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straight spring replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter wrx603
  • Start date Start date
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wrx603

Guest
Hello, I'll delete this after, but i cant find a good sticky on straight or progressive spring replacement. Yes I've used the search and can't find anything decent. Looking to use straight springs. Just need a little help.

Looking specifically as to what springs to get and the spacer info.

sorry and thank you.

ps 1982 gs1100
looking at sonic springs 1.00kg/mm
 
Last edited:
I use Race Tech straight .9, though I probably should have gone with 1.0. I recall a member here has a company called Sonic, no bad reviews.

Most brands have a chart on their sites that will help you figure out which rate of spring to buy.
 
wrx603 said:
Hello, I'll delete this after, but i cant find a good sticky on straight or progressive spring replacement. Yes I've used the search and can't find anything. Looking to use straight springs. Just need a little help.

Looking specifically as to what springs to get and the spacer info.

sorry and thank you.

ps 1986 gs1100
Click to expand...

you want straight rate springs. Either Sonic Springs or Race-Tech will have what you need.
I used to own Sonic, so I’m a little partial to them. :)

www.sonicsprings.com

If you need any other info just ask.
 
sounds good, i did some more searching and found sonic, so you just install the new springs with pvc spacers? how do you know how much to trim them to?
 
wrx603 said:
So I will be doing fork seals and the new springs at the same time, is there any weird difference because I'm doing them simultaneously?
Click to expand...

I was under the impression that simultaneously was the only proper way.
 
There is a substantial amount of effort to do any one of those tasks.
That same effort needs to be repeated to do any of the others.
Why not do all the effort ONCE? :-k

.
 
wrx603 said:
awesome, that article along with the others on their page clears it up. thanks so much.
So I will be doing fork seals and the new springs at the same time, is there any weird difference because I'm doing them simultaneously?

Sonic Springs tech
Sonic Springs buy
Sonic Springs sag
Click to expand...

Best to do them together, less total work. Seals first, and then the springs and oil as it's all going back together.

A tip: Fork seals generally leak because of small nicks and dings in the fork tube. Those have sharp edges that tear up the sealing lip of the fork seals. If you don't address that the new seals will leak in short order. So, get some extra fine steel wool and lightly buff the tubes. Obviously most of the nicks will be on the front of the tubes, so concentrate there, but check all the way around in case the tubes have been off the bike at some point. Light buffing is the key, you don't want to go through the chrome. You don't need to get rid of the nicks completely, just knock the sharp edges off of them.
 
I'm getting ready to do this on my 1100e. I have new seals, retaining rings, dust covers and Sonic springs. Does the forks have to be completely disassembled for this task? Also my uppers have a hole in them that I am not clear what for...I thought mabey anti dive but not sure and my Clymers has no mention of it. Because of these holes in each would you install the forks into the triples, insert the set screws into those two holes THEN add fork oil and bottom them up while on the bike.
Quite honestly I have only rebuilt 2 sets of forks both on dirt bikes as I have always farmed that task out. I want to do these myself...cant be too awful bad I wouldn't think.
 
The small holes in your upper tubes are likely an air equalization port. Did you notice a couple of o-rings on the triples and a tube running between them?

That hole will be covered and sealed when you put the forks back in. With the Sonic springs you will not need to add any air, so no worries about the hole, since it will be covered.

.
 
Steve said:
The small holes in your upper tubes are likely an air equalization port. Did you notice a couple of o-rings on the triples and a tube running between them?

That hole will be covered and sealed when you put the forks back in. With the Sonic springs you will not need to add any air, so no worries about the hole, since it will be covered.

Yes Steve exactly as you describe thank you
Click to expand...
 
RichDesmond said:
The springs will come with instructions that detail how to do that.

http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/damper_rod_forks_tech_article.php

Give those read and let me know if you have questions.
Click to expand...
nice share
o.png
 
Last edited:
Cwoods said:
I'm getting ready to do this on my 1100e. I have new seals, retaining rings, dust covers and Sonic springs. Does the forks have to be completely disassembled for this task? Also my uppers have a hole in them that I am not clear what for...I thought mabey anti dive but not sure and my Clymers has no mention of it. Because of these holes in each would you install the forks into the triples, insert the set screws into those two holes THEN add fork oil and bottom them up while on the bike.
Quite honestly I have only rebuilt 2 sets of forks both on dirt bikes as I have always farmed that task out. I want to do these myself...cant be too awful bad I wouldn't think.
Click to expand...

I just took some JBs Weld and plugged those holes. I smoothed out any roughness with with some 2000 grit paper.
 
Cwoods said:
I'm getting ready to do this on my 1100e. I have new seals, retaining rings, dust covers and Sonic springs. Does the forks have to be completely disassembled for this task? Also my uppers have a hole in them that I am not clear what for...I thought mabey anti dive but not sure and my Clymers has no mention of it. Because of these holes in each would you install the forks into the triples, insert the set screws into those two holes THEN add fork oil and bottom them up while on the bike.
Quite honestly I have only rebuilt 2 sets of forks both on dirt bikes as I have always farmed that task out. I want to do these myself...cant be too awful bad I wouldn't think.
Click to expand...

I think you will find it easier to put "The measured amount of oil"in the tubes while out of the triples.
 
RichDesmond said:
Easier, but less accurate.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure I agree with that although I know you have more experience than I. I found it quite easy to measure the exact amount. I use something like a dip stick method.
 
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