Stator Papers 0.2V test... Shoots way negative?

[kevinoneill]

Hey guys. Little background on the issue.

Battery drains while riding... also while sitting, but slower. I can throw it on the chrager, and prob takes 20min. of driving to drop to 60%

New battery - but honestly, might of goofed on filling the battery correctly with the acid (they came separate) - but for this current issue, assume it ok.

Going threw the Stator Papers. When I do the 2nd step

Let the engine idle, and connect the black multimeter lead to the battery(+). Connect the red multimeter lead to the RED output wire of the RR. Leave the RR connected to the bike. Check the reading on the meter. Leave the engine idling!

The needle on the volt meter, shoots left (negative), a lot more than -0.2V... I set the meter on the 5V setting. Does it matter if it's negative? should i consider this greater than 0.2V?

Should i purchase a digital volt meter? to get a more accurate reading?

Here she is. 1980 GS550T

 

[posplayr]

Quick Sanity check

Quick Sanity check

From what you are measuring, there is a bunch of current going from your battery into the output of the R/R. This is not possible with a functioning R/R because you would be reverse biasing the upper legs of the rectifier bridge. Current doesn't flow through reverse biased diodes.

So either you are not measuring right (e.g. meter setting)
or the R/R is toast.

Just to check your measurement:

1.) with the engine off, put Red on Batt (+) and Black on Batt (-) and check for 12.6-12.9 volts

OK if you pass that the you are using the meter properly.

2.) Now start the engine and measure: put the Red on R/R (+) and Black on R/R (-) and see if you are getting something sane (like 12-13 volts).

if so then go back and do the first measurement again (as per Stator pages).

Note voltage at:
A.) idle
and at
B.) 4000 RPM.

Report back
Jim

 

[bwringer]

Set the meter in the range where you can read 12 VDC. On most, this is the 20VDC range.



When doing the stator test, don't forget to set it to AC, and use the 200V range.

You really need a digital meter. They're $3 at Harbor Freight.

 

[bakalorz]

Hey guys. Little background on the issue.

Battery drains while riding... also while sitting, but slower. I can throw it on the chrager, and prob takes 20min. of driving to drop to 60%

New battery - but honestly, might of goofed on filling the battery correctly with the acid (they came separate) - but for this current issue, assume it ok.

Going threw the Stator Papers. When I do the 2nd step
The needle on the volt meter, shoots left (negative), a lot more than -0.2V... I set the meter on the 5V setting. Does it matter if it's negative? should i consider this greater than 0.2V?

Should i purchase a digital volt meter? to get a more accurate reading?

Here she is. 1980 GS550T

The test you are describing is meant to test for poor connections in the wiring from the r/r to the battery.

Assuming you had the multimeter connected the right way around what it showed is that there is a lot of current going the wrong way.
The most likely cause would be a blown diode in the R/R.

To check for blown diodes in the R/R, skip the rest of the tests in sections A and B in the stator papers for now, and go directly to section C.

I suspect that your R/R will fail test C.
If it does, you will need to get a new one.
GSR member Duaneage sells Honda R/Rs that are less fragile than the OEM Suzuki ones for about $40

You can use your old multimeter for the section C tests if it has a diode test function.
(will look like a little arrow with a bar in front of it)
(kinda like this --|>|-- )
If it does not, you can still possibly do the section C tests using the lowest resistance setting on the multimeter.

If you are not sure, you can try the lowest resistance setting, it won't hurt anything.
If (using a resistance setting) some of the results of test C are OK and others are bad, its most likely the diodes.
If (using a resistance setting) none of the results of test C seem to work, then the resistance setting won't work as a diode test.

The cheap harbor freight digital meter does have a diode test function if you decide to get that meter.

 

[kevinoneill]

was doing it wrong... see further down

 

[kevinoneill]

was doing it wrong, check further down

 

[Billy Ricks]

Phase B

at first i checked the wires on the stator side, and got no reading from any of them...

so i tried the other ends... got no reading from 2 of them, and got 0.7 from white/blue with yellow...

safe to assume my stator is bad then?

You are checking AC voltage on the stator with the wires disconnected aren't you? If so the stator is shot.

