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The Return of the Charging System

  • Thread starter Thread starter MikeG
  • Start date Start date
M

MikeG

Guest
(separating this from my other thread)

All right, starting with the stator papers and need some guidance please!
2516666745_236f149ce3.jpg


I'm holding the 5 wires coming from the r/r mounted on the down tube. 3 yellow, one red and one black.

Rev'ed engine, less than14.8v, on to step two

black multi lead to positive, red to red RR wire (see pictures in link) I get -.02v Is Negative what I'm supposed to be getting?

red lead to positive, black lead to black wire I get 0 volts. The black wire goes to the phillips screw holding the starter relay on. I cannot get that bloody screw off, gonna hit it with some wd40 and a pair of vise grips in a minute.

2517485906_0ca1c46b95.jpg


Is that black wire the one that is supposed to go to the negative terminal?

When I test the stator leads I get nothing, nada, zip. This is a good industrial multimeter from work ( a Johnstone clamp type with leads as well)

UPDATE: I tested the stator leads with them still attached, going to cut the connections and retry, then install the new spade connectors I got in a few minutes.

Do I need a new stator?

As a reference, when I have the battery tender attached, I pass step one with flying colors.
 
Cooking with electrons

Cooking with electrons

Hi Mr. MikeG,

How much less than 14.8v? If you're getting more than 14v DC at the battery terminals while running at 3000-4000rpm then you're in the ballpark. Just move your r/r ground wire to the negative terminal of the battery, clean up all your other grounds and electrical connections, and retest. You should be good to go. See my website for picture guides that supplement the Stator Papers.

I think the active tests (and clean connections) are more important. The passive tests can definitely tell you if you have a problem. But when troubleshooting my bike in the past, it has passed all the passive tests and still had a charging issue.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
OK here's what I get after attaching the black wire to the negative terminal.

Idle 12.45v

2500 12.54v

5000v 12.72v
 
Are you sure you have the meter set to measure AC when checking the stator output? With readings like that at the battery, your stator is doing something. Its output might be substandard, but it won't be zero.
 
Sounds like you're testing voltage at the battery, which is fine to test the charging system in general. Clearly, there is no charging going on. Next thing to do is check the AC voltage at each stator leg - this should show whether or not the stator is fried or the R/R.

Stator Papers is your friend.:) http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm
 
Hi,

Those are really lousy AC voltage output numbers from your stator. When you test the stator, are you measuring between outputs 1-2, 2-3, then 1-3? Just to be clear, you do not measure between individual legs and ground, or anything else. Measure each combination pair of stator legs. I show you how here.

Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BC is right, and look at his pics to make sure you are checking correctly. I'm only getting 45v AC out of mine at 5000 which is considered very, very marginal. Anything less and the stator is toast, and probably the R/R unit too.
 
Put new connectors on and a new multimeter and I finally have some consistent results.

Not good results, but consistent. Testing the Stator resistance I get

.5

59.5

59.5

So two legs are bad, I'll be ordering a new one next week when I get paid. Till then it's riding with the light off during the day and plugging the bike whenever I stop.


No chance anyone in the Chicago area has one lying around for an 82 GS750?

I think I will upgrade the r/r with the honda 6 wire one I have when I do this.
 
Success! I did the swap of the r/r and the stator last Saturday and just checked my voltage at the terminals over my lunch break. I'm getting a solid and consistent 14.89 from 2500-5K. \\:D/

A couple notes:

Where the stator wires come out on my 16v TSCC engine from underneath the starter cover, they also go under the cover that the shifter goes through so I had to loosen up all those bolts and remove my shift lever. Getting the bolts back on that cover was the absolute hardest part of the job. They just did NOT want to line up. This differs from BassCliff's instructions where the wire is routed along the top of that cover and is held in place with wire connectors.

I put dielectric grease on all the connectors, that made a noticeable difference in the headlight brightness right away.

I've got an annoying rattle buzz at 3-3200 RPM, I think it's the new connectors for the r/r , going to wrap them in some rubber and ziptie tighter see if that fixes it.

I ended up with the wires not being as pretty as I would like but it works well for now. The next rainy weekend will see me pulling the wires and replacing them all with hard soldered and crimped connectors, then wrapping everything in the extra wiring harness rubbers I salvaged from an old Honda harness I had laying around.

Not now though, too sunny out, time to ride!

Oh, the bracket for my slipstreamer fiaring cracked when Iwas taking it off, anyone have luck JB Welding that back on? The pad on the windshield separated from the bracket that mounts to the bars. I do prefer the look of the bike with it off, but it makes a BIG difference in comfort.
 
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