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To pod, or not to pod

  • Thread starter Thread starter chainzron
  • Start date Start date
C

chainzron

Guest
I destroyed my stock airbox for my 79 gs1000L a while ago, and was told to get some "pods" for my bike. After checking into the cost of these little things, someone told me I needed to put bigger jets in my carbs to get the pods to work right? All I know is that I have no air box, and that thing is a bear to get running right. Any help would be great on what to do. I also noticed that the left 2 carbs do not seem to be working? WTF?

Thanks!
~My ass is yurning for a ride on my sweet 79~
 
I say don't do it. Get another stock airbox. There are plenty of posts on this topic - do a search. By the way, the bike has absolutely zero chance of running right without at least something to replace that damaged airbox.
 
chainzron said:
I destroyed my stock airbox for my 79 gs1000L a while ago, and was told to get some "pods" for my bike. After checking into the cost of these little things, someone told me I needed to put bigger jets in my carbs to get the pods to work right? All I know is that I have no air box, and that thing is a bear to get running right. Any help would be great on what to do. I also noticed that the left 2 carbs do not seem to be working? WTF?

Thanks!
~My ass is yurning for a ride on my sweet 79~
Click to expand...


Well, if you plan to do the tuning yourself you're in for quite a time.
I built my carbs and podded them and the tuning took 6 months and lots of blood sweat and tears to get them even close to right. My idle circuit still isn't spot-on and it's years later... :p

But pods are a lot easier if you like to tweak your carbs for performance a lot. They also allow for easier removal of the carb-rack from the bike. However, adding pods does increase the Air-intake on the bike. Therefore you have to balance it out by increasing the Fuel-intake on the bike by adding in larger Main Jets, Larger idle jets and also replacing the Jet-needles in your carbs. You may also have to readjust the floats in the carbs to allow them to hold a higher level of fuel in them.

Now, with you not knowing much about carbs I can only think that the Carb-Guide here on this site is going to be your best friend over the next year if you choose to pod your bike. If you choose to have a shop do the tuning for you it may cost up to 400 dollars for your bike. Don't feel bad if you choose to have a shop do it, I got frustrated and went that route. But then I put on a 4-into-1 exhaust on the bike and pretty much wasted the 400 dollars I spent to get the podded carbs tuned to the stock exhaust. Then I HAD to learn how to tune the carbs because I had no money left :p hehe. ( I could have just bought another stock exhaust off of Ebay but ah well...)

If you've made it this far and are still reading let me just say that if you're really interested in podding the carbs yourself you have to be willing to invest the time and love to get it right. If you don't get it right you can easily overheat and turn your bike into a sexy piece of GS-lawn sculpture.

Good luck and God bless,
Dm of mD
 
If you get pods, make sure you replace all the screws with cap socket bolts. You'll be taking the carbs apart a lot and the phillip head screws won't stand a chance. I had my carbs off somewhere between 30-50 times in an effort to get them set up right with pods. That was before I decided to put the stock airbox back on...
 
If you don't get it right you can easily overheat and turn your bike into a sexy piece of GS-lawn sculpture.
Click to expand...

I don't agree with that. Too lean a mix when I switched to pods only cost me the following:

Used head with new cams that aren't burned- $200
New head gasket- $70
New piston and ring kit off Ebay- $375
Base gasket- $8
Valve cover gasket and cam end plugs- $36
New exhaust gaskets- $16
New oil and filter- $38
My time (worth a cheap $50/hr)- $700


So my 81 GS 1100E, given to me by a good friend for free, only cost me around $1500 when I burned my exhaust side cam and seats, and holed a few pistons! No big deal!
 
I know that this has been discussed on here many times.
But this was a good reminder for me. I WAS thinking of podding my bike. But
1) I do not have the TIME to spend on many massive adjustments
2) I do not have the MONEY to waste on a top end rebuild if it does go wrong
3) the Pods are rather expensive relitivly speaking
 
To be fair, burning the head or pistons only happens if you fail to read the plugs and check your mixture after the pods go on.

Also note that there is little to no benefit to pods unless you have a performance pipe to go with it.
 
Dm of Md - what "carb guide"? I searched and came up dry!
Kelzer
 
All truthful replies. The sage advice here is the only thing that kept me from detonating my engine while testing.

Also, a few members came out and helped me with testing as well.
If you live near maryland and need help.....meh, just get a replacement airbox.

It's the easier, less costly option.
:p
 
Thanks so much for all your replies(looking for airbox on ebay)!!!!:-D
 
Has someone ever fabricated a smaller profile airbox? One that would produce simular air flow or air restriction as the stock box?
 
88mm said:
Has someone ever fabricated a smaller profile airbox? One that would produce simular air flow or air restriction as the stock box?
Click to expand...

The stock box is set up to get a certain amount of airflow. If you are to make your own you are going to have to design it so that it has the same airflow properties that your stock box had to not have to worry about running too lean or too rich. It would be alot of work.
 
Billy_Oliver880 said:
The stock box is set up to get a certain amount of airflow. If you are to make your own you are going to have to design it so that it has the same airflow properties that your stock box had to not have to worry about running too lean or too rich. It would be alot of work.
Click to expand...

Truth!!
The design of the stock airbox was created by the dudes at Suzuki and they REALLY knew what they were doing. There isn't anything anyone's created that works with the stock jet settings like the stock airbox.
There's always been something wrong with the way the air flows in the replacement box or air leaks or vacuum issues. Suzuki really made their product to strict specifications and they must be abided by if you choose to go with stock jetting.

:p
 
Detman101 said:
Truth!!
The design of the stock airbox was created by the dudes at Suzuki and they REALLY knew what they were doing. There isn't anything anyone's created that works with the stock jet settings like the stock airbox.
There's always been something wrong with the way the air flows in the replacement box or air leaks or vacuum issues. Suzuki really made their product to strict specifications and they must be abided by if you choose to go with stock jetting.

:p
Click to expand...

Moral of the story, protect your stock airbox with your life!
 
suggestion

suggestion

watch ebay for another stock airbox. My gs850 would only turn 5000 rpm with pods (apparently the person who put them on did not re-jett as needed). I bought an airbox and it runs 8-9000rmp easily, and runs like a new machine. Don't let anyone talk you into pods.
 
It's too bad my stock airbox is missing the lid. Looks like I should find a replacement for that since the tolerances were so strict; unfortunately the lid isn't sold separately.

I also need the chrome sidings :D
 
I disagree with all the negative pod sentiment. I went with K&N pods, already had a pipe. I bought the K&N (Dynojet) jet kit on clearance for $40. Setting it up as recommended (Stage III) got the jetting very close. All it took to get it right was raising the needles a couple notches. The performance increase was more than I expected. I've never gotten so much horsepower increase for so little money.

Thanks,
Joe
 
If all you're missing is the top of the airbox I'd check with somebody whose got one and see if it's a simple fabrication to duplicate it...

Regards,
 
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