Trying to find the correct flasher, HELP!

[Ironriot]

Ok I'm trying to put front turn signals on my bike, because the PO removed then, and nicer looking rear sigs on. I want them to function as running lights also because hey extra light at night is always good. Plus I REALLY like the peace of mind that I have a few more lights for the cagers to see.

Basically I know that I need either dual filament lights OR single filaments with a flasher that has normal closed contacts. I'm trying to shoot for the later because single filament lights are LOADS cheaper on ebay. Unless I'm not looking right.... My only problem is that I don't know which flashers have normally closed contacts so I was wondering if anyone can help.... Also if you guys have any advice to the whole putting running lights on this things it'd be greatly appreciated

 

[LeeGS550E]

I got my duals from Lockhart Philips. About $20 a pair. Didn't have to screw with the flasher.

 

[SPARKSS]

Dual filament bulbs (or equivalent LED packages) are the way to go. The signal filament signal is MUCH brighter which accomplishes what it's supposed to. I'll have to say that all the flashers that I've used on cars, trucks and bikes have had 2 normally-closed (to load) contacts. I've only seen one that was used many years back with a seperate N.O. contact which, at that time, was used to light an indicator lamp. If your bike has or had the self-cancelling turn signal system, then this is a different can of worms with a unique control module. Easy to troubleshoot and/or modify if you understand some basic automotive electrical circuitry and theory.

In a typical signal flasher circuit, the flasher (2 contacts or prongs) has battery power on one contact, and the other contact feeds the turn signal switch which is center off and selects which side "loads" or bulbs it wants to flash. Center off = off......selecting a side causes a load to appear to the flasher which then starts to cycle. (There's at least 3 different ways this happens inside them but the external result is the same).

You can see from the above, that trying to use the same filament as a signal and a running light would require that the bulb be fed seperately with the headlight switch and then turned off when flashing is required.....or that a special circuit be constructed to build a flasher with a seperate headlight input.....and priority and routing given to the flasher.....needless complexity.........and a poor choice as the signal bulb should have a bright filament for visibility, but which has poor longetivity if left on continuously. Conversly, a low output filament for running lights has poor visibility for use as a signal.

There are other circuit possibilities but once again.....needless complexity when the single flasher, 2 filament (later LED), switched circuitry makes use of available or existing parts in most cases.

 

[dardoonk]

Make sure you double check your state law on running lights. In NC and others, you can only run with red running lights, so you'll have to know that before buying new rear signals.

 

[Ironriot]

Dual filament bulbs (or equivalent LED packages) are the way to go. The signal filament signal is MUCH brighter which accomplishes what it's supposed to. I'll have to say that all the flashers that I've used on cars, trucks and bikes have had 2 normally-closed (to load) contacts. I've only seen one that was used many years back with a seperate N.O. contact which, at that time, was used to light an indicator lamp. If your bike has or had the self-cancelling turn signal system, then this is a different can of worms with a unique control module. Easy to troubleshoot and/or modify if you understand some basic automotive electrical circuitry and theory.

In a typical signal flasher circuit, the flasher (2 contacts or prongs) has battery power on one contact, and the other contact feeds the turn signal switch which is center off and selects which side "loads" or bulbs it wants to flash. Center off = off......selecting a side causes a load to appear to the flasher which then starts to cycle. (There's at least 3 different ways this happens inside them but the external result is the same).

You can see from the above, that trying to use the same filament as a signal and a running light would require that the bulb be fed seperately with the headlight switch and then turned off when flashing is required.....or that a special circuit be constructed to build a flasher with a seperate headlight input.....and priority and routing given to the flasher.....needless complexity.........and a poor choice as the signal bulb should have a bright filament for visibility, but which has poor longetivity if left on continuously. Conversly, a low output filament for running lights has poor visibility for use as a signal.

There are other circuit possibilities but once again.....needless complexity when the single flasher, 2 filament (later LED), switched circuitry makes use of available or existing parts in most cases.

Thanks for the insight. Yeah you've pretty much convinced me to not be cheap and just order dual filament lights hehe

 

[Ironriot]

Make sure you double check your state law on running lights. In NC and others, you can only run with red running lights, so you'll have to know that before buying new rear signals.

Texas is pretty lax with that stuff. I honestly don't think cops around here will care. As for the rear I was wondering about that though. I was reading somewhere on here that Suzuki only had running lights up front for 550's, the rears functioned only as turn signals. I'm gonna put running lights all the way around and I doubt the cops will say anythings. If they pull me over about it I'll just say that I have em there so people can see me better. I don't see why they wouldn't let me off the hook. Thanks for the heads up though