you guys this weekend if I need any additional help. Thanks again!
 
So, im out here looking at the wiring between my r/r and my stator, and noticed that i seem to have somewht misinformed everyone. Now. There are two wires that go to the headlight bucket that the PO has intermingled into the stator and r/r wiring. One is white woth red lines to which he had hooked into the plug from the r/r, and the second wire is white with green stripes to which he had one of the stator wires hooked up to. Nyone have any idea what these are for? I juat dont want to bypass them and screw things up. I have the drawing to go by, i just want to make sure it wont mess the charging system, or anything else for that matter, up by bypassing these two wires
 
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