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Stator removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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I have a 1981 GS1100 and Im trying to remove the stator I have taken off the cover and removed the three phillips head screws, now do i need a puller of some sort? Or is there another way I searched but couldnt find anything. thanks
 
Re: Stator removal

1981GS said:
I have a 1981 GS1100 and Im trying to remove the stator I have taken off the cover and removed the three phillips head screws, now do i need a puller of some sort? Or is there another way I searched but couldnt find anything. thanks
Click to expand...

If you're trying to remove the Rotor from the end of the crankshaft then you will need a puller as fastpkr said. If you're trying to remove the stator from the cover then you don't need a puller. :?
 
Re: Stator removal

1981GS said:
I have a 1981 GS1100 and Im trying to remove the stator I have taken off the cover and removed the three phillips head screws, now do i need a puller of some sort? Or is there another way I searched but couldnt find anything. thanks
Click to expand...

Once you unscrew the three phillips head screws and the small wire harness clamp screw, the stator should just come out. When you reassemble the stator to the cover, make sure you use some Lock-Tite on the screw threads.

Hap
 
Sorry for the misinfo. I apparently didn't understand a thread from last week accurately.
 
Well I got it off finally and was going to take it up to the shop to test it but they dont have the specs to test it and neither does my book? I Looked through to the stator papers and it seems to be for running bikes and my bike wont run cause it doesnt have any spark thats why trying to check everything. So does anyone know of any specs for testing the stator and the rectifier? Im a newb so bear with me. And also can anyone in MI recommend a good shop to go to test these parts?
 
With the stator off the bike the only test you can perform is the continuity test. Locate a good ohm meter with a good battery in it, and check the resistance between wire 1 and 2, 1 and 3, and 2 and 3. You should get either 0 ohms or very, very few ohms. If you get an open, the same as if the leads are not touching each other, then the stator is bad.

************************************************************
If you have the stock R/R:

Using the ohm meter, place the positive lead on the red wire then place the negative lead on the:

white with blue wire - you should get 5 to 8 ohms
white with red wire - you should get 5 to 8 ohms
yellow wire - you should get 5 to 8 ohms
black with white wire - you should get 35 to 45 ohms

Place the positive lead on the white with blue wire then place the negative lead on the:

red wire - you should get infinity (the same reading you get when the leads are not touching each other.)
white with red wire - you should get infinity.
yellow wire - you should get infinity.
black with white wire - you should get 5 to 8 ohms

Place the positive lead on the white with red wire then place the negative lead on the:

red wire - you should get infinity
white with blue wire - you should get infinity
yellow wire - you should get infinity
black with white wire - you should get 5 to 8 ohms

Place the positive lead on the yellow wire then place the negative lead on the:

red wire - you should get infinity
white with blue wire - you should get infinity
white with red wire - you should get infinity
black with white wire - you should get 5 to 8 ohms

Place the positive lead on the black with white wire then place the negative lead on the:

red wire - you should get infinity
white with blue wire - you should get infinity
white with red wire - you should get infinity
yellow wire - you should get infinity

If any of the above readings are not what you get, then the R/R is either dying or is dead. Replace it.

Hap
 
1981GS said:
Well I got it off finally and was going to take it up to the shop to test it but they dont have the specs to test it and neither does my book? I Looked through to the stator papers and it seems to be for running bikes and my bike wont run cause it doesnt have any spark thats why trying to check everything. So does anyone know of any specs for testing the stator and the rectifier? Im a newb so bear with me. And also can anyone in MI recommend a good shop to go to test these parts?
Click to expand...
You may well have a stator problem but that would not likely have been the cause of no spark if you had a fully charged battery. A bad stator allows th battery to drain instead of charging it while the motor is running. If your battery is good and you have no spark from the first crank you are more likely to have an igniter, or wiring problem. Or you could have coil problems though it would be unusual for both of them to go out at the same time.

I have had to deal with all of the above over the last year and a half.
 
Re: Testing

Re: Testing

1981GS said:
Well I tested the stator and everthything was was low ohms between 1.4 and 0.4 so I guess thats okay, but my next question is where is my regulator I thought it was the small cooling fan object underneath the battery box.Only reason I ask is cause my wire colors dont match up. Heres some pics

http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/share...ahkDh&callback=thumbnail&shareName=AlbumThumb
Click to expand...

It looks like you may have a Electrex R/R on your bike. Their internal components are different from the stock Suzuki R/R (at least that is what Electrex told me) so I'm not sure how you would test it. You might give them a call...they've been helpful to others in the past. I think the guy's name there is Rizzo

Orders: 1-888-369-8359
Phone: 760-433-0184

Hap
 
Testing

Testing

Okay well I dont believe its the RR so I guess Im on to the ignitor now where is that one and how do I test it or can I
Thanks again for all the input!
 
If it cranks with no spark then your charging system should be good.
I would start with the simplest things: kill switch, clutch safety switch, fuses, plugs, plug caps, etc...
 
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