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Steel Brake Lines

  • Thread starter Thread starter DMB
  • Start date Start date
D

DMB

Guest
I did a search and used Google as well to search and came up empty handed.

I am going to put steel brake lines on my bike and was wondering if I should buy bulk brake line and compression fittings or buy lines that already have the ends compressed on.

Also, where do you recommend that I buy the parts from?

Thanks.

P.S. I thought that i had subscribed to a thread about this but it seems to have disappeared.
 
Hi Mr. DMB,

Here are a few options.

You can buy a pre-made kit from Spiegler:
http://www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/brakelines.cfm

You can make you own using Mr. bwringer's website:
http://www.bwringer.com/gs/brakelines.html

You can assemble your own using Goodridge components from Z1Enterprises:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=MFGO0
(I purchased the Goodridge parts but haven't had time to install them yet.)

I'm sure the clever fellows here can offer a few more suggestions.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I have used the Goodridge twice... nice lines.

Beauty of making your own is you can get the length perfect down to the nearest mm.... make sure you leave enough for when the suspension is fully extended.

Nessism gets his from Earls in Lawndale CA.

Dan :)
 
I got my stainless lines from Paragon Performance a couple of years ago and they've been great. The site lists inch sizes but I think they make them to order so ask for what you need exactly. They were able to put the banjo on one end at a specific rotation away from the other end at no extra charge. Price was very reasonable too, I think I paid about $50 for two with shipping.

http://www.paragonperformance.com/assys2.html

/\/\ac
 
ive gotten two sets from paragon, good guy, reasonable price, worth the peace of mind for me knowing someone put em on there to stay.

nick
 
I figured out what I needed and bought my stuff at www.summitracing.com using the Russell lines and banjos they sell. You can buy different lengths that come pre-assembled with a straight banjo on one end, and a female fitting on the other. You can then buy the banjo you need for the proper angle on the other side. It ended up being less than buying a model specific kit from anyone else.
 
I have used Goodrige sets that ive picked up from Z1. Put a front and rear set up on my 77 750B cafe project, and just this past week finally got the brake system assembled and bled. Its amazing how little force it takes to lock the wheel up. I have not had it out on the road yet, but just rolling it and lightly touching the front brake, it stops it dead. Im talking one finger, barely pressing. Now im sure it will take a little more force when on the road at speed, but before, with the old rubber hoses it DID NOT have that effect. I think i spent less than 50 bucks for both set ups, and granted i dont have that many lines (read: TWO) on the cafe, but i plan on using these same lines on my GS1100G very soon. They sell MANY lengths of ss lines, and also many different banjo fittings.
 
There's a guy in the UK selling copies of the original brake lines in rubber for classic restorer's if your interested.

I've never used him but know a few who have and they were very pleased. Won't be as good a performance as braided lines though.

Suzuki mad.

classichoses@aol.com

He doesn't have a web site.
 
Brake Joint

Brake Joint

On my '80 GS550E I have a joint on the front lines that connects the 2 hoses right behind the front plastic cover. It's number 7 on the schematic below. What does it do? Would it matter if I removed it and just used a single longer brake line? I do not have an anti-dive unit on this bike. Thanks.

brakehoseschematic.GIF
 
Wouldn't matter at all.
My GS1000C had a single disc with that block like yours. The block was nice to have when I converted to dual discs.
 
ive gotten two sets from paragon, good guy, reasonable price, worth the peace of mind for me knowing someone put em on there to stay.

nick


I get it that people are leery of building their own brake lines from raw hose and bolt-on fittings, but having done it a number of times now, I’m confident in recommending this method to anyone with a reasonable level of mechanical skill.

From an engineering standpoint, bolt-on hose ends are very reliable; the ferrule bites down firmly into the Teflon and provides a very secure joint. I’ve taken apart some of these joints before and the Teflon is noticeably deformed around the ferrule indicating a secure seal.

Premade universal hoses, like the Goodrich hoses Z1 sells, have a machine crimped fitting on each end and require bolting on compression-flare banjo adaptors. These bolt on compression-flare fittings are far more prone to leakage than a bolt on hose ends that employs a ferrule. I don’t think there is a serious worry with bolt on flares, but I think it’s ironic that people prefer this method to make their own lines when in fact it’s less reliable.
 
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On my '80 GS550E I have a joint on the front lines that connects the 2 hoses right behind the front plastic cover. Would it matter if I removed it and just used a single longer brake line? I do not have an anti-dive unit on this bike. Thanks.

I eliminated the junction on my 550 and made a one piece line.

Rear line on the 550 is even more complicated than the front in the stock configuration; there are two rubber pieces with a hard steel line in the middle. Haven?t replaced the rear line yet on my 550, but plan to with a one piece stainless-teflon line in the near future.
 
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