 

[kevinoneill]

just to make sure, i disc. all of the wires from the stator, 3 "yellow" and also an additional red

 

[kevinoneill]

You are checking AC voltage on the stator with the wires disconnected aren't you? If so the stator is shot.

I'm using
Phase B - meter set on the 200 Ohm setting, is that wrong?

i tried the 2nd and 3rd phases and can't get a reading of anything, meter set to the 200ACV for the 3rd part

 

[Billy Ricks]

just to make sure, i disc. all of the wires from the stator, 3 "yellow" and also an additional red

Not sure about you particular model but it sounds like you are disconnecting at the R/R. Usually up under the fuel tank you'll find connections for the stator. One end goes to the R/R and the other down into the starter cavity then to the stator. That's where you want to check. The three yellows are the stator wires.

 

[Billy Ricks]

I'm using
Phase B - meter set on the 200 Ohm setting, is that wrong?

i tried the 2nd and 3rd phases and can't get a reading of anything, meter set to the 200ACV for the 3rd part

I don't use the stator papers when I check things. My manual shows different tests. The three yellow wires from the stator when disconnected and with the engine running at 4,000 rpm should give you at least about 50 volts AC. Mine calls for a minimum of 80 VAC.

 

[kevinoneill]

Not sure about you particular model but it sounds like you are disconnecting at the R/R. Usually up under the fuel tank you'll find connections for the stator. One end goes to the R/R and the other down into the starter cavity then to the stator. That's where you want to check. The three yellows are the stator wires.

ohhhh crapppp haha, yeah i'm doing it at the R/R ... sighh....

ok, round 2!

 

[Billy Ricks]

What you should be doing to check the stator is disconnect the three yellow stator wires then put one test probe in one yellow wire then put the other in each of the two remaining wires. Then move the first probe to another wire and the other probe in the other two. Then again move the first probe to the third wire and check the other two.

 

[kevinoneill]

Thanks!

ok i'm on the right track now, but i ran my battery near death

i get 0.7 Ohm between each of the 3 wires to the Stator

checking those 3 wires between the engine case, i get no reading, according to stators is good...

their 3rd check, with the engine running at 5k, checking 200AC, - i'll do this when the battery is back up and i can start the bike again

so far, the Stator seems to be good.

 

[kevinoneill]

Thanks for sticking with me, i'll be back in a little to try to keep on trucking!

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. kevinoneill,

FYI, from my website:

Stator Test​

Stator Replacement
Regulator/Rectifier Replacement

Maybe they'll help.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff​

 

[kevinoneill]

Thanks that does help actually!

I can't get any AC voltage from the stator wires, the papers state greater than 60V, and all 3 should be nearly the same...

i'm reving the engine 4-5k.... connecting two of the wires (tried all 3 variations).... 0.9V is all i can get.... if anything...

would getting ZERO mean i'm messing up the test, or the stators shot? i'd think if it was shot i'd still get at least a little voltage no?

 

[posplayr]

If you had any charging before, then you probably are not measuring right.

For AC voltage measurements you need to set the meter for V AC
For DC voltage measurements you need to set the meter for V DC
For resistance measurements you need to set the meter for Ohms

sometime there is a need to change the bana jacks depending upon current/voltage/resistance.

Read your meter directions; it is hard to know which without seeing the meter.

Pos

 

[kevinoneill]

i've tried every AC (and DC just in case) option there is on my volt-meter - i can't get anything to read, i'm taking the reading from the Stator end of the wires, i understand why it is AC from that end

I'm doing this test... from the PDF couple posts above

For this last test we will need a good, fully-charged battery. We will start the
motor and measure the output of the stator as the motorcycle is running.
Again we will measure between the stator legs, A-B, B-C, and A-C. The
orientation of the test leads does not matter in this test. Set your meter to AC
Volts and start your motorcycle. Use the choke or have someone help you
hold the throttle at around 4000 rpm and check the output between the legs.
The output between each pairother and above 60 volts AC.

 

[kevinoneill]

also a note, 1 of the 3 wires from the stator, looked a little burnt out, the male end was kinda stuck to the plastic wrapping, something to worry about?