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UncleMike
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Billy, that's a hell of an offer. The GSR, and more often than not you, never cease to amaze me.
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Billy, that's a hell of an offer. The GSR, and more often than not you, never cease to amaze me.
Mike I am not sure what your bikes issue is but I wanted to add to the bench synching comments.
I attempted to synch my carbs a couple weeks back using a Carb synch tool and got them all fouled up. This weekend I finally got around to removing and bench synched my carbs using this instruction.
http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint35.shtml
Today I fired the bike up and the carbs were in near perfect synchronization although I had to turn the idle knob down. I only made VERY minor adjustments using the carb synch tool.
My point is it sure didn't take much to throw the carbs out of wack and make the bike run like crap.
I attempted to synch my carbs a couple weeks back using a Carb synch tool and got them all fouled up. This weekend I finally got around to removing and bench synched my carbs using this instruction.
http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint35.shtml
Today I fired the bike up and the carbs were in near perfect synchronization although I had to turn the idle knob down. I only made VERY minor adjustments using the carb synch tool.
My point is it sure didn't take much to throw the carbs out of wack and make the bike run like crap.
dpep
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If your ignition were breaking up I would expect that to be more likely at high rpms, not low.
Did you do compression and leakdown tests on the cylinders? Unless your valves and/or rings are completely shot this has to be a gas/air mixture problem.
When the gas to air mixture is too low combustion will cease. It will also cease when the ratio of gas to air is too high, but that would leave you with wet or sooty plugs. You did not report any backfiring, correct?
The question then is whether there is not enough gas in the mixture, or there is too much air. My gut feeling is too much air and you would need to figure out where it is getting into the system.
Do you have a stock airbox on this bike and is it properly sealed all around and are the intake boots from the box to the carbs all properly sealed? Are you absolutely certain there is no air getting past the intake boots from the carb to the engine?
You might want to do some things to rule out fuel starvation. Do you have a Prime setting on your petcock? If you do, have you tried your startup routine putting it on Prime a few minutes before and leaving it there through the warmup? One thing you can do if you are not on prime is after it stalls immediately drop your float bowls to see if they are holding gas.
You say that when it is fully warmed up it idles at 2000 rpm. You should be synching your carbs with the engine warmed up. After it is fully warmed up and idling at 2000, if you go riding and pull in the clutch, does it stall then?
Is there a certain speed or rpm level above which the bike performs normally?
dpep
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Staff member
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Past Site Supporter
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If your ignition were breaking up I would expect that to be more likely at high rpms, not low.
Did you do compression and leakdown tests on the cylinders? Unless your valves and/or rings are completely shot this has to be a gas/air mixture problem.
When the the gas to air mixture is too low combustion will cease. It will also cease when the ratio of gas to air is too high, but that would leave you with wet or sooty plugs. You did not report any backfiring, correct?
The question then is whether there is not enough gas in the mixture, or there is too much air. My gut feeling is too much air and you would need to figure out where it is getting into the system.
Do you have a stock airbox on this bike and is it properly sealed all around and are the intake boots from the box to the carbs all properly sealed? The intake boots from the carb to the engine?
You might want to do some things to rule out fuel starvation. Do you have a Prime setting on your petcock? If you do, have you tried your startup routine putting it on Prime and leaving it there through the warmup? One thing you can do if you are not on prime is after it stalls immediately drop your float bowls to see if they are holding gas.
You say that when it is fully warmed up it idles at 2000 rpm. You should be synching your carbs with the engine warmed up. After it is fully warmed up and idling at 2000, if you go riding and pull in the clutch, does it stall then?
Is there a certain speed or rpm level above which the bike performs normally?
P.S. A Loose fitting head could certainly be the avenue of excess air....and then seal it out as the metal heated and expanded. You might expect to catch that in a compression/leakdown test as well. Retorquing is about the easiest thing for you to do. I hope that is it.
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Pharkmeh
Guest
we all are m8
I check this thread just for all the tips...
oohhh - and to see if you ever find the problem lol
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p.s. - found a new avi fur ya
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Tom MLC
Guest
Mike, I gotta be honest. I didn't read the whole thread. After about three pages I started to get glassey eyed. I will tell ya I had a problem with my petcock, which I never would have found if I hadn't switched to translucent tubing. Seems like I had some fuel leaking through the petcock diaphram into the vacuum line. Not a lot, but enough to affect the carb performance. I eventually replaced the petcock to solve my problem.
For what it's worth, here's the thread I started:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=100009
Point is, many of the suggestions you have been getting are from people who may overlook this clue because they have black fuel hoses. I kowtow to the GURU's on this site who surely know more than me. But you may never know if the petcock is working properly if you are using traditional black tubing.
If you have the resources, find some clear tubing that is rated for gasoline and high temps. Then you can see if you have gas pulling through the petcock diaphram through the vacuum circuit.
At the very least, you can eliminate the petcock as the probable cause.
For what it's worth, here's the thread I started:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=100009
Point is, many of the suggestions you have been getting are from people who may overlook this clue because they have black fuel hoses. I kowtow to the GURU's on this site who surely know more than me. But you may never know if the petcock is working properly if you are using traditional black tubing.
If you have the resources, find some clear tubing that is rated for gasoline and high temps. Then you can see if you have gas pulling through the petcock diaphram through the vacuum circuit.
