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surviverguy
Guest
Just bought one of these mini voltmeters-WATERPROOF! Only $8.40...to mount above gear indicators...waiting for delivery from China.
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Just bought one of these mini voltmeters-WATERPROOF! Only $8.40...to mount above gear indicators...waiting for delivery from China.
G
Guest
Guest
Wire it into any power and ground in the cluster.
I used the ground from the high beam light and power from the oil pressure light.
Since the power side of the high beam is switched, the ground is there all the time.
And since the ground is switched for the oil pressure, the power is always there with key on.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mini-Lithium-Battery-Digital-Voltmeter-dc-3-3v-17V-Blue-LED-Panel-Meter-12v?item=180861130625&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9165989014061183566
Easy to work with and cheap.
Could have cut a hole where the L is as well for a larger gauge.
I used the ground from the high beam light and power from the oil pressure light.
Since the power side of the high beam is switched, the ground is there all the time.
And since the ground is switched for the oil pressure, the power is always there with key on.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mini-Lithium-Battery-Digital-Voltmeter-dc-3-3v-17V-Blue-LED-Panel-Meter-12v?item=180861130625&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9165989014061183566
Easy to work with and cheap.
Could have cut a hole where the L is as well for a larger gauge.
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surviverguy
Guest
Mekanix- I like how you did that. I'm gonna order one of those also. Cheap enough at $5.00...My cluster is different. I'm not sure if I can find a place for it. When it's in my hands I'll study the possibilities. Thanks for posting that!
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surviverguy
Guest
My console looks like this-
It would be nice to have the small digital readout voltmeter inside the console like Mekanix did to his, but I don't see any place to put it. I'm thinking the waterproof one either below the console near where the brake cable is or above the gear indicators. The voltmeter weighs next to nothing. Maybe I'll just rivet a bracket to the front of the console to hold the voltmeter? Maybe I'll make a bracket which wraps around the front using the console mounting bolts? Anybody tried this before? What worked or didn't? Any recommendations or any photo examples?
It would be nice to have the small digital readout voltmeter inside the console like Mekanix did to his, but I don't see any place to put it. I'm thinking the waterproof one either below the console near where the brake cable is or above the gear indicators. The voltmeter weighs next to nothing. Maybe I'll just rivet a bracket to the front of the console to hold the voltmeter? Maybe I'll make a bracket which wraps around the front using the console mounting bolts? Anybody tried this before? What worked or didn't? Any recommendations or any photo examples?
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surviverguy
Guest
Just tested the charging system briefly- 14 VDC on the voltmeter! Yahoo!
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surviverguy
Guest
It's ready to have it's seat put back on and the side covers- and test ride soon!
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surviverguy
Guest
"It" got a new SS brake hose today
"It" got the fuel tank and side covers put on. Charging at 14 volts. Ready for a first test ride!
"It" got the fuel tank and side covers put on. Charging at 14 volts. Ready for a first test ride!
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surviverguy
Guest
"It" needs a name. Maybe it'll come to me on the ride (name)?
G
Guest
Guest
There's no way you'll fit a seven segment display in the stock console on the E/S models, the L's and T's appear to have alot more spare room.
There's a 5mm version of what I put on mine that might be able to squeeze in to the left or right of the oil pressure light:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5mm-LED-12v...104?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eb6be3fd0
Mine was easy though, custom dash and the 10mm LED version (it's orange because the bike's not running):
Good work on the brake line and she's looking good!
Mine doesn't have a name either... just the 450 or the Zuk or the Suzuki does it for me... but then again I've never named a vehicle...
There's a 5mm version of what I put on mine that might be able to squeeze in to the left or right of the oil pressure light:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5mm-LED-12v...104?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eb6be3fd0
Mine was easy though, custom dash and the 10mm LED version (it's orange because the bike's not running):
Good work on the brake line and she's looking good!
Mine doesn't have a name either... just the 450 or the Zuk or the Suzuki does it for me... but then again I've never named a vehicle...
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surviverguy
Guest
That's a very cool- modern console you put togethor there Pete.
I'm kinda "oldschool" and like my traditional (stock) gauges. A fuel gauge would be nice...., but I've never had a fuel gauge on a bike before so it's not really needed for me. I'll add a switch also for the four way flashers when I add the voltmeter in a couple weeks when I get my Chinese delivery.
I'm kinda "oldschool" and like my traditional (stock) gauges. A fuel gauge would be nice...., but I've never had a fuel gauge on a bike before so it's not really needed for me. I'll add a switch also for the four way flashers when I add the voltmeter in a couple weeks when I get my Chinese delivery.
G
Guest
Guest
Thanks mate, it turned out well. After cleaning and lubing the stock gauges and replacing cables I was still getting lots of needle bounce so I had to do something.
I really wanted a traditional style gauge setup but the prices were prohibitive and I would've had to work out gearing ratio etc. for the cheaper ones so I went with the Acewell as the simplest and most cost effective solution.
The dash was mainly so I could retain the stock gear position indicator and add the voltage monitor. To me it's somewhat of a Buck Rogers modern solution...
