This is why No3 cylinder wasnt firing....

[XTlegend]

Oh another question . 3 out of the 4 engine inlet rubbers came off their mounts when I removed the carbs the other day. They arnt cracked and appear in good condition. So I’m thinking I’ll stick them back on but with what? Normal adhesive like 'evostick' or an epoxy?

 

[Larry D]

Oh another question . 3 out of the 4 engine inlet rubbers came off their mounts when I removed the carbs the other day. They arnt cracked and appear in good condition. So I?m thinking I?ll stick them back on but with what? Normal adhesive like 'evostick' or an epoxy?

Put them back on with a whole lot of nothing. Just good clamps.

 

[mighty13d]

I think he means that they came apart like this: In which case, you can't simply just put it back together

 

[Larry D]

Sorry, my bad.....Can't help with that one. Me don't have those there kind of intake manifolds.

 

[mighty13d]

I think that disintegrating intake boots was an option on these!

 

[Ola]

That carb looks bad...but bad is relative. GSR member Russr33 gave me some carbs that sat with water in them and some of the float posts had literally disolved, as in gone.
*snip*

aaaaaAAAAAAAaaaaaaaa

I hate looking at that. Maybe it's humanizing these objects, maybe it's a weird hang up but I get the same response as when I look at those "strange diseases of the skin" pics that I always regret clicking.

 

[XTlegend]

I think he means that they came apart like this: In which case, you can't simply just put it back together

Yes thats right - so why cant I stick them back together when clearly they were stuck together when made?

 

[Big T]

Because the rubber has deteriorated

That's just one big air leak per intake boot

You'll be surprised how much better your bike will run once you replace them

 

[XTlegend]

Because the rubber has deteriorated

That's just one big air leak per intake boot

You'll be surprised how much better your bike will run once you replace them

But the rubber hasnt deteriorated - no cracks etc. They have simply parted from their mounts. So if I give the mating surfaces a good clean with wire wool and solvent they should fix on with an adhesive/epoxy fine. In theory anyway.

 

[Big T]

But the rubber hasnt deteriorated - no cracks etc. They have simply parted from their mounts. So if I give the mating surfaces a good clean with wire wool and solvent they should fix on with an adhesive/epoxy fine. In theory anyway.

If they haven't deteriorated, you should be able to easily touch the sides together with a squeeze.

But, by definition, since they fell apart, they've deteriorated.

You can certainly try to glue them back together. But chances are you'll be chasing problems from a repair.

Sometimes, putting money into your bike gives you the chance to ride it rather than wrench on. Intake boots are at the top of that list.

 

[mighty13d]

A good epoxy would be good in a pinch until you can get your hands on a new set of boots, but i wouldn't suggest trying to use them permanently.

 

[snowbeard]

I've seen a lot of gummy, gooey intake boots on bikes in the junkyard. I would only assume that it was a big part of the issue.

do they still sell these? I think I need them as well...

 

[XTlegend]

I've seen a lot of gummy, gooey intake boots on bikes in the junkyard. I would only assume that it was a big part of the issue.

do they still sell these? I think I need them as well...

They do - but in my case 4 new ones would almost cost what I paid for the whole bike!!

Update - this is really why No 3 cylinder wasnt firing, I give you the needle jet! ;-)

 

[mighty13d]

looks like a sea cucumber! YAY for finding the reason!

 

[mike-s]

EWWWWWW!!

kind of looks like the emulsion tube i had on my gsx250 before i stripped all the brass parts out and soaked them for 24+ hours.

 

[XTlegend]

Oh well, weeks have passed by and No3 cylinder still isn't running correctly. I invested in new inlet rubbers bye the way.

Anyway I'm getting ready to run this bike off a cliff top.

I have meticulously followed the excellent guides on dismantling and cleaning the BS32's and I can guarantee that none of the passageways are blocked. To refresh, No3 exhaust pipe gets hot when the choke is on but cools off (you can touch the pipe with bare hand) when off. I have studied and understand how the start, slow and main sections of the carb work and all passage ways are clear. And yet there is clearly no fuel getting through at idle or open throttle - the spark plug still looks like new and is dry Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[reddirtrider]

Oh well, weeks have passed by and No3 cylinder still isn't running correctly. I invested in new inlet rubbers bye the way.

Anyway I'm getting ready to run this bike off a cliff top.

I have meticulously followed the excellent guides on dismantling and cleaning the BS32's and I can guarantee that none of the passageways are blocked. To refresh, No3 exhaust pipe gets hot when the choke is on but cools off (you can touch the pipe with bare hand) when off. I have studied and understand how the start, slow and main sections of the carb work and all passage ways are clear. And yet there is clearly no fuel getting through at idle or open throttle - the spark plug still looks like new and is dry Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sounds like you need to balance the carbs.

 

[XTlegend]

Sounds like you need to balance the carbs.

Errrrrrrrrrrr what exactly has balancing the carbs got to do with the slow and main circuits inside each carb? There is no fuel getting into the cylinder at any throttle opening. The only part of No3 carb that seems to be working is the choke. With that on the cylinder fires.

 

[hampshirehog]

At the risk of me sounding stupid.....
1. Are all the linkages connected up?
2. If they are, when you open the butterflies do all the slides lift equally? ('Perfectly' equally when balanced, though 'equal to the eye' will get you a runner).
3. Have you got decent compression on No 3?

If the answer to all 3 is 'yes' the only thing left is a blockage somewhere. If this looks likely, don't beat up on it - you have to be really, really careful all the way on the fuel system on these bikes - a tiny bit of sh*t somewhere (left in the pipe etc) will block things up.

If you can get it to run reasonably well enough to ride and can get it down to my place I can help you out with a carb synch / mixture setting.

 

[XTlegend]

At the risk of me sounding stupid.....
1. Are all the linkages connected up?
2. If they are, when you open the butterflies do all the slides lift equally? ('Perfectly' equally when balanced, though 'equal to the eye' will get you a runner).
3. Have you got decent compression on No 3?

If the answer to all 3 is 'yes' the only thing left is a blockage somewhere. If this looks likely, don't beat up on it - you have to be really, really careful all the way on the fuel system on these bikes - a tiny bit of sh*t somewhere (left in the pipe etc) will block things up.

If you can get it to run reasonably well enough to ride and can get it down to my place I can help you out with a carb synch / mixture setting.

I might take you up on that - took it for a 4 mile ride yesterday in the hope that things would clear up. Visually they look in sync - but what has this got to do with running on idle?? All pipes should get hot on idle with the throttle closed right? No 3 is cold initally then gets warm due to conduction from the head I guess. However if I start the bike from cold with choke ON then No 3 pipe gets hot otherwise cold. This implies compression is OK no?