Time to replace the clutch... Suggestions?

[DirtDiver]

Hey guys,

So it's time to finally replace the clutch in my custom build. Not sure what I'm going to find in there since I bought the bike second hand in a very bad condition. But I've been replacing engine related stuff as I need it since the engine ran.

What I've got is a 1978 GS750. I asked a local mechanic to quote me a price on what he can get, which he came back with a KG High performance kit (friction plate, steel plate and springs ) for about $109.

Before I jump on bike bandit and dig around, have you guys had better luck with some companies than others or combinations of parts from manufacturers or anything else to note?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Steve]

Are you SURE you need to replace the whole clutch? :-k

What are your symptoms and what leads you to think so? :-k

Most often, all that is necessary is to replace the springs. About $20 for springs, another $10 for the gasket. :encouragement:

.

 

[DirtDiver]

Yeeeah.. something doesn't feel right with it. Like it's unable to catch gear around 3rd and 4th gear. The problem happens usually around 4k RPM in 4th gear it then winds up real fast to 5k but no additional increase in speed.

However now the problem is presenting itself as early as 3rd gear.

It wouldn't surprise me if I need to replace it. I just replaced both points on it and just had the carbs retuned (I live in an apartment with no garage, so some wrenching I can do, other stuff.. not so much )

 

[Redman]

... ...... it then winds up real fast to 5k but no additional increase in speed.............

Yep, good symptom of clutch slipping.
Replace the friction plates and the springs (stock springs) and I suspect you fill be amazed at your new bike (well, acts like a new bike). Almost like have to learn to drive it all over again. Will then realise was slipping more than you knew, especailly at take off from a stop.

THere are specs on how thin the friction plates can be worn before need to replace them. But on our old bikes the problem is often not that they are worn thin but the materail is hard and not as tacky as should be from the heat of slipping and general use. Replace the friction plates and the springs, will be quite different.

I would say "stock" springs, if you get the heavy-duty-high-performance springs, those are meant for racing and you probably will not like the lever force required.

 

[DirtDiver]

Agreed. I wouldn't want my clutch lever pull to be any stiffer. But I do hope it smooths out the bike. Honestly the carbs have been a nightmare for me, I'm into my second set to find enough functioning parts , and now onto my second mechanic who states he can tune them up. Fingers crossed that the new guy works out.

 

[Nessism]

As Steve said, most likely a new set of stock springs will fix it up. A new OEM clutch cable is also highly recommended. It's a revelation to most guys when they replace the cable because they didn't realize the old one was so worn.

 

[DirtDiver]

But wouldn't it just make it better overall to replace the whole setup? In terms of parts cost, you're talking about $50ish dollars to just have peace of mind for replacing the whole system as opposed to $30 for a maybe fix. Either way, you open that side up and it's still an oil drain and filter change to clean it all up.

Do you guys have a company you like for the clutch, or just stick OEM?

 

[Steve]

Not sure where you are shopping, but you might be in for a bit of sticker shock. :-k

Parts Outlaw is one of our favorite OEM sources. According to the parts fiche (click the link), there are 8 fiber disks at $15.74 each and 7 steel disks at $8.02 each. Add in the six recommended springs at $1.48 each and the gasket at $15.76, you have a total of $206.70 for your version of "peace of mind".

Unless the bike has been raced and/or abused, you will likely only need to get the springs (8.88) and the gasket (15.76). You don't even need to drain the oil, just leave the bike on the side stand.

Oh, forgot to add the cable, that is $15.57.

All in for the springs, gasket and cable is $40.21. Add the $4.99 shipping, your total is a whopping $45.20.

Hope your mechanic is also willing to clean and rebuild the carbs. Simply tuning might not work if they are dirty.

.

 

[DirtDiver]

I'll look into the plates again, but that seems way higher than what I've found on bikebandit even. Like I said he was able to get a kit for 109 which had everything but the gasket, and on BB I found the plates and discs for about $70 in total as well.

As for the carbs , they are clean, both sets I stripped down to empty bodies , dipped, and cleaned thoroughly replacing with new rings and gaskets.

I'll keep digging around for the clutch stuff but since the mechanic is going to be messing with carbs on Monday for tuning I'll talk with him about opening the side and checking out the extent of the clutch. If I can get by with just springs cable and gasket I'll be happier than sourcing the rest of the mess.

As for abuse, prior owner did abuse it I'm pretty sure. Had an oversized rear sprocket rear tire was slightly bent among other signs of neglect.

 

[Guest]

PERSONALLY, I would just do the springs at first. Easy, cheap job, an hour tops. Chances are it will fix it. You don't even have to drop the oil to do it. If it doesn't fix it, it is easy to go in again to do the rest. Buuuut... since it seems you are using a mechanic....cost must not be an issue. If you are doing the plates, I would go for oem over aftermarket, regardless of cost.

