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Tappet depressor/valve shim tool video

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For anyone who has never adjusted his own valves and is debating the whole "zip tie vs tappet depressor tool" question, here is a link to a video I found on Youtube showing the tool in use. The video is in German, but it's of good enough quality that you don't really need to be able to understand the narrator. I'm pretty sure the tool this guy is using is an actual Suzuki tool. If you're interested, the part number is 09916-64510 08-0017. There are numerous 3rd party versions if you can't find the Suzuki tool.

Anyway, I hope someone finds this useful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCcF4X1mvP0
 
I used the tool ever since I bought my bike in 2010 but I have experienced enough frustration keeping the tool in place when setting it that I finally witnessed how to use the zip ties. I'm switching to the zip tie method
 
I have used the Suzuki depressor for at least a dozen years without problems. I have never tried the zip-tie method, and won't do so. Why change something that works perfectly for me?
 
I would agree with you JJ and did until this last week. I tried to show my daughter how to use the tool and it slipped off the cam the first three times I tried to set it while talking to her. We swapped to the zip tie method I had been shown the night before and we finished her valve adjustment about 45 minutes later (total time over 2 days as she started not feeling well and we had to finish the next day)
 
I have used the Suzuki depressor for at least a dozen years without problems. I have never tried the zip-tie method, and won't do so. Why change something that works perfectly for me?

After seeing that video on Youtube with what looks like the genuine Suzuki tool, it looks like it has nice, sharp edges, which would seem to be critical in keeping the tool from slipping out of position. I can see where if that same design were made with rounded edges (as in a cheap, 3rd party manufacturer), it might tend to slip, and that could easily spell disaster. The jury is still out for me at the moment.....
 
I would agree with you JJ and did until this last week. I tried to show my daughter how to use the tool and it slipped off the cam the first three times I tried to set it while talking to her. We swapped to the zip tie method I had been shown the night before and we finished her valve adjustment about 45 minutes later (total time over 2 days as she started not feeling well and we had to finish the next day)

So what changed? Why did the tool all of a sudden stop working?
 
It didn't just stop working as I have always had issues keeping it in place; however, I also just dealt with it as I too didn't trust the zip tie method. But that's the way it is until you SEE and TRY something new and realize it's not that bad. I saw how simple it made the change and definitely reduced the frustration levels to nothing.
 
Let me add something here - choose your own way. Try the tool out and give it a fair shake for awhile. If you don't like it, at least you know there is another way
 
Because something else might be easier and SAFER? :-k :-\\\

.

Perhaps so. Having had no problems in years, I don't find the procedure using the tool either hard nor unsafe, though. I'll stick with what works for me, thanks.
 
Perhaps so. Having had no problems in years, I don't find the procedure using the tool either hard nor unsafe, though. I'll stick with what works for me, thanks.

Same here, I've been using the same or similar tool for years on my old VW Rabbit, XS750 Yamaha and 2 GS1000's. I tried the zip tie thing to see what the big deal is and frankly found it to be somewhat bothersome and finicky plus I just don't like sticking foreign objects in the cylinders. And safer??? Safe I guess until you knock a piece of carbon off a valve and onto the seat I guess. One should just use what works for them and not criticize others for their choice.
 
Well, I have shown these before and I'll show them again.

Here is what can happen when the tool slips off the side. Yes, the zip-tie is safer. And if you have carbon on the valves, you need a tune-up anyway, and the carbon will only be there for a couple revolutions of the engine.

IMG_4064.jpg


IMG_4065.jpg


Obviously we are not going to convince each other, but I am just trying to point out that there ARE hazards to using a tool that stands a good chance of being knocked out of place in the middle of the procedure.

You are evidently either lucky or skilled enough to not have that happen to you. Obviously I am not lucky enough, and I have not yet developed the skill necessary, so I, too, will stick with what works for me. :encouragement:

.
 
One should just use what works for them and not criticize others for their choice.

