Z
Z32650S
Guest
I echo Rich's comments. I have owned both a race and a street SV for almost a decade and can say they are a blast to ride and make for great reliable bikes all around (track or street).
They come stock with a pretty bulletproof engine and are relatively easy to work on if you choose to add power. I have upgraded the cams, air filter, pipes and jetting, suspension among a bunch of other things on these bikes (I like to work on bikes). They will only start to self destruct if you go on pushing power beyond 80hp with stock engine internals. Also, plenty of used and new performance parts are still being made for the carb 1 gens (99-02). GSXR front end swaps are very popular as noted before just be sure the Speedo is working correctly with 4 equally spaced earth magnets on the front wheel or disc. This maintains the Speedo calibration. You will also want to check the R/R to see if it is OEM or, if you're lucky, has been switched out for an upgraded MOSFET unit. Do a stator & R/R check with a volt meter at the battery. You should have a steady 14-14.5v (approx.) at the battery @5k rpm. OEM R/R are known to fail as they are the self destructing shunt type.
They are relatively noisy engines (endearingly referred to as angry sewing machines, lol). However, you will want to ensure the cam chain tensioners are working well and that no chain slap is heard. Some examples are available on YouTube. Hope this helps you in your decision and getting a good deal. Cheers.
They come stock with a pretty bulletproof engine and are relatively easy to work on if you choose to add power. I have upgraded the cams, air filter, pipes and jetting, suspension among a bunch of other things on these bikes (I like to work on bikes). They will only start to self destruct if you go on pushing power beyond 80hp with stock engine internals. Also, plenty of used and new performance parts are still being made for the carb 1 gens (99-02). GSXR front end swaps are very popular as noted before just be sure the Speedo is working correctly with 4 equally spaced earth magnets on the front wheel or disc. This maintains the Speedo calibration. You will also want to check the R/R to see if it is OEM or, if you're lucky, has been switched out for an upgraded MOSFET unit. Do a stator & R/R check with a volt meter at the battery. You should have a steady 14-14.5v (approx.) at the battery @5k rpm. OEM R/R are known to fail as they are the self destructing shunt type.
They are relatively noisy engines (endearingly referred to as angry sewing machines, lol). However, you will want to ensure the cam chain tensioners are working well and that no chain slap is heard. Some examples are available on YouTube. Hope this helps you in your decision and getting a good deal. Cheers.
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