The fuel gauge just sits there flashing empty, although one day I might add a resistor so it sits at full instead if I can be bothered. If i knew I was adding the Acewell before the bike was finished I would've added a fuel gauge before doing the tank liner. As it is I don't have one either...
Four way flashers is a good idea too and is something I don't have either... you may have given me another idea there
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surviverguy
Guest
The four way flashers can be wired a couple of ways...I used a double pole switch so left and right are seperated. Two regular toggles could be used (L + R). I used a 2nd flasher unit for redundancy even though it's possible to use just one flasher unit.
4 way flashers are good for safety! Go for it.
4 way flashers are good for safety! Go for it.
G
Guest
Guest
I might have a look while I'm adding the aux power socket... got all the parts for it here but haven't done it yet...
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surviverguy
Guest
Took it out for it's first ride today.
First about three trips up and down my driveway, then about three trips up and down my street, then a tour of the area keeping within 10 miles of home. I guess it was about a 30 or 40 mile ride. The bike and I are getting used to each other. For a little two cylinder she's can really fly!
I'm sure she's not jetted perfectly- but neither of us complained. She pops a little (softly) on deceleration.... and for some reason I have to turn the idle screw down at stops- otherwise she's turning 3K rpm. I think the knob moves while riding?
I'll have to confirm that all the washers and bits are in order for the idle screw....And she could use a windscreen for over 60 MPH...only took her up to 65 mph today...I'd guess she'd do 100mph, but I'll never go past 85mph....
First about three trips up and down my driveway, then about three trips up and down my street, then a tour of the area keeping within 10 miles of home. I guess it was about a 30 or 40 mile ride. The bike and I are getting used to each other. For a little two cylinder she's can really fly!
I'm sure she's not jetted perfectly- but neither of us complained. She pops a little (softly) on deceleration.... and for some reason I have to turn the idle screw down at stops- otherwise she's turning 3K rpm. I think the knob moves while riding?
I'll have to confirm that all the washers and bits are in order for the idle screw....And she could use a windscreen for over 60 MPH...only took her up to 65 mph today...I'd guess she'd do 100mph, but I'll never go past 85mph....
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Seana23
Guest
Hi babes.
She looks the buisness.
Well done.
Nice revvy engine eh?
Xxx
She looks the buisness.
Well done.
Nice revvy engine eh?
Xxx
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surviverguy
Guest
Revy? heck yeah...3-5 Krpm she's perky...6-9 KRPM she's like a bat out of hell....at 9krpm in 4th gear she's movin' right along...(60ish mph)...just getting used to ridin' her...didn't push it too hard today as I didn't want to get pulled over on my first ride.... or loose control in a twistie!
She's just a little 450, but she's plenty of bike for me....I'm very happy today....
and want to put a windscreen on!
.....and do some proper plug chops.
I Just took the plugs out to see what they looked like after the ride. They're in the ballpark...right side looks a hair rich and left side looks a hair lean...currently jetted with 25 pilots and 125 mains...
She's just a little 450, but she's plenty of bike for me....I'm very happy today....
and want to put a windscreen on!
.....and do some proper plug chops.
I Just took the plugs out to see what they looked like after the ride. They're in the ballpark...right side looks a hair rich and left side looks a hair lean...currently jetted with 25 pilots and 125 mains...
G
Guest
Guest
Mate it's good to see her out and about! Nice 
I find my 450 has plenty of poke for what I want... had a look at the Acewell today and max rev's is 10K on the dot and max speed is... ummm I'm not sayin' in case I get in trouble
With your idle screw, does it have a spring on it?
Also, if it's not warmed up 100%, forget even trying to adjust your idle.
When I rode mine to get registered, it was the first time I'd gotten true heat into the motor as I'd only run it briefly a few times before that. I got about a km up the road and had to pull over and wind the idle down as it was idling at about 4K RPM due to me adjusting the idle when she was still cold.
I had to knock it back even further later on after she'd warmed up fully.
I find my 450 has plenty of poke for what I want... had a look at the Acewell today and max rev's is 10K on the dot and max speed is... ummm I'm not sayin' in case I get in trouble
With your idle screw, does it have a spring on it?
Also, if it's not warmed up 100%, forget even trying to adjust your idle.
When I rode mine to get registered, it was the first time I'd gotten true heat into the motor as I'd only run it briefly a few times before that. I got about a km up the road and had to pull over and wind the idle down as it was idling at about 4K RPM due to me adjusting the idle when she was still cold.
I had to knock it back even further later on after she'd warmed up fully.
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surviverguy
Guest
The bike ran well enough to give me the confidence to run it to work and home. It's a long ride....100 mile roundtrip.
I've found the idle screw is too much trouble to keep adjusting according to temperature. I'm just leaving it set for a proper hot idle and keeping it from stalling with a slight bit of throttle when cold. It doesn't take long to warm up. The bike starts without any choke needed.
