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Synthetic or semi-synthetic Oil Query?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mercaholic
  • Start date Start date
I'm not here to debate the chemical makeup of Synthetic oils. What I will contribute is that with regular dino oil, my 750 has a sticky clutch until the oil really warms up. Switching to Synthetic (15w-50 Mobil One) takes care of that. It really makes riding much more enjoyable during the warm up period (which is most of the time for me, since I live only 2 miles from work/school).

Just one thing to consider.
 
All oils work. Some have different characteristics.

Next :-D
 
...easy enough done, on an oil thread. :-D Hang in there, as with everything else in old age, either you'll find it again, or one of your decendents will find it for you. :shock: :-D

So, are you saying Hap is old or, that you agree that he has lost his sense of humor?
 
I'm going out to kill myself.




Do you guys thing syn would do a better job than dino
banghead.gif

Notice how the humor on this subject is ever evolving?
 
The analogy breaks down a bit at the molecular level; your sheet of metal and the floor when highly magnified become lumps of jagged rock so any ball bearings that fit in the gaps are fine.

Anyone remember the engine that came out in the 70's that did 100,000 (test bed) miles with milk replacing the oil? Is it another one for the conspiracy theorists that was bought out and squashed by the oil companies?

Wait?! Milk?! Really? Was that whole, 2%, 1%, 1/2% or just skim? I might point out that milk is for the moment, cheaper than oil. \\:D/
 
Wait?! Milk?! Really? Was that whole, 2%, 1%, 1/2% or just skim? I might point out that milk is for the moment, cheaper than oil. \\:D/

It was the 70s..... would have had to have been either full fat or sterilised (yuk).

The whole point of the experiment wasn't the oil (=milk) but the built in lubrication of the metals they used in the motor.
 
For the guy who originally asked, just go purchase some Rotella 5-40 in the blue jug and be happy. Oil and filters religously will grant you many happy miles of riding.[/quote]


My understanding is that anything with a 10W or less rating has what they call friction modifiers and is not good for the clutch?
 
My understanding is that anything with a 10W or less rating has what they call friction modifiers and is not good for the clutch?


Oils that have the friction modifiers have a "Energy Conserving" label - as you noted, typically 5W oils or less. Rotella 5W-40 synthetic does not have said label thus is safe for a motorcycle clutch.
 
Evolution...

Evolution...

Probably the single most important thing to remember regarding oils is that they are constantly evolving. The oil that helped you bike run 100,000 miles in 1998 no longer exists in the same formulation it did then. I may be BETTER, or it may have been engineered into one of the Low Zinc formulas that are required by the Auto Companies to keep their Catalytic Convertors clean.

You should look for current data, don't rely on what worked even just a few years ago! Personally, I don't have the patience for all that so I just use oil that is specified for Diesels. If you want Synthetic, still you should stay with the Diesel formula.

Bruce
 
I just use oil that is specified for Diesels. If you want Synthetic, still you should stay with the Diesel formula.

Bruce
Because of the extra cleaning additives ?

I used to use only heavy duty full synthetic diesel in everything, but I've got lazy in recent years - not so easy to find the stuff here. Maybe I should make more of an effort.
 
In the US, until recently, diesel engines did not typically use catalysts in the exhaust, thus diesel oil had more beneficial additives which are good for motorcycle engines. Unfortunately for motorcyclists, diesel engine oils have undergone a change recently, due to changes in emissions requirements, which somewhat degrades their performance. They are still better than auto oil though and worth using.
 
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