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Thats weak

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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after getting my gs1000L back on the road(new trans bearings) I came to the conclusion that the rear disc brake it weak can"t lock it up witch is some thing that I like, in case I need to lay her down to unload( I like to slide in stead of impacting) I checked the pads and replaced them and deglazed the rotor and flushed the system, but its still weak. My question is? is there a smaller piston master that will work with out to much hassle, so I can hydralically increase my braking pressure???
 
Have you checked the brake hoses, tried bleading the brakes, new fluid. If that doesn't help try switching to braided hoses
 
also, check the actual push-rod adjustment, and brakepedal adjustment.

I know on my 850L that I can change how it feels/works by adjusting those things.
 
brakes

brakes

Did all that stuff after I flushed it, pedal is solid as far as feel goes, system is a-1, it just lacks power like the old jeep scouts did.
 
It could be that the brake hose is balooning when pressure is applied,
loosing pressure. If everything is working it should be able to lock up the wheel
 
put a old hard tire on it, that will do the trick!!
what pads are you using?
I am running a premium ceramic set in mine and a braided stainless brake line and my rear brake is very progressive and has good feedback and will lock the back wheel up if I want it to.
I sometimes will lock it up when coming to a stop at red lights just to scare the "heck" out of the mindless zombies sipping exotic coffees talking on their cell phones.
I just love seeing them freak out, drop their phones and spill coffee in their laps when they hear the squeal of sliding rubber, sure they are about to get rear ended! :twisted: :twisted:
 
Not to be a smart ass, but take a course, MSF, so you don't have to lay it down.
Laying it down costs $$$$, the course is probably cheaper than the repairs.

But also check the hose, if it's the stock hose it's ballooning.
Have someone press the pedal while you have your hand wrapped around the hose. You'll feel it expand.

I replaced the brake hoses afew years ago with braided steel, huge difference.
 
focus frenzy said:
I just love seeing them freak out, drop their phones and spill coffee in their laps when they hear the squeal of sliding rubber, sure they are about to get rear ended! :twisted: :twisted:
Click to expand...

LEON!! You're a lunatic, .....gotta love that kinda stuff.
 
"Laying it down" still counts as crashing, and it sucks just as bad as crashing, despite what Hardley riders seem to think. Learn to use your brakes properly.

With that said, your rear brake should definitely have enough moxie to lock the rear wheel easily.

If you've already changed the fluid and bled the brakes, it's probably the brake hose as outlined above.
 
Have you checked that both calliper pistons are moving?If one has seized you'll still get some braking power and pressure at the pedal.Mebbe give the calliper itself a good overhaul?
 
smary asses

smary asses

To all you guy's that think that laying it down is stupid and I need a course need to ride over a million miles and 40 plus years as I have, I am alive and well because I learned from old pros that if you can't stop in time lay it down and climb on top, inless you think that some of the top racers in the 60's and 70s are dumb asses that I hung with and learned to ride from, every stitution is different, and requires different action, if your to chicken to lay it down and get on top, then its your lack of ability to ride, better that the bike eats it and not my body. GET PAST YOUR SELVES!!! YOUR NOT THAT GREAT
 
I've layed a bike down on numerous occasions, mostly due to my being a little over zealous and they have all been low sides. Seems that laying it down or low siding is the easiest and safest way to get off if it comes to that. But why on earth you would climb on top of a sliding motorcycle is way beyond me. I might not have 40 years riding experience but I have have 35+ and some track experience also. Most of my low sides have resulted in the bike hitting something solid and being totally destroyed while I just slid not so gracefully to a stop in much less distance in my leathers with only a few minor bumps. In all my years of riding and racing I have never heard anything as stupid as trying to stay on top of a sliding out of control motorcycle. 'Till now. And yes I KNOW HOW TO RIDE! Just my humble opinion!
 
Fact: The Coefficient of static friction rubber to road (IE: proper braking) is much, much greater than the coefficient of sliding friction between metal and road or plastic and road.

You can stop in less time by braking correctly. Laying it down just means you're giving up because you don't feel you can handle the situation with the bike under your control.

Don't be a wuss. Use them neato control systems.

(Low sides are different. Low side means you didn't mean to. A low side means you've already lost it and are now just trying to keep your body away from pointy and hard things. Make it a point to keep it away from both. That includes the bike.)
 
Re: smary asses

Re: smary asses

Gee-s-is said:
To all you guy's that think that laying it down is stupid and I need a course need to ride over a million miles and 40 plus years as I have, I am alive and well because I learned from old pros that if you can't stop in time lay it down and climb on top, inless you think that some of the top racers in the 60's and 70s are dumb asses that I hung with and learned to ride from, every stitution is different, and requires different action, if your to chicken to lay it down and get on top, then its your lack of ability to ride, better that the bike eats it and not my body. GET PAST YOUR SELVES!!! YOUR NOT THAT GREAT
Click to expand...

I'm sorry if I can't envision a situation where I'd have enough time to intentionally lay the bike down. Maybe brakes have gotten that good since the 60's and 70's, and the tires dozens of times better. It has nothing to do with being great-- I'm just relatively sure the bike stops faster on the tires than sliding on bare metal, or worse, plastic. Well... that, and I'd rather try my best shot at leaping over a car hood than sliding under one at speed.

Out of curiousity, who are these top racers you speak of?
 
ANYWAY> I think the post about regarding the brake caliper may be the most promising. If the pedal is good and firm, you may not have an expanding brake line. You could have a plugged brake line, or a line that is torn on the inside and acts like a valve cutting off pressure to the brake caliper when applied. OR as suggested the caliper piston is sticking or stuck, flexing just enough to give a little brake action. (easy to check)
If it was possible you would want a larger piston master cylinder. Pressure PSI is pounds per square inch. The larger the piston the greater the square inches the greater the pressure at the "out" end. However it may take more pedal travel and fluid due to the larger surface area and volume.
 
:!: You know at some point in almost all the discussions on this sight someone switches to criticism and snide remarks. It?s a pity that there is so much good here being ruined by a few hateful, condescending troublemakers.
 
brakes

brakes

Nert good replie, it may be an internal hose problem, smaller piston is more pressure at the caliper, psi, is pounds per Sq. inch but it is applyed pressure at the master.i.e. 50 lbs of foot pressure at the pedal on a 2 inch piston is 25 pounds per sq. inch, now cut the piston size down to 1 inch, you still have the the 50lbs. of applied pressure but now its being applied to 1 inch, so now you have 50 lbs. per sq. inch witch is greater.
 
Evil Hobbit said:
:!: You know at some point in almost all the discussions on this sight someone switches to criticism and snide remarks. It?s a pity that there is so much good here being ruined by a few hateful, condescending troublemakers.
Click to expand...

Sorry Leon! I didn't really mean to call you a lunatic. I'm so embarassed, my apologies.
 
Gees-s-is
YES! you are correct. In my haste i errored. A smaller piston will give you more pressure. However greater pedal (piston travel) stroke is required to move the same volume of fluid to move the caliper piston the same distance as the larger master cylinder piston. Substituting a larger caliper piston could give the same increase clamping force too. I believe, that there is problem with your bike, and that once the problem is solved braking will be adequate. I do not think modifing the exisitng brake system is the best solution.
good luck
nert
 
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