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Stuck valve cover, how to break free?

  • Thread starter Thread starter madadam
  • Start date Start date
If you have warmed the engine to take the covers off. Make sure you let the engine remain as is over night before checking the valve clearances.
 
I had a simular issue on my rebuild project.. I used a pulley hanging from a ceiling hook and ran rope a few times under teh middle section of the valve cover and pulled with a guy tapping gently at the cover... it came right off when with the weight of the bike holding it down =0)

Also as said before make sure you removed all your bolts:-D
 
Pete Logan said:
That said, if the manufacturer's torque recommendations (ie: stretch) are well within the capabilities of the bolt, perhaps the bolt can tolerate being stretched that much for quite a number of times without a problem.
Click to expand...
very true
now, i love my gs but unfortunately suzuki didnt bother much with such "details" i think :-s
in principle, the best practice is to replace old bolts as a precaution as you're likely to snap a few during an engine re-build (especially it the mileage is high)
...and then theres the story of that soft alu alloy and the new bolts stripping the threads :confused:

btw, the torque measure is not an aproximation of strech (since different materials strech differently) but a measure of the tension (rotational pressure) between the bolt head and the seat
 
Junkie said:
That depends on how much you're stretching it. If you're staying in the zone of elastic deformation, it'll be fine forever (or damn near). If you're deforming it plastically, you'll have a limited lifetime. I'm guessing the torque specs are low enough that you aren't getting that close to plastic deformation.
Click to expand...
True that - as an example, wheel lugs on cars last forever with multiple do/undo's.

I guess I was just thinking if there's any doubt at all then replacement is quite cheap compared to the costs of a failure. Especially inside an engine.
 
As previously mentioned, I think you should wait a bit for warmer weather. It is far too cold up here to work in an unheated area. Working in the cold can cause problems, the metal is more brittle and a tap in the wrong area can cause a crack or worse. Accidents also can happen to fingers so be careful. If you must work on her, use a halogen spot light about 6 to 8 inches away to heat up the work area. A half hour or so and it should be toasty.

Working on the side cover should only be done with a rubber headed mallet IMHO.Tap around in a clockwise method and eventually it will come. As also mentioned, a 2 inch putty knife inserted between cover and engine case works well to push things apart.

When reassembling, the trick of rubbing axle grease into both sides of the gasket works well to ensure a good tight seal and will allow the side cover to come off easier next time. Good tip which you can use on all your gaskets ( other than cylinder head and base gaskets).

While I really want to get a few things done too I'm resisting working in the man room until the temps at least get into the pluses. Two to three more weeks ought to do it.

Good luck with your projects.

Cheers,
Spyug.
 
Giving up for now

Giving up for now

Well I think for the sake of my own sanity I will wait another few weeks for the weather to warm up a bit.

I tried the plastic scraper trick, but I can't get it to actually penetrate. I tap and push, but the scraper breaks before the gasket does. It might work better when it's warm, since plastic gets much more brittle at low temp (like most materials).

It's frustrating since this is one of those things that I've been meaning to get to since I got the bike. The kms are low enough that I doubt there's a problem, but I figured I might as well check while the bike is just sitting there. That's what I get for being proactive!

I guess I'll look for something else I can do for now (maybe something small enough to bring inside :))

Thanks for all the replies.

Cheers,
Adam
 
tkent02 said:
Why not bring the whole bike inside?
Better to ask forgiveness than permission on that one.
Click to expand...

Hehe.. it's not that I havn't considered it...

It was hard enough squeezing my bike into the shed (narrow door), I cringe at the thought of trying to get it up the five or six stairs, through the door, around some corners, and down the narrow staircase into the basement. And I'm sure getting it in would be much easier than getting it back out!

Nah, I'll just wait for spring :)
 
Good call on the postponing of work and the decision to not bring her indoors. Stinks up the joint and makes the boss really annoyed.

There was a good long thread on the GTAForums site where a dude in Toronto was bound and bent on bringing his sportbike down a flight of stairs to a basement apartment. Despite numerous arguments against it he was (at last post) determined to do it. I don't know how it turned out but I can see it ending in tears.

As I mentioned, I have an unheated man room to work in but after building my XS street tracker there over the winter of 06/07 I can't muster up the enthusiasm any more to work in the cold and I'm too busy shovelling snow:cry: these days.

If you were some how able to pull the engine you could likely muscle it into the basement to work on. If you are really motivated, you could take off the front and back end, seat, tank and everything else you can find get a box o beer and a couple of brawny buddies and drag the frame and motor indoors. Leave the tank in the shed.

Better idea....just put your feet up.....or catch up on your household projects ( and keep the boss happy) 'til the 24 weekend. Weather should be good by then:-D

Cheers,
Spyug
 
spyug said:
There was a good long thread on the GTAForums site where a dude in Toronto was bound and bent on bringing his sportbike down a flight of stairs to a basement apartment. Despite numerous arguments against it he was (at last post) determined to do it. I don't know how it turned out but I can see it ending in tears.
Click to expand...

When I was young and strong, I once carried a Ford flathead V8 short block out of a friend's basement. I have no idea how he got it there.
 
spyug said:
Better idea....just put your feet up.....or catch up on your household projects ( and keep the boss happy) 'til the 24 weekend. Weather should be good by then:-D

Cheers,
Spyug
Click to expand...

This is good advice.

I have no desire to bring the thing inside. In the fall I was considering yanking the engine, but got lazy/wise and changed my mind. And of course I've no shortage of household projects to keep me occupied until spring. :)

Cheers,
Adam
 
My 750 has been in my basement all winter. Took the motor out outside, then with the help of a friend and fellow GSR, wheeled the frame sans motor and tank down without incident. Then the motor followed after. She'll come out the same way this spring, and i have to say, its been nice to be able to work on her all winter, as i dont have a garage. I certainly wouldnt be anywhere near done as i am now if i hadnt.
 
TheCafeKid said:
My 750 has been in my basement all winter. Took the motor out outside, then with the help of a friend and fellow GSR, wheeled the frame sans motor and tank down without incident. Then the motor followed after. She'll come out the same way this spring, and i have to say, its been nice to be able to work on her all winter, as i dont have a garage. I certainly wouldnt be anywhere near done as i am now if i hadnt.
Click to expand...

You, sir, are far more ambitious than I :)
 
I reckon you need a lump of soft wood 2 x 1" about 8" long should do it & then get your club hammer & give it a good solid whack on the front corners of the cover (with the wood in the middle as a drift).

That's what got mine off & it hadn't been removed in quite a few years (TPO had done about 300 miles a year for 5years plus so it hadn't needed it).

The wooden drift allows you to be more accurate than just clubbing it with a mallet... this has worked for me on all the case covers I've removed & many stubborn car engine parts too.

Dan :)
 
An update!

An update!

Well, I finally got the cover off! \\:D/

After having no luck with the old wood block and hammer trick, I went to plan B -- I used a medium-sized flat-head screwdriver as a wedge. I tapped it in at the bolt holes so that if/when it marred the surfaces, it at least in places that have some level of redundancy. I had to do that about six times around the perimeter of the cover, and it still needed a hearty pull to separate.

Getting the gasket bits off took about three hours with a wooden scraper, some brake cleaner (also tried a generic industrial cleaner and carb cleaner with no luck), and a razor scraper for the more troublesome bits.

One of the valves did need adjustment, so at least it wasn't all for naught.

My replacement gasket should be in soon, then the only job left is replacing the fork seals. Bring on the good weather!

Thanks to everyone for their replies!

Cheers,
Adam
 
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