Tip on how to "easily" get your carb rack back into the boots

[Guest]

If you've taken the carbs off your bike, you know getting them back into the boots can be very difficult. Today when I went to return my freshly cleaned carbs to the bike I decided I was going to work smarter, not harder. To use this trick you will need a 4x4 slightly longer than your carb gang, a short section of 2x4 (mine was about 2'), a rubber mallet, and a rachet strap. It doesn't need to be heavy duty, I used one with 400 lbs max pulling force. You will place the 2x4 across the front of your frame, to distribute weight evenly, the 4x4 goes across the back of your carbs, the rachet strap goes around all of this. I racheted it up tight, but not overly so, once the slack was out I racheted it twice. This will hold the carbs in position, as you gently tap the back of the 4x4 with the rubber mallet to get the carbs to seat. In the past I've struggled for nearly an hour trying to get the carbs back on the bike; today, I was done in 5 minutes. Some might think using the frame as an anchor point is a poor idea, but IMO this was even less stress than strapping the bike down for transport would put on the frame. Would love to hear your feedback, or other tips to make reinstalling the carbs easier.

 

[Burque73]

I throw a leg over and sit on the frame, above the battery. Feet on the pegs grab carbs on left and right and wiggle into the boots. A little silicone grease helps things slide together.

 

[sharpy]

And then how do you get the airbox in?

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Didn't know they had 2x4s in Japan, or even 4x4s wow? :clap:

 

[Dogma]

And then how do you get the airbox in?

On the big shafties, you just put it in. If it's difficult, you need new rubber.

Like Burkue73, I sit on the bike to install the carbs. Once I get 1 or 4 in, the rest follow more easily. Sometimes I scooch back and push with my feet once I get them aligned. Rocking them up and down helps a lot too. I never remember to try lube. If you don't have the strength you want, or the intake boots are marginal, the ratchet strap might be a good trick to keep handy.

 

[Guest]

On the big shafties, you just put it in. If it's difficult, you need new rubber.

Like Burkue73, I sit on the bike to install the carbs. Once I get 1 or 4 in, the rest follow more easily. Sometimes I scooch back and push with my feet once I get them aligned. Rocking them up and down helps a lot too. I never remember to try lube. If you don't have the strength you want, or the intake boots are marginal, the ratchet strap might be a good trick to keep handy.

My boots are probably marginal, but they don't have any airleaks or cracks yet so I'm going to keep running them. And I don't have the strength I would probably need to get them in by hand, so using the rachet straps was pretty much my only option.

 

[sharpy]

so air box slides in after the carbs are fitted on shafties?

 

[Guest]

so air box slides in after the carbs are fitted on shafties?

That's correct.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

If you have to go with that palaver you definitely need new rubbers.

 

[Gorminrider]

Heat softens old rubber...use heatgun (not too hot!) or even rags from hot water...(wear gloves-"hot" hurts! again, rubber needn't be boiling hot)
a bit of greasy stuff is a help.

You might even try soapy water or tire-lube (used to mount tubeless tires)
BUT
Danger-If you force carbs onto old, cold rubber with levers or ratchets, you will risk tearing that ridge off that matches the groove on your carb mouths...you needn't ask how I know this

 

[Steve]

That?s either WAY too much effort or the wrong bike.

I LIKE my shafties. With relatively fresh boots, the carbs slide right in

Once they are clamped, you can just about stand next to the bike and throw the airbox into place. :encouragement: :-\\\

.

 

[fixmybrokecomputer]

Years ago I put a 2 x 4 across the back of the carbs. I then had an old bed rail that fit down through the frame and levered them into place. I didn't have any issues getting the airbox back on IIRC. The next time they come off, I've got new boots for the airbox and intake in stock.

 

[Guest]

That?s either WAY too much effort or the wrong bike.

I LIKE my shafties. With relatively fresh boots, the carbs slide right in

Once they are clamped, you can just about stand next to the bike and throw the airbox into place. :encouragement: :-\\\

.

It was probably a combo of the boots being close to end of life, and my heated garage still being somewhat cold (low 50s F), making the rubber that was already not super flexible pretty solid. I'll order new boots the next time the carbs or airbox needs to come off the bike, but this helped me get them back on when nothing else seemed to work.

 

[mikerophone]

I LIKE my shafties. With relatively fresh boots, the carbs slide right in

Agreed about the shafties being easier, not sure why but also not complaining!

 

[Guest]

Whenever you are going to change the boots, there is an O ring on the engine side. Change those as well or you may have an air leak. There are ways of softening the boots by soaking them in wintergreen oil. There may still be a thread on that here somewhere.

 

[bwringer]

Crikey, that's a fantastic recipe for bending and breaking unobtanium parts... please PLEASE don't raid the lumberyard to get your carbs back in, people.

I use a versatile power tool found in my wallet. It's a plastic rectangle with an assortment of magic numbers I use to order up a fresh set of boots.

Some shortcuts and money-saving measures are worth taking. This one is not.


For some bikes, new carb boot sets are available from https://www.cruzinimage.net/ at a much friendlier price. By all accounts thus far, and from what I've seen personally, they appear to be high quality parts from Japan.

It's also important to replace the rubbers from the airbox to the carbs. If yours are old, shrunken, and hardened, you will be amazed at how much larger and more flexible they are. Many people have been convinced they received the wrong parts because old ones shrink so much.


But sometimes you're really stuck in a situation where the Visa trick won't work because you can't get the boots any more. If the boots are just hardened and shrunken, but not separated or cracked you can often get usable results by soaking the rubber in a solution of wintergreen oil and xylene. This replaces the plasticizers in the rubber and can often get these parts usable again.

There's a commercial product called Rubber Renue, but it's very spendy, and some folks have purchased the ingredients and mixed up their own. Xylene can be found in any paint department, but wintergreen oil (AKA methyl salicylate) is a little harder to find. I've done this with good results. You do have to start with intact parts; if they're separated or cracked, they're not recoverable.

 

[Maddevill]

I found that using a lot of Heavy Duty Swear Words can help a lot.
You can get a variety at Harbor Fright.

 

[zuluwiz]

I can think of 2 easy ways to do it: 1) buy new boots from time to time, and 2) pay someone to do it for you. Please note: he said "easy" , not "cheap".

 

[Guest]

I'm a big fan of using a heat gun, to warm up the boots. Be careful not to melt/scorch them, but get them nice and warm.

 

[wyly]

on the GSX ...New rubbers, grease, heat gun, sometimes a strap...and a lot of cursing seems to help.

On my CBX with 6carbs removal or installation goes way beyond difficult. Removal requires tilting the engine, I discovered I could use the reverse technique to install. Line up carbs between air box and intake rubbers and gently jack the engine back into position, with a little grease they pop right back in.