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Stator/Regulator replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter buckshot1718
  • Start date Start date
B

buckshot1718

Guest
So,
I am having charging issues with my 81 gs850gl. Im sure it is the regulator and possibly the stator so I want to replace them both.
My question is where should i go to purchase the replacements? I have seen a lot online, some costing 20 bucks and some that are over 100. I dont want to break the bank but i also dont want a piece of junk, just not sure which way to go.
Also i have seen a lot of talk about when reinstalling the new R/R to do some rewiring? Can someone elaborate on this.
Thanks
 
Oh and also i was thinking about replacing the coil packs as well. Im not so good with electrical systems so i have no idea where to start, or where to go to purchase new ones.
 
There are about 1000 posts in the archives on this subject just waiting for you to find...

SH775 is the best R/R (within a reasonable price range). Here is one on ebay for cheap...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Reg...ash=item25d09850c9:g:abgAAOSwdGFYteQN&vxp=mtr

These units are robust so no worry about purchasing used.

Order T2500676 Harness from a Triumph dealer and adapt it to your bike. Be sure to run the stator wires directly into the R/R, bypassing your existing harness. This detail is critical so don't ignore.

What stator is best is more open to interpretation. I prefer Rick's stators, but they are more expensive than most others.

Good luck
 
buckshot1718 said:
So could i just rewire the existing r/r according to this?
Click to expand...

No, find out what the problem is first then proceed with what ever it is. The best upgrade to the charging system on these GS bike is going to a Series type RR. A new stator just completes the process. One of the first things is, is to make sure ALL your electrical connections are in good working order, clean/ replace where you need too.
 
mrbill5491 said:
No, find out what the problem is first then proceed with what ever it is. The best upgrade to the charging system on these GS bike is going to a Series type RR. A new stator just completes the process. One of the first things is, is to make sure ALL your electrical connections are in good working order, clean/ replace where you need too.
Click to expand...

Report teh Quick test results as a first step
 
Posplayr is our resident expert in all things electrical, and has developed and refined those tests to be as easy and comlete as possible.

Just do the tests and report the results, we can help you from there.

.
 
I dont have a voltmeter so ill have to get one of those. I can tell you now that the battery doesn't have enough juice to even start the bike after it has sat for a few hours. I have to jump the bike every morning. If i shut it off and wait just a little while before starting it again, she'll start but has just barely enough juice. So im sure the battery is probably shot as well, i have just seen so many people talk about having charging issues with these early suzukis. I just figured it was part the issue
 
When you jump start the bike, is your 'donor' vehicle running? I hope not, as that is one of the largest contributors to a failed charging system. :oops:

.
 
I did jump it a couple times with the other vehicle running
 
ill pickup a voltmeter today and report back later.
Thanks guys
 
The simple reason why you should not use a running vehicle to jump start the bike is that the car (truck, whatever) might be putting out voltage that is just above the set point for the bike's regulator. It will then try to regulate the voltage. When it regulates the voltage, the car will see that as a load and will compensate to keep the voltage up, because an alternator can adjust output without changing speed.

The bike's regulator is rated for about 25 amps. My van has a 150 amp alternator. Guess which one will win. :-\\\

.
 
Steve said:
The simple reason why you should not use a running vehicle to jump start the bike is that the car (truck, whatever) might be putting out voltage that is just above the set point for the bike's regulator. It will then try to regulate the voltage. When it regulates the voltage, the car will see that as a load and will compensate to keep the voltage up, because an alternator can adjust output without changing speed.

The bike's regulator is rated for about 25 amps. My van has a 150 amp alternator. Guess which one will win. :-\\\

.
Click to expand...

Had not thought of the alternator set point being higher that teh regulator set point which certainly could cause issues if teh cables are good and clean(well connected). The main thing I focus on is called "Load Dump", where very high voltages can occur when connecting and disconnecting from inductive load sources/loads.

This is a major issue in teh Automotive world (and a major complexity in the SSPB design) ; you basically need to be able to handle +/-100V spikes of 10 msec duration.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_dump
 
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