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taking the top off the motor

  • Thread starter Thread starter scottsgs
  • Start date Start date
S

scottsgs

Guest
Hi all,

I recently posted about using JB Weld to stop a leak. Well it didn't go as planned. The place where the leak was coming fron turned out to be impossible to get clean enough to let the JB Weld adhere properly. So, having been rescued by a generous father-in-law, I bought all the gaskets and o-rings from the head gasket to the top of the crankcase.

So, here's my question; what should I be aware of when pulling the top of the motor off? I am talking about things that may not be mentioned in the Clymer manual. Any info would be great.

Thanks,

Scott
 
Take your time.

Take digital pictures if you need to

don't force anything

loosen cam caps, head bolts a little at a time in the same sequence you would torque them in

Tie something big to the cam chain so it does't drop down in

Don't pry or beat on fins

Did I say take your time

while you have it down check your rings and valves

keep the crankcase covered so you don't drop anything down in

Check and double check your cam timing when you re-assemble

always use a torque wrench

I'm sure I'll think of more Scott
 
Go thru the manual and count every bolt you took out of the head.
Just to make sure you got them all out.
Would hate to miss one.
 
If it don't fit, don't force it...

I would add that you should get both the Haynes and Clymer manuals, and maybe even the Suzuki manual too if you're feeling wealthy, and carefully read the procedures in all three.

They all describe things in different ways, and sometimes one description will click better than another.

All are also wildly inaccurate at times, so put your brain in gear before doing anything irrevocable.


Also, when you consult the Forum Hive Mind, it really helps if you tell us what sort of motorcycle you have... might want to add that to your signature. :-D
 
All of the above. Make sure you put your valve shims and buckets in the same place you removed them from.....have egg cartons or some other way to ensure that.

Make sure the little 6mm bolts on the side and front of the head are removed before you try to pull the head.

Make sure your gasket surfaces are very, very clean and free of gasket material before you put things back together. Sometimes that takes quite a bit of effort.
 
taking the top off the motor

I will keep everyone informed as I go along.

Scott
 
Be very careful when you remove bolts from any cover. They are not always the same length. :shock:

One thing I have found handy is to take a piece of cardboard (a flap from a cardboard box usually works), draw a rough outline of the cover (cam, clutch, stator, etc.) and note the locations for the bolts. Make holes in those locations with a Philips screwdriver, then put the bolts in the holes as you remove them. That way, there is no mixing them up when it comes time to re-install. \\:D/


.
 
thats a hella usefull tip...Steve showed me that one once..never forgot it, and ive used it a dozen times since.
 
did that

did that

I used that system on valve cover screws today and it helped immensely
 
Scott,

Good advise above, especially about tying up the cam chain to the frame so dont dropp it down into crankcase.

I will make further comments below on sorting out all the pieces parts so not so frustrating at reassembly. It may seem kinda obvious at dissassembly, but it isnt going to be so obvious later when you are trying to put it back togeter.

- Start a collection of various tin cans. THe wider, bigger round but shorter kind work well. Like the smaller cans for stew or sweet pototoes work well cuz can reach hand/fingers into them with out having to dump out contents. Use the cans to hold parts from a particular assembly, like all the bolts and flanges from exhaust togetether in one can. Or all the cam caps and cam cap bolts in an other can. Thats assuming all the bolts are same size. FOr smaller parts or for a smaller number of parts: tuna fish cans work well, like for the couple bolts and the rubber grommets from the gas tank mounting. I have about 10 or 12 tuna fish cans on my bench that I have collected over time (ah, er, um, after having the tuna fish out of the can, you will want to wash the can out with soap).

- A here is a 2nd or 3rd vote for some method of arranging the various bolts of, say, the cam cover, where different bolts are different length, and some have some other attatchment like the clip to hold the spark plug wires. I have used the cardboard with holes poked in similar arrangment as the bolt pattern. Which is good for getting the exact same bolt back into the excat same hole, but does take more bench space and if it gets moved around can have one or two get dislodged. Another method I have also used is this: Draw out the general shape of the asssembly on a piece of paper or cardboard, and indicate the location of each bolt and number each location somehow, but leave room on sheet for other markings below or above or have another sheet also. THen as you take out each bolt, lay the bolt above or below the the drawing and somehow record its length and length of threads (maybe even trace it if you have to) and indicate which number/location it is, then when you take out another one that is same size you can add that number, if its a different size then mark that size and record the hole location, and so on, so then you have this chart that shows bolts of this length go in say 4th and 8th bolt hole, and bolts of this other length go in 1st 2nd 5th ectera bolt hole. Then can safely throw all these bolts in a can, and then at reasssembly you can determine which bolts of which length go into which holes.

- egg carton works well for things like vavle buckets and valve shims. But not the stryofoam type if you are working on carbs and have out all the jets and such and are gonna use carb cleaner. Carb cleaner disolves the stryfoam and then the disolved srtyafom may reform back on the part but then is more like plastic stuck to/on/in your jet... Yikes.

Oh, speaking of valve buckets and valve shims. If you are just trying to remove the head to replace the head gaskets, you will not need to pull the valve buckets or shims. BUt maybe you will want to on purpose just so it doesnt happen by accident and then you dont know which one went where (and, yes, it does matter).
 
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