K
koolaid_kid
Guest
Well, there is a seal (part 25) and a bushing (part 27) on the shaft. I suggest replacing them and see if it helps.
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C
claygs750e
Guest
Are you referring to 25 and 27 on this diagram? #25 indicates the shaft and #27 says its a spring?
K
koolaid_kid
Guest
No. In post #14 you displayed a picture of the arm the cable connects to. The arm fits on a shaft. The shaft goes into the clutch cover and actuates the clutch. You need to remove the clutch cover and pull that shaft out. The shaft has a seal and a bushing. You need to replace both. You should also replace the clutch cover gasket if you have not already done it, as it ages and gets brittle.
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claygs750e
Guest
I've not had a chance to buy the seal and bushing, but I did the clutch adjustment and I can see no improvement. I've ridden the bike more and have slightly more details of what I am seeing. So for 1 it's definitely really difficult shifting when I first start the bike and the first 20 mins I ride it. As it warms up through it becomes much better, but still really hard going into 2nd and unable to go into neutral when stopped. Also, dowshifting is really easy in all gears so the problem is focused on upshifting. Could a bad seal and bushing resolve these symptoms?
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claygs750e
Guest
Well I've adjusted the clutch to a better position and it feels slightly better, but it really is pretty tough going into 2nd and sometimes 3rd. Once it warms up it is manageable, but until then it's a struggle. I also found that the only way I can go into neutral at a stop is to pull up on the foot lever with my hand while slightly rolling the bike with me feet. Not sure what that means, but maybe I should replace the seal and bushing now and see if that helps.
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claygs750e
Guest
So as the last several weeks gone by I've noticed that the problem has settled down to mainly being an issue when the bike is cold. After riding for about 10 mins it becomes really easy to shift through the grears, sometimes I shift past one gear into the next for some reason so that might be a problem as well. But those first 10 mins it's pretty tough and I normally have to wiggle the shifter and clutch lever before it goes into gear. I'm not sure whats going on.
It sounds like your clutch is incorrectly adjusted and dragging. Put the bike on the center stand, start it, hold the clutch in and shift into 1st gear. With the clutch lever held in, the rear wheel should not turn. If it does, the clutch needs adjustment.
G
Guest
Guest
Is your new clutch cable an OEM cable, if it is, it has three adjustments to it, one adjustment is down at the clutch cover on the clutch arm, there is also an adjustment in the middle of the cable itself. you'll see a long threaded adjustment nut and two jam nuts, last but not least you have the adjustment at the clutch lever, this adjustment is only used to fine tune everything. Start at the middle, work down to the arm and then use the lever adjustment to fine too your cable slack. Make sure the cable follows the manual's recommended route.
There really isn't anything to be greased either on the foot shifter or the clutch arm. No linkage. If the seal are bad on the foot shifter itself, it might bind it a bit, though nothing to the point where it keeps you from down shifting into the lower gears. As it is, shifting into neutral with the engine running is bit of an art. Takes just the right tap and no load on the transmission.
There really isn't anything to be greased either on the foot shifter or the clutch arm. No linkage. If the seal are bad on the foot shifter itself, it might bind it a bit, though nothing to the point where it keeps you from down shifting into the lower gears. As it is, shifting into neutral with the engine running is bit of an art. Takes just the right tap and no load on the transmission.
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G
Guest
Guest
Sometimes the wheel will turn due to some slight oil drag. In most cases a firm touch with a finger will stop it, if it doesn't start looking harder at the adjustments and or the clutch itself.
Might wanna check your clutch disks and the steel plates, they could be sticking for some reason or have slight warp causing them to bind a bit, a good cleaning might be in order.
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claygs750e
Guest
Because I have clip on bars this is not the OEM cable so no adjustor in the middle. I will put it on the stand tonight and see if the wheel moves. I can stand with it in first and the clutch pulled in and it doesn't pull forward. If the clutch was out of adjustment why would it get better when it warms up?
If the wheel doesn't turn with it in 1st gear, clutch pulled in and engine idling, then it is not a clutch adjustment problem.
If the wheel does turn and you can stop it with a couple of fingers on the tire tread, it is not a adjustment problem either.
If it is not adjustment, it is sticking clutch plates and that is usually due to dirty oil and sludge build up. Changing to fresh oil will not solve the problem, and you're probably going to have to clean the clutch disks to get the build up off of them.
Too heavy an oil for the temperatures will also be problematic.
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