Let me add something here - choose your own way. Try the tool out and give it a fair shake for awhile. If you don't like it, at least you know there is another way

Who here said anything about criticizing a person's choice? All that has been said was there is a second way and it is a viable option IF THE PERSON CHOOSES IT. Why is it anytime someone tries to present an alternate theory/practice/opinion, it is automatically assumed they are criticizing others or being offensive?
 
Who here said anything about criticizing a person's choice? All that has been said was there is a second way and it is a viable option IF THE PERSON CHOOSES IT. Why is it anytime someone tries to present an alternate theory/practice/opinion, it is automatically assumed they are criticizing others or being offensive?

Because something else might be easier and SAFER? :-k :-\\\

.

Sorry Cowboyup but that was not directed at you by any means and I totally agree totally agree that if someone finds an alternate way of doing things that's great. Especially with the cost of specialized tools these days many of us find a work around when needed. What I take issue with is when someone seems to think their work around is the "easiest and safest" way to do things because they encountered problems with it while many of us have found the recommended way works just fine. It insinuates that somehow we are the ones doing it incorrectly or in an unsafe manner. As I said, I've tried both and use what works for me, JJ uses what works for him and Steve uses what works for himself also. I don't have an issue with that and was not the first to comment on it.
 
I tried the tool, but it was challenging on the outside valves... using zip ties did the trick. A bit of carbon being dislodged doesn't worry me. Do whatever works for you!
 
There are two secrets to using the OEM-style tool:

1) Make sure the surfaces are square. I have the Motion Pro tool, and it's sorta crappy. It had a casting ridge in the middle, but a few minutes with a file cleared that up.

2) The big secret? Apply some sideways pressure to the tool as you insert it. If you're on the right edge of a bucket, pull a little to the left as you insert the tool and it'll stay in place nicely, every time.


The zip-tie technique works great as well, and once you get the hang of it, it's almost as fast as using the shim tool. And, as Steve notes, there's less risk of the bucket banging into a cam and breaking a shim. Use whichever method floats your boat.

Honestly, I'm sort of wondering when someone is going to come up with something other than a Zip-tie -- maybe 3D print, machine, or cast a nice little plastic tool for this specific purpose. Could be really skookum.
 
I just sent Steve an email wondering if a popsicle stick or two wouldn't accomplish the same thing, but with a little firmer grip? You could wrap them with black electrical tape for a little extra cushion. What do you think bwringer?
 
I'm not sure a popsicle stick would reach -- to do the zip-tie thing I think you need a bend at the end of the tool.


Also, one other point -- at the end of the German video, he uses a magnet to pull the shim out. In the manual, using a magnet is ganz verboten -- supposedly you run the risk of magnetizing the hardened shim, and if it sticks to the cam lobe and lifts out during an accidental overrev, things could get ugly fast. Also, any ferrous debris in the oil could end up sticking to the shim.

I don't know how much of an actual, real-life danger this is, but I figure there's no point in tempting the fates. I've got a big pair of tweezers I use for yoinking shims.
 
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I'm not sure a popsicle stick would reach -- to do the zip-tie thing I think you need a bend at the end of the tool.


Also, one other point -- at the end of the German video, he uses a magnet to pull the shim out. In the manual, using a magnet is ganz verboten -- supposedly you run the risk of magnetizing the hardened shim, and if it sticks to the cam lobe and lifts out during an accidental overrev, things could get ugly fast. Also, any ferrous debris in the oil could end up sticking to the shim.

I don't know how much of an actual, real-life danger this is, but I figure there's no point in tempting the fates. I've got a big pair of tweezers I use for yoinking shims.

I'd never use a magnet, either. As you said, the FSM explicitly states not to use one. Like you, I have some extended-reach tweezers and needle nose pliers.
 
Good point. I hadn't considered that possibility. And yes, it seems like a cheap pair of forceps ought to do the trick just fine.

As to the zip tie vs shim tool debate, surely there are other choices besides a zip tie for holding the valve open. When I get mine apart, I'll study and see if I can come up with an alternative (but I plan to have the tool ready when I start). If I come up with anything clever, I'll post it along with a photo or two.
 
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