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Tires/Rims/Tubes Q&A

  • Thread starter Thread starter witttom
  • Start date Start date
A little info. from the Suzuki factory owner's manual (for a tubeless bike): tubeless tires have passed rigid testing, and have certain self-sealing characteristics that the tube-type don't; inspect them or the rim carefully if t.p. has dropped (which would seem good advice tubed or tubeless). So maybe the big diff. is in the tires as opposed to the rims.
 
I use these suckaz - and they hold pretty well - wet or dry @ the right price



Bridgestone Spitefire S11
100/90 + 130/90
 
Those rims look just like the ones I had on my '85 Shadow VT700C.... damn I miss that bike......:(
 
I run tubeless in my mags, but they need air every few days. Tubeless is much easier to field repair and plug if you pick up a nail or something.
 
JMHJ said:
A little info. from the Suzuki factory owner's manual (for a tubeless bike): tubeless tires have passed rigid testing, and have certain self-sealing characteristics that the tube-type don't; inspect them or the rim carefully if t.p. has dropped (which would seem good advice tubed or tubeless). So maybe the big diff. is in the tires as opposed to the rims.
Click to expand...

Here's an old thread on the topic that appears to validate that. Earl did some detailed measurements of a rim marked tubeless and one that wasn't and found no difference. The main problem was/is that some of the rims are more porous and the air leaked out within a few days or weeks. This same thread has instructions about how to seal a rim that is too porous.

Interesting reading regardless where you stand on this 'issue'.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=73719
 
Jethro said:
I run tubeless in my mags, but they need air every few days. Tubeless is much easier to field repair and plug if you pick up a nail or something.
Click to expand...

Something is very wrong. I once had a set of tires installed with new steel valve stems that were so tall that while I could use a pressure gauge, I couldn't fit in a chuck to add air. The tires wore out after 40,000 miles, and had only lost about 2 psi. Motorcycle tires should hold air almost as long.

Spritz the tire, wheel and valve with soapy water and find your leak!
 
themess said:
Something is very wrong. I once had a set of tires installed with new steel valve stems that were so tall that while I could use a pressure gauge, I couldn't fit in a chuck to add air. The tires wore out after 40,000 miles, and had only lost about 2 psi. Motorcycle tires should hold air almost as long.

Spritz the tire, wheel and valve with soapy water and find your leak!
Click to expand...

It is normal for a tire to loose a couple psi per month so your experience is not typical.

I've read through this thread, and that other one posted by Ptm, and have some thoughts on this subject...as I always do. ;)

It seems clear that when the switch from tube to tubeless occured there was at least a subtle change to the rim profile. This makes sense to me since breaking the bead loose on a tubeless tire is a major bear compared to tube type plus, there is always a loud POP when the tire jumps over the inner lip and seats.

This inner lip seems to be a safety device to keep the tire on the rim in case of deflation. In this respect, tubeless is safer than tube type which does not have this retaining device. So if we run tubeless on our old GS tube-type rims, we don't get this extra safety device but then, we never had it to begin with so no loss.

I'm leaning toward support of tubeless on a tube type rim as long as the rim is not too porus to hold air. Epoxy sealing seems like a possible solution but quite a bit of work considering the minor benifit.

Just my opinion.
 
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I run tubeless tyres on my 78 GS750, which i think was the first to run the "mag" type wheels. I initially had a small leak on the front, and had to add air every week.

But i have since added ultraseal, for it's puncture protection.

http://www.tyreprotect.co.uk/puncture_prevention_products.html

Now the front hasn't lost any air for months. I think something like ultraseal is a must for motorcycles anyway, and it solves any porosity into the bargain.

Footy.
 
This has been a helpful thread inspite of the difference of opinion. I actually found out a few things on my bike. I have one rim marked "tubeless" on my bike....never even knew it. So obviously it doesn't need a tube there. My front tire rim doesn't have that marking so I assume that it was designed for a tube (although it doesn't have a tube on it now and didn't when I bought new tires).

Nessism's argument works for me. The deflation safety issue would apply whether the tire had a tube in it or not. So while a "tubeless" rim might be somewhat safer if the tire has no air, it seems, overall, like a minor issue. The front does lose air a little quicker, but only to a small degree.

So, along with the fact that all the shops I've checked with say that its not much of an issue, I've changed my mind and will remain tubless.
 
I've also owned a BMW for over twenty years now and remember this topic for about the same; some folks tried running tubeless on the old tube type metal flake wheels and had the tire lose pressure at highway speeds. I have enough grey hair to have learned not to play with lit dynamite.
 
Somewhere, perhaps in another thread... I had posted about my troubles with mounting tires on my GS (man, tubes suck!). I thought it was troubles that are now behind me, but... it's a thorn in my side that just won't go away. I have a slow leak in my rear tire. I've mounted this one twice (both times, with professional help and professional tools). The first time, I had a bad tube (I swear, it wasn't me that put a hole in it). The second time seemed to take. ...or so I thought.

It takes about three days or less for my rear to go from ~40psi, to ZERO (sub-5psi). While this is no huge ordeal when riding my bike to/from work or a quick romp through the rural twisties (a quick shot of air from my compressor is easy enough before departure), it certainly creates some trouble if I want to take the bike for any extended rides (long day, or overnight... which I'd like to do this Summer).

I do NOT want to have to dismount and mount this tire yet again (Heaven help me, spare me the nightmare!).

I've tried the PJ1 Balancing Fluid, which I use in my modern day bikes with great success. Not only does this stuff really work for high-speed balance of tires, but it seals small punctures and slow leaks as well. Well, all but this particular one. I'm guessing my tube is leaking on the inside diameter somewhere (which, my guess... is the common place).

I really dislike Fix-A-Flat, and Green Slime (while I love it in my dirtbikes and lawn tractors) would be an even worse idea. I suppose I'd consider Fix-A-Flat if I really thought it would fix my problem without throwing the tire out of balance. I DO take my GS into triple-digits occassionally.

Is a new tube my ONLY option??
 
Have you checked the valve stem core? Maybe it's leaking there, and a new core would solve the problem.
 
Little "Ol skool" hint for youse guys. Use talcum powder inside the tyre,when fitting a tube, it helps to allow it to move and settle.

Dink
 
well i looked at this thread for advice but im still confused as hell
my gs450e has the alloy wheels but no markings saying tubeless
my rear has tubeless tyre on and doesnt seem to loose psi
but the front has a tube type fitted

i cant find any tube type tyres in the size i need for my front
so will i be ok running a tubeless tyre
or would i need to put a tube inside a tubeless tyre :confused:

theirs only 1 90/90/18 on ebay i can find in the uk and its tubeless
its ending in a few hours
i realy need a new front tyre my sidewall is cracked
this is he first one ive seen in the size i need that aint some offroad crap or a make ive never heard of

will i be ok running a tubeless tyre ???? :confused:
i dont want to be eating tarmac cos of a bad choice

ediot the only marking besides size ect i can find on my rims is LE
 
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Dink said:
Little "Ol skool" hint for youse guys. Use talcum powder inside the tyre,when fitting a tube, it helps to allow it to move and settle.

Dink
Click to expand...

......and just enough air in the tube so it can keep it's shape. This also helps to avoid pinching the tube.
 
JMHJ said:
Have you checked the valve stem core? Maybe it's leaking there, and a new core would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
I've checked and I don't believe it is leaking from the stem, but I may swap it out anyway just to be sure. Thanks for the tip.
 
For slow leaks, immerse the wheel and tire in water or use soapy water and a brush.
 
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