I have a spare carb already dipped and ready for assembly. I'm gonna make a few changes from how the one on the bike is and then synchronize it and then do some plug chops. I don't have another pair of 25/125 jets. I'm gonna try one size smaller on both and raise the needles a bit. The midrange form about 1/3rd to 2/3rds throttle is a little rough.
I'd like a rear rack in black color. I think I'll weld something togethor as I haven't seen any aftermarket or used racks that would work good with the odd sloping angled back (over the toolbox area).
The fork seals are weeping slightly. I have some new seals to put in. I was waiting till after some rides to do those seals in case I wanted to add progressive springs at the same time. I am a lightweight rider and the suspension feels great as is...so no progressives and I can buy a new windscreen instead.
The brakes feel great also. No changes needed there.
The mirror fix worked out good enough, but I'll buy another perch when I see one cheap. The tachometer is a little bouncy but not too bad. The speedometer reads smooth and accurite. The odometer also works good. The tripodometer is all out of whack...showing about 10x the actual trip miles. I'll see if I can figure out a correction factor to use...
SO all in all very happy and still getting it better.
I've found the idle screw is too much trouble to keep adjusting according to temperature. I'm just leaving it set for a proper hot idle and keeping it from stalling with a slight bit of throttle when cold. It doesn't take long to warm up. The bike starts without any choke needed.
I have a spare carb already dipped and ready for assembly. I'm gonna make a few changes from how the one on the bike is and then synchronize it and then do some plug chops. I don't have another pair of 25/125 jets. I'm gonna try one size smaller on both and raise the needles a bit. The midrange form about 1/3rd to 2/3rds throttle is a little rough.
I'd like a rear rack in black color. I think I'll weld something togethor as I haven't seen any aftermarket or used racks that would work good with the odd sloping angled back (over the toolbox area).
The fork seals are weeping slightly. I have some new seals to put in. I was waiting till after some rides to do those seals in case I wanted to add progressive springs at the same time. I am a lightweight rider and the suspension feels great as is...so no progressives and I can buy a new windscreen instead.
The brakes feel great also. No changes needed there.
The mirror fix worked out good enough, but I'll buy another perch when I see one cheap. The tachometer is a little bouncy but not too bad. The speedometer reads smooth and accurite. The odometer also works good. The tripodometer is all out of whack...showing about 10x the actual trip miles. I'll see if I can figure out a correction factor to use...
SO all in all very happy and still getting it better.
G
Guest
Guest
Great stuff! Good to hear it 
I didn't mean you should adjust your idle screw constantly... just set it once when it's completely warmed up and from then on use your choke while you warm her up for a minute or two then you should be good to go.
She'll start without the choke but won't idle until at least a little warm.
I typically start mine on choke and leave the choke on while I put my helmet and gloves on, then choke off and head for work.
I didn't mean you should adjust your idle screw constantly... just set it once when it's completely warmed up and from then on use your choke while you warm her up for a minute or two then you should be good to go.
She'll start without the choke but won't idle until at least a little warm.
I typically start mine on choke and leave the choke on while I put my helmet and gloves on, then choke off and head for work.
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surviverguy
Guest
Pete, thanks for explaining the choke operation. I'll try using it when the engine is too cold to idle without adding some throttle. I've only used the bike three times now and it hadn't occured to me to try the choke (since it would start fine without it).
I'm considering adding a trunk to the rear of the bike. The purpose would be mostly to hold my lunch on my way to work and a place to store my helmet. On my first and only commute, lunch was in a shoulder bag resting behind me on the seat. It worked ok like that and I carried my helmet to and from the "office". There is a helmet lock on the bike. I haven't tried using that yet. The helmet is nice and new.
There are lots of cheap ABS plastic trunks available but I am suspect of their durability- one or two years down the road. A fiberglass trunk would hold up much better. Either way a trunk will need support and that's a bit awkward with the factory rear and seat lock arrangement which I'd like to keep.
Rear racks commonly use the upper shock mounting stud. I'd like to avoid using them since it makes shock removal and rear wheel removal more troublesome. Lunch and helmet don't weight very much. I'm tinking about modifying the rear grab handle to make a rear rack/trunk support...
SO many little things I'd like to do- so little time and money!
I'm considering adding a trunk to the rear of the bike. The purpose would be mostly to hold my lunch on my way to work and a place to store my helmet. On my first and only commute, lunch was in a shoulder bag resting behind me on the seat. It worked ok like that and I carried my helmet to and from the "office". There is a helmet lock on the bike. I haven't tried using that yet. The helmet is nice and new.
There are lots of cheap ABS plastic trunks available but I am suspect of their durability- one or two years down the road. A fiberglass trunk would hold up much better. Either way a trunk will need support and that's a bit awkward with the factory rear and seat lock arrangement which I'd like to keep.
Rear racks commonly use the upper shock mounting stud. I'd like to avoid using them since it makes shock removal and rear wheel removal more troublesome. Lunch and helmet don't weight very much. I'm tinking about modifying the rear grab handle to make a rear rack/trunk support...
SO many little things I'd like to do- so little time and money!
