Top end rebuild

[doctorgonzo]

A fresh question...

The bottom case, should I flush it somehow while I've got the cylinders and the head off? Drop the oil pan and make sure no sediment or nasty bits are in there? Flush kerosene or some other solvent through it?

 

[Nessism]

I wouldn't flush with anything; residule solvent will remain in the engine. Pulling off the sump cover is a good idea, sludge tends to accumulate there and you can clean the oil filter screen at the same time. If you really want to be proactive you could pull the clutch and stator covers and clean out any sludge you see there as well.

Good luck and keep up with good work.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Who makes valves for Vesrah, and what makes you think they are of good quality?
I thought they made brake pads and leaky gaskets?

There are still original Suzuki valves out there. I bought new intakes and exhausts on EBAY from MRSSUPERDEALS for $7.50 each still in original packaging. With Suzuki logo cast on head of valve.

 

[doctorgonzo]

There are still original Suzuki valves out there. I bought new intakes and exhausts on EBAY from MRSSUPERDEALS for $7.50 each still in original packaging. With Suzuki logo cast on head of valve.

I'll search for that seller. I have been watching ebay for two monrths now and have seen exactly one exhaust valve pop up, and they wanted as much as buying it from Bike Bandit ($45).

Edit:
Found their ebay store, they don't list any GS1100/GS1000 valves, but gonna send them an email, they might have rings as well.

 

[doctorgonzo]

And another question:

I've seen much talk about the 750 oil pump increasing volume. I've run across a 1983 750 oil pump (from which I could remove the gear) for basically nothing ($10.00), is this the gear people are talking about?

Looks like all the 83 750s are 16 valve, so this isn't it, have to be an earlier year.

 

[Nessism]

There was a thread in the Performance Mods forum recently discussing the need for more oil pressure/volume in 8V engines; bottom line is that extra oil is not needed and adding it anyway opens up the possibility for oil leaks from the head and/or base gaskets since oil flows upstairs via the cylinder/head studs. I say forget it.

 

[doctorgonzo]

There was a thread in the Performance Mods forum recently discussing the need for more oil pressure/volume in 8V engines; bottom line is that extra oil is not needed and adding it anyway opens up the possibility for oil leaks from the head and/or base gaskets since oil flows upstairs via the cylinder/head studs. I say forget it.

Good info, I had seen recent discussions in here on it, and figured I'd check into it.

Tomorrow the frame goes to my girfriend's brother's garage to start mocking up the frame bracing so he can get it cut out and get ready to weld.

I found two powder coaters who will do the frame for the $150.00 range, probably gonna throw the swingarm, all the motor mounts, and the center stand in there which will bump that a little.

I checked with local machine shops and for only a little more I can get Ray to bore my head to fit the GS1100 pistons ("$50 a hole" which cracked me up), so waiting on piston arrival to finalize that with Ray and get it shipped off.

I'll know for sure on Tuesday on the Vesrah valve set from APE. They wanted to confirm one more time the other customer wasn't gonna take them. If he does, gonna go with what I have.

Still wating on seats and retainers from Flat Out, retainers were backordered, supposed to have shipped yesterday. I already have HD springs from APE.

Sunday most likely I'm going to take the pan off the motor to get all the sludge and nasties out of the screen .

 

[Nessism]

Why are you installing HD valve springs? Are you going with high lift cams?

If you are staying with the stock cams, you should stay with the stock valve springs - get new ones if you want to freshen things up. HD valve springs will have a greater spring force which will cause additional wear of the valve, valve seats, cams, and valve shims. For best durability you want the weakest valve springs you can get away with.

If you are going with new cams, and want to sell the old retainers and springs, please let me know. I could use a set for an engine I'm putting together.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Why are you installing HD valve springs? Are you going with high lift cams?

If you are staying with the stock cams, you should stay with the stock valve springs - get new ones if you want to freshen things up. HD valve springs will have a greater spring force which will cause additional wear of the valve, valve seats, cams, and valve shims. For best durability you want the weakest valve springs you can get away with.

If you are going with new cams, and want to sell the old retainers and springs, please let me know. I could use a set for an engine I'm putting together.