At the very least, you can eliminate the petcock as the probable cause.
Don't get me going! Anybody with at least a dried up old Uni-filter for a brain knows the right answer to that one.:razz:
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UncleMike
Guest
Well, the deed is done. Thank you for the suggestion and the advice.
You're gonna hate me, but I got a beam-type torque-wrench. It was the only one in town that went down low enough to give me a 5 and 10ft.-lb. reading.
Got the job done!
Thanks again,
Mike
Here is my answer to all the most pressing tech issues on the GSR:
CLICKER TYPE!!! CHAIN!!! DINO OIL!!!
You shouldn't need a wrench that goes down to 5 or 10 ft/lb. Your head must be torqued more than that. Did you find torque recommendation? Where was the info and how much torque?
Oh. Just noticed your other thread. Didn't have time to read much (off to work) but it sounds like you have help. Sorry if it seems complicated. It'll be worth it if it fixes your problem though.
At least you're learning too. Hope to hear good new when I get home.
At least you're learning too. Hope to hear good new when I get home.
Beam type torque wrenches are the most reliable since they are the simplest. Just make sure the pointer is aimed at zero and you are good forever. The key to using one is to pay close attention to the torque value reading and stop at the appropriate time. I have a couple of Snap-On dial type torque wrenches which is the same in that you need to stop when need be (no click) and they work great.
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UncleMike
Guest
Yup, found the values in the manual. I made the other thread because it's technically a separate question, and should be easier for people to find when searching.
The three 6mm bolts required 7ft.-lbs., which is why I went with the beam.
You're absolutely right Keith, and I've been thinking about that a lot. I desperately just want the bike to run strong and correct, but man I do enjoy learning all this stuff.
Thanks again for all your help.
~Mike
The three 6mm bolts required 7ft.-lbs., which is why I went with the beam.
You're absolutely right Keith, and I've been thinking about that a lot. I desperately just want the bike to run strong and correct, but man I do enjoy learning all this stuff.
Thanks again for all your help.
~Mike
So what's happening? Any progress?
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UncleMike
Guest
I've re-torqued the head bolts and cleaned and re-benchsynched the carbs. I'm cleaning the intake ports now to eliminate any chance of a leak and Brian was kind enough to send me new o-rings for the choke passages.
I'm slapping everything back together tomorrow and we'll see.
Pray for me.
Thanks,
~Mike
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t3rmin
Guest
Good luck!!!
Yup. Good luck!
But now, if the problem goes away, we'll never know what the real fix was because you did several things this time around.:-x Just kiddin' ya.
But I don't see how the choke o-rings could raise the rpm's when hot and I doubt your synch would fix it either unless the plates were somehow sticking, which you said they weren't.
That still leaves the two intake leak checks as possible cures.
If it was the intake surface, it must have been REALLY dirty to leak past the clamps. Possible, though I don't know how you'd miss it earlier.
If it was the head bolts not torqued correctly, then you may be fine. But be aware that some head gaskets won't re-seal. Re-torquing is something that must be tried.
I'm not trying to sound negative, just reasoning it out.
I would also like to be the one who came up with the fix since your problem has been one of the longest running mysteries in awhile and I would therefore be showered with adoration.:lol::lol:
But now, if the problem goes away, we'll never know what the real fix was because you did several things this time around.:-x Just kiddin' ya.
But I don't see how the choke o-rings could raise the rpm's when hot and I doubt your synch would fix it either unless the plates were somehow sticking, which you said they weren't.
That still leaves the two intake leak checks as possible cures.
If it was the intake surface, it must have been REALLY dirty to leak past the clamps. Possible, though I don't know how you'd miss it earlier.
If it was the head bolts not torqued correctly, then you may be fine. But be aware that some head gaskets won't re-seal. Re-torquing is something that must be tried.
I'm not trying to sound negative, just reasoning it out.
I would also like to be the one who came up with the fix since your problem has been one of the longest running mysteries in awhile and I would therefore be showered with adoration.:lol::lol:
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UncleMike
Guest
Yup. Good luck!
But now, if the problem goes away, we'll never know what the real fix was because you did several things this time around.:-x Just kiddin' ya.
But I don't see how the choke o-rings could raise the rpm's when hot and I doubt your synch would fix it either unless the plates were somehow sticking, which you said they weren't.
That still leaves the two intake leak checks as possible cures.
If it was the intake surface, it must have been REALLY dirty to leak past the clamps. Possible, though I don't know how you'd miss it earlier.
If it was the head bolts not torqued correctly, then you may be fine. But be aware that some head gaskets won't re-seal. Re-torquing is something that must be tried.
I'm not trying to sound negative, just reasoning it out.
I would also like to be the one who came up with the fix since your problem has been one of the longest running mysteries in awhile and I would therefore be showered with adoration.:lol::lol:
Believe me Keith, I'd love it if you came up with the fix as well!
I'm just goofing around, trying to be funny.
I sure hope the problem goes away. Sounds like you've made the effort and you've been through enough.
Positive thoughts!
I sure hope the problem goes away. Sounds like you've made the effort and you've been through enough.
Positive thoughts!
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UncleMike
Guest
I'm just goofing around, trying to be funny.
I sure hope the problem goes away. Sounds like you've made the effort and you've been through enough.
Positive thoughts!
Indeed, and all I keep in my head at this point!
