• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

The annoying turn signals

  • Thread starter Thread starter slyone
  • Start date Start date
S

slyone

Guest
the right turn signal lever usually has to be "cycled" 3-4 times before light comes on and flashes, drives me nuts! I checked BassCliff's mod but my relay only has 2 wire/not 3 wire, mines a 79'GS850 made 10/78 (early) but mine does have the annoying auto-cancel feature too? So, I'm not sure if that mod would work?
 
Have you concidered that the problem may be the switch itself?

Does one side work better than the other side?


.
 
Yes, left always works, right is the problem and usually will malfunction...plus I hate the auto-cancel(too early) so was very excited to see the mod on BassCliff's page:D but he's got it for the 3-wire(newer) model..:( There must be a mod for this one?
 
I believe Dave is suggesting that you may wish to investigate the contacts on the switch itself. Changing relays will not help if the switch is faulty. And I agree, I loathe all self-cancelling turn signals for exactly the same reason.
 
Sounds like that 1st Generation Turn Signal Control Unit (TSCU) to me. Was used on the '79 GS850's and '78, 79 GS1000's other than the C model. Had the same problem, drove me nuts.
Finally fixed it by replacing the TSCU, found only one fully servicable one out of about 20 I checked.
They look like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130741442006?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

There are mods out there that, but you lose that self canceling feature,
and yes they're still available new, providing you want to pay the $370 plus shipping.
Item 26 this fiche.
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1979&fveh=2141
 
so yes, I have 1st gen auto and yes I want to perform mod to remove auto-cancel..on the cheap:D That 2nd gen mod of basscliff's seems so sweet and simple. I need a simple solution cause I'm a simple guy:lol:
 
...There are mods out there that, but you lose that self canceling feature...
Steve, this is exactly what he wants anyway. If you can post a link, that would be a good thing. I was never so glad when the self-canceling "feature" broke on my GS and I could make my own decision on when to cancel. :D
 
I was under the impression if I changed my relay(2wire) with that one from autozone, my turn signals would work good and I would lose auto-function? A kinda win/win solution for less than $50.00..:)
 
I was under the impression if I changed my relay(2wire) with that one from autozone, my turn signals would work good and I would lose auto-function? A kinda win/win solution for less than $50.00..:)

I really like to verify that for you, but I didn't have to modify my bike in anyway, just found a good TSCU, however if you PM "rustybronco" on this I'm sure he'll have an answer for you.
 
I'll pm rusty, I don't want to buy a "used tscu" and I certainly won't buy a new one, cause I can't afford it..:(
just a simple/low cost/solid remedy is what I'm after:D
 
And, if needed, for the pre-80 bar controls:

It's not exactly a tutorial, but it'll show you the guts of the matter. If your bar control is as nasty inside as this one was, the only surprise is that it works at all.

You'll also see the horn contacts, a weak spot on most of these bikes. Note that you have to polish the top & bottom coil of the spring as well, because current has to flow through it; lots of ways for resistance to add up, and it's why bikes this old will have non-functional or pathetic horns without using a relay.

Anyway, this era of bar control is a bunch simpler than many others. Don't feel too afraid to dig in.
 
And, if needed, for the pre-80 bar controls:

It's not exactly a tutorial, but it'll show you the guts of the matter. If your bar control is as nasty inside as this one was, the only surprise is that it works at all.

You'll also see the horn contacts, a weak spot on most of these bikes. Note that you have to polish the top & bottom coil of the spring as well, because current has to flow through it; lots of ways for resistance to add up, and it's why bikes this old will have non-functional or pathetic horns without using a relay.

Anyway, this era of bar control is a bunch simpler than many others. Don't feel too afraid to dig in.
Oh that's funny bout the horns cause after disturbing them w/valve adj. my horns now sound like a model T Ford for some reason?!!lol well not actually funny:(
 
Yes, left always works, right is the problem and usually will malfunction...plus I hate the auto-cancel(too early) so was very excited to see the mod on BassCliff's page:D but he's got it for the 3-wire(newer) model..:( There must be a mod for this one?

You say the left always works, the right usally doesnt work, but if try it 4 -5 times can get it to work. I would concider that to intermittent.

Reason I suspect the switch is this:

The control unit is electronic. Electronics are seldom intermittent, maybe they are temperature dpendant, will work when cool and fail when warm, but seldome intermittent. Usally when it fails, it is going to stay that way and never work again.

The switch is electro-mechanical. Electro-mechanical can be intermittent. SOme contact doesnt quite make up right, but if you just happen to mov e it in some particular way, then it does work.

.
 
I disassembled bar switch and found a surprising amout of what I believe to be corrosion on the contacts board so I wiped it clean and used a pencil eraser to clean further...maybe that was it? Ya think I should get any spray or special grease for it before reassembly? ps. sorry about the oof poor pic
 
Last edited:
Reason I suspect the switch is this:

The control unit is electronic. Electronics are seldom intermittent, maybe they are temperature dpendant, will work when cool and fail when warm, but seldome intermittent. Usally when it fails, it is going to stay that way and never work again.

I totally agree with your diagnostic analysis, which is why mine drove me crazy. I had an almost identical problem however it was with my left blinker. Still I can't dismiss the fact that when I replaced that Turn Signal Control Unit the problem went away, and when I reinstalled the old one the problem came back. So.................... lets just hope in this case you're correct. I do believe there are relays in that unit that "hang up" "stick" or otherwise misbehave.
 
Radio Shack sells and electronic cleaner and lubricant. Should do the trick. Can't really see anything in the picture, sorry.
 
First, I'd really, really recommend pulling the bar control from the bike.

Don't rely on spray products; if you need to, you can use starter spray or brake cleaner to get the original lubricant (now something like earwax, or adhesive candle wax) out of there.

Just get a terry cloth and some metal polish. Chrome polish will do in a pinch. Slather some on and rub until those little copper pads are just as shiny as can be. Repeat with every contact in there, and see my comment about the horn spring.

For this application, a variable-speed Dremel with the hard buffing wheel is worth its weight in Dremel parts.

You can use a Q-tip and put a dab of lithium grease on the slider that works back & forth to make/break left and right. Also on the topside of the headlight on/off switch. Otherwise, avoid lube unless you have some actual contact spray.
 
Steve, this is exactly what he wants anyway. If you can post a link, that would be a good thing. I was never so glad when the self-canceling "feature" broke on my GS and I could make my own decision on when to cancel. :D

I know some folks don't like self canceling, but I've been through it with my bike, and you often (at least I did) forget that you're driving around with your turn signal still on because you forgot to turn it off. The fact it not's real obvious to the rider in bright daylight.
 
I cleaned all the contacts, including horn button one, figured I'd just put it back together to try it...but guess what? Yea, I forgot how all that little stuff goes back together:-s I found a 3rd spring on the seat-where'd that come from! Then I noticed a wavy washer in housing? maybe from horn? I believe the smallest spring resides under that contact which sits into the white piece and the next 1 goes in the back of it horizontally...?

I just referenced Bob's horn pics and yes, I am correct on spring placement...but what about that wavy washer?? edit-Oh I see, that goes under signal arm at pivot point:)

Holy crap Bob, you really went to town cleaning up that switch! and your bike looks like it never left the showroom!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top