At the time I ordered them I thought I had a line on a used set of Web Cams, but it fell through, good info on they might be too much for stock cams. Well guess what, I STILL have a set of springs and retainers I can let you have because the original 1000 head had a set, the new 1100 head had a set, and I have the HD set. Of the old ones, neither set seems "bad", of course I don't have a way to measure their compression.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Frame bracing day1

Frame bracing day1

Day one of frame bracing, it's going to take a day two, especially because the battery box has to be relocated back about 2 inches.

The diagram I am following used tubing to tie the headstock to the frame, but wouldn't work with the "G" tank fitment. I had to use a gusset instead. Even with a gusset had to curve the gusset inward and beat in sections of the underside of the tank, but finally made it fit. Second gusset below, repeated on the other side.

Cross member added just above the motor mounts.

Here she sits after day one of bracing, with my girlfriend in the background watching her brother work on her car.

 

[Guest]

You can use the HD springs with the stock cams no problem. (sorry Ed, don't mean to contradict you)
Clean the sump pump screen after the first break oil and filter change. I did mine after around 50 miles.
You wouldn't believe the crap I found in there.

 

[doctorgonzo]

The process continues...

My "garage", an 8 X 12 shed. I did run electricity to it at least.

Yes, that's a Black and Decker workmate, and yes it makes me a little nervous, but it's rated 350 lbs. The towels stop it from rocking side to side and being more unstable.

Mechanical advance is a little rusty, gonna clean it up, and what the hell, might as well look at the clutch plates, maybe replace the fibers, got a few spares.

Bought extra sheathing from vintage connections, looks like I need some here on the gear indicator wiring...

 

[Guest]

There is NO WAY I could work in my shed. It actually has stuff in it.

 

[doctorgonzo]

There is NO WAY I could work in my shed. It actually has stuff in it.

I rent and last time my lease was almost up I told her I thought I'd have to move because I had to have a garage for the bike. Two weeks later there was a new 8 X 12 shed sitting behind my house, I have another old one that has all my crap in it. I built workbench, lofts, etc... into the new one to maximize space, just for this purpose (storing and working on a bike).

 

[doctorgonzo]

Mo Money, Mo Money, Mo Money.... (and yes Ed I know I probably could have avoided some of it hehe)

I went ahead and bought the full set of Vesrah stock diameter valves for $180. That's how much I would have paid for OEM valves for exhaust only. My intakes are actually 99% sure all still within spec, They'll be up for sale soon.

Gonna wait for the valves to arrive, and then going to ship them, the head, and the cylinder block all to APE. APE is going to bore the cylinders to fit each piston ($189.00), and re-cut the seats on the exhaust side ($20.00). I kept looking at how pitted they were (IN side are shiny clean) and finally decided lapping wasn't gonna get it. Major, major, major fingers crossed they don't have to cut them to the point I have to go oversized on the exhaust side (requiring 4 custom valves at $50 each). The head still has the guides in it. Before they re-cut the seats I'm going to have them check the valves in the guides (since I don't have a dial gauge) and if any of the guides are too worn, gonna go ahead and replace all the guides and re-cut all the seats (instead of EX only).

Can you tell I love this bike.
The upside is by spring this thing will basically have the engine if a bike right off the assembly line.

 

[Big T]

The other thing you have to worry about "if" they have to do a deep cut on your valve seats is valve clearance.

You may have to have the valve stems shortened.

 

[doctorgonzo]

The other thing you have to worry about "if" they have to do a deep cut on your valve seats is valve clearance.

You may have to have the valve stems shortened.

They'll do that for like 8 bucks a valve, so compared to having to have valves with oversized heads made, peanuts.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Little more frame work today, should be done next weekend and ready for the powder coater.

No airboxes for you!

Little hammer modification required for the gussets by the steering stem.

Gussets tack welded after airbox mounts cut off.

And welded in place.

 

[Big T]

They'll do that for like 8 bucks a valve, so compared to having to have valves with oversized heads made, peanuts.

Just wanted to remind you so you're not cursing when there's no shim thin enough to give you clearance after you have it all back together.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Just wanted to remind you so you're not cursing when there's no shim thin enough to give you clearance after you have it all back together.

All advice appreciated sir.