 

[DirtDiver]

Cost is of course a thing to consider. I use the mechanic when I have to considering I'm lacking a garage and some specialty tools. Also I'm in South Texas on the Mexican border where currently "cool" is 100, more often than not it's 109 outside. It's not fun. So wrenching in the daylight hours sucks enough to use a mechanic sometimes.

I ended up grabbing springs and ordering EBC friction plates with a new gasket. The steel plates I'll see if I need to rough them up or leave as is.

Worst case scenario, I've just refreshed my clutch stuff for some extra coin. Best case, I just needed springs and I've got the friction plates for when I need to replace the clutch .

As for those commenting on clutch cable , I don't need that, the cable is in a good condition with no damage or visible issues.

 

[Steve]

I ended up grabbing springs and ordering EBC friction plates with a new gasket.

As for those commenting on clutch cable , I don't need that, the cable is in a good condition with no damage or visible issues.

Just out of curiosity, ... what springs did you "grab"?

I also noticed that you are not following up on suggestions to stay with OEM and are also ignoring the suggestion to purchase a new cable. You started the thread asking for suggestions, then ignored them all.

I'll just say "good luck with your project" and keep an eye out for future posts about cables and other clutch issues. :-\\\

.

 

[DirtDiver]

Honestly I've had more issues with OEM pieces than aftermarket on this bike. From failed stators to other tidbits. And the less I can rely on OEM the better. Some of the parts are drying up, or over priced and to rely on that isn't something I'd like if I can find aftermarket that is just as good if not better.

Even my electric is a stripped down and simplified setup with moto-gadget and lipo battery. Just so I could get away from that cluttered mess.

I haven't ignored the suggestions, just chose to go a different route. When I started this thread I was looking mainly for brands that you guys had been using to swap things out and what would be better (again, not uncommon for people to be ditching oem products from this old of a bike).

Appreciate the feedback, I'll keep it in mind.

 

[Rob S.]

purchase a new cable.

Can't hurt to have a spare (oem, of course).

Few years ago I'm a good few miles from home and I said to somebody, "My cable's about to break. I'll be lucky to make it home." I thought I was being overly dramatic.

I'm 100% certain I can ride the bike miles, hours, shifting up and down without the clutch. Except... Stop signs & red lights. We got dozens, maybe more than a hundred here in New York City.

Can't start it in gear, like my '68 Camaro, because you gotta have the clutch pulled in to send electricity to the starter.

It snapped just as I rolled into my garage.:encouragement::encouragement:

 

[Baatfam]

...(again, not uncommon for people to be ditching oem products from this old of a bike).

Actually, it is very uncommon on these particular old bikes.

Some aftermarket parts are better. Suspension stuff, for example, but wear parts? Nope!
OEM is usually best.

But hey....Play your bets, and take your chances....I good ITYS, can be fun...

 

[Cipher]

cables most often die slow stretchy stretchy single strand at a time failure till its all just too much.
A slippery new cable is a stunning thing even in a scenario without any horrible things happening.

Also no need to get into the cases. OEM manual AHEM OEM! will have the correct specs for testing all the perishable components of the system I think theres a basscliff website somewhere.

 

[Guest]

OEM manual AHEM OEM! will have the correct specs for testing all the perishable components of the system ...

Nope. He has already expressed disdain for OEM and prefers aftermarket.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Honestly I've had more issues with OEM pieces than aftermarket on this bike. From failed stators to other tidbits. And the less I can rely on OEM the better. Some of the parts are drying up, or over priced and to rely on that isn't something I'd like if I can find aftermarket that is just as good if not better.

Even my electric is a stripped down and simplified setup with moto-gadget and lipo battery. Just so I could get away from that cluttered mess.

I haven't ignored the suggestions, just chose to go a different route. When I started this thread I was looking mainly for brands that you guys had been using to swap things out and what would be better (again, not uncommon for people to be ditching oem products from this old of a bike).

Appreciate the feedback, I'll keep it in mind.

I don't know why you think there are issues buying OEM parts; I haven't had a single problem in 7 years for the important stuff like filters, gaskets, brake parts, hoses, etc.

 

[Rob S.]

I don't know why you think there are issues buying OEM parts; I haven't had a single problem in 7 years for the important stuff like filters, gaskets, brake parts, hoses, etc.

Neither have I (6 years). But I have wondered, "When were these made? Where have they been sitting all these years?"

 

[alkswheetinjur]

PERSONALLY, I would just do the springs at first. Easy, cheap job, an hour tops. Chances are it will fix it. You don't even have to drop the oil to do it. If it doesn't fix it, it is easy to go in again to do the rest. Buuuut... since it seems you are using a mechanic....cost must not be an issue. If you are doing the plates, I would go for oem over aftermarket, regardless of cost.

I am waiting on a set of springs in the mail. How do you change them without draining the oil?