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Torque specs for cams?

Mark,
I meant to ask you... What makes the bolts unique? :confused:

Its not neccessarily the bolts i dont think so much as perhaps the wear on the cam journal. If one side or one cam wears differently, and you use the hold down from a different spot, it could cause the journal to wear prematurely or incorrectly. Thats my guess.
 
Mark,
I meant to ask you... What makes the bolts unique? :confused:

Again, this is from my 850 service manual.

"Caution:

The camshaft holder bolts are made of a special material and much superior in strength compared with other types of high strength bolts.

Take special care not to use other type bolts instead of these special bolts. To identify these bolts, each of them has a figure "9" on its head."

I'm assuming this also applies in your case, given the nature of your original post I was trying to help you avoid possible trouble.

I'm not sure what makes the bolts unique, only that they are, and the manual takes care to make the specific point that you should only use those bolts for this application.

Sorry, you're having trouble, at least you haven't stripped 3 of the holes out like I did. :)
 
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only 12?? Even my 77 had 16...weird! Check evilbay..see lots of valve cover gaskets on there..OR better yet, Check Z1...they have them all as far as ive investigated.
 
Mark,
I meant to ask you... What makes the bolts unique? :confused:

Cloud, bolts are graded for different requirements. Basically, it is how much force a bolt is expected to withstand. Measured in psi, a standard grade 1 bolt (this is a plain bolt with no marking on the head) is going to have a minimum yield strength of about 40,000psi; depending on whether it was produced using a low or medium carbon steel. The strength of a grade 5 bolt (three dashes on the head) has a strength of 92,000psi. A grade 7 bolt (5 dashes on the head) meets a minimum of 115,000psi and a grade 9 bolt is about 140,000psi (I think).

In layman's terms, the higher the yeild strength, the stronger the bolt. A grade 1 bolt is fine to hold you fender on, but you don't want to use it under a high stress area, such as you cams or brake disks. Incedently, your brake disks should all have a #7 stamped on them. It's a more critical component and endures higher stress than the fender. Likewise, you cam bolts require a grade 9 because they are under tremendous stress due to extreme heat cycles and the force required to keep the cams in place. If the head broke off one of these bolts, your not going to see it in time to save your motor. This bolt has to be very strong and this strength also allows it to resist deformation. Using a weaker bolt in this location could lead to increased wear on the cam and caps as the bolt deforms and allows the cap to loosen.

Hope this helps --
Kurt
 
Yeah and ill take mine back too...lmao i meant 8...you need the valve cover for the TSCC motor. Z1 i believe will have it. I had to hunt for mine on there, as i think they actually list it for the 850 or something, but its the one.
 
Yep that's it Cafe. I found one on Ebay last night. I just have to order all new cam bolts and new valve cover bolts. I want to make sure she is put together right. :)
 
outa curiousity, what did ya pay for it on fleabay? Im lookin for a stator cover gasket, and a valve gasket (Z1 has my valve but they dont carry the stator apparently)
 
Not bad at all... I am hoping to find a lone stator gasket, as i really dont want to buy a WHOLE set at the moment. Mines for the 8v motor, so if you happen on one, give a shout!
 
Sh!t thats a pricey gasket. I got a pack of 5 vesrah valvecover gaskets at the local performance bike shop for 15 bucks. As for torque spec's, on my '80 GS1000G headbolts are 27 ft/lbs valve cover 6.5 ft/lbs.
 
Yeah.. Unfortunately for me, no one round these parts (or at least within even senseable driving distance) stocks much in the way of parts for my oldie but goodie. Everything ive called for would have to be ordered anyway, and of course they all wanted to charge me near double for alot of it.
 
As dardoonk and Mark have said, you should be replacing those cam cap bolts with grade 9's. Nines are overkill really for strength, as you will normally strip the thread out before they break, if they are over torqued/tightened. But that's a good safety feature. Make sure that the length is correct as well. Be sure to blow the threaded holes out with compressed air to remove any oil as well. If you don't remove excess oil, it's possible to get a hydraulic situation causing you to break bolts as well!
It is common to break these bolts when trying to remove them after years of operation. They seize in the threaded area, due to electro-chemical reaction (electrolysis). Be sure to add a light coating of anti-seize (thread lube) before torqueing up the new bolts. 6ft/lbs is the correct figure.

I remember reading on the GSR a while back about a member finding two broken cap bolts on separate caps. He had been hammering his engine on a regular basis and was surprised that the thing hadn't destroyed itself under the stress of high revs. It just confirms how over designed these engines really are!
 
I've pulled all the threads out with the bolt before. Thank god for heli-coil. I've got at least half of mine done.
New head on the way though. 1mm oversized intake valves and clean as a whistle. \\:D/
 
I've pulled all the threads out with the bolt before. Thank god for heli-coil. I've got at least half of mine done.
New head on the way though. 1mm oversized intake valves and clean as a whistle. \\:D/

Bill, I had only one shagged thread on my 850 at the last rebuild. I was able to buy another longer grade 9 bolt to pick up some undamaged thread deeper down that hole.
Imm oversized intake valves? The quest for more power continues!! Pops went Imm bigger inlets with smaller stem diameters as well!
Happy New Year.
 
Man those bolts are expensive... :(

Just ordered $130.00 worth of factory hardware. New cam cover bolts, cam hold down bolts, etc, etc. Jeez. Oh well, time to give the bike a new lease on life.
 
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