SuperTech lubricants MSDS

[rustybronco]

http://msds.walmartstores.com/

SuperTech lubricants appear to be mostly Citgo products now. (They used to be Warren Performance Products?)

I found this info when researching yellow metal safe gear oils to replace an obsolete GL-1 spec.


Just put in SuperTech in the product name tab and smack enter.

Hope this helps someone.

 

[Nessism]

Most of the BITOG members have decent things to say about the SuperTech products. It's funny how some people have such strong opinions about oil while some of the most knowledgeable guys hardly ever bash the cheap stuff.

 

[Steve]

Although there ARE differences, I learned long time ago that what is probably more important than "what brand" or "how often", is ... "stick to the same brand".

Many years ago, I used to do oil changes and tune-ups for the girls that my wife worked with. Before I changed the oil, I asked if they had any preference what oil went in. Most did not care. One car in particular needed to have the valve cover gaskets replaced. I had some difficulty removing the covers because the inside of the cover was filled with baked-on sludge. It looked like those foam-filled camera cases that have cutouts for each accessory. Yep, there was a "cutout" for each rocker arm. Because the gaskets leaked, she had to keep adding oil. When I asked what oil she usually put in, the answer was "whatever is the cheapest, because I have to do it so often". I am convinced that the constant mixing of different brands, with their different (possibly non-compatible) additive packages really contributed to that mess.

There was another car I worked on, but this one was for a friend of mine. I had heard some rather negative things about the oil he had chosen to use, but when we pulled the valve cover, it all looked brand new inside. Wet, but VERY clean. Possibly questionable-quality oil, but he used the same stuff ALL THE TIME.

.

 

[LAB3]

That sludge issue has a lot to do with how the engine is used. A person living in an urban/suburban environment only drives a few miles at a time, the engine rarely gets up to operating temperature. This allows condensation to form and it rarely gets a chance to evaporate off creating rust and sludging up the oil. I'll take a rural owned car with 100k miles over a metro owned car with 30k any day of the week!

 

[Nessism]

Agree that sludge relates to temperature and condensation. Short trips don't help and certain engines are prone by design (flaw). Toyota had at least one such engine family so affected. I don't think it's affected by the type of oil used per say, but I suppose some oils may be better than others at avoiding sludge.

 

[Cipher]

Short haul trips in cold damp conditions produce sludge. A white frothy foam that likely drops the oil level on the dipstick as so much oil gets caught up in a spongy goo on the coldest part of the engine.

I have had it happen in winter in older engines and found that you can drive it out by driving long enough to heat the engine. Usually goes away in summer with sufficient heating of the engine bay.

I have not seen it in a modern vehicle but probablu stopped looking.

I had sludge in one mc years ago but changing oil and getting the machine up to full operating temps and the head and valvetrain cleaned up as nice as new.

 

[Guest]

I think that a bearing's memory of what oil was last visiting is highly overrated. It could be that a varied diet is actually healthier.

 

[rustybronco]

Find an oil that doesn't sludge up the valve train area - pcv ect. and call it good.

I personally use Mobil 1 in both cars along with quality Wix and Bosch filters and change the oil at 6,000 miles. I buy the oil on sale and when there is a rebate. It satisfies my need to be frugal
and use good quality items. The Wix filters cost me $6.24 ea shipped. The Bosch are normally $4.99, even less when on sale.

 

[Cipher]

I think that a bearing's memory of what oil was last visiting is highly overrated. It could be that a varied diet is actually healthier.

Years go in Sarasota FLA some very old man of about 45-50 years old was expounding the virtue of only using one brand of oil because:
Yeah the old oil burns off when the new oil is put in and until it does the parts are unprotected. He also sent us on a trek to buy food at a Starvin Marvins.......is that really a thing?

 

[Downs]

I run UOAs on all the vehicles at least once a year. I've used everything from supertech to Amsoil and they all pretty much come back the same, with synthetics having an edge on longer oil change intervals. Both of us have a 2 hour round trip commute so we never really have a problem with not getting the vehicles up to temperature.