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turning air screw

  • Thread starter Thread starter goggleboy
  • Start date Start date
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goggleboy

Guest
I noticed that adjusting my pilot air screw on my 4th cylinder carb doesn't effect engine idle. I did more than 1 full turn either way and nothing happened. why not? I turn #2 and #3 and it has an effect. Sometimes #1 has an effect, but not as quick.
Why would this be?
 
One turn may no be enough if it's way out to start with. have a look at the carb sticky to see the standard settings and tune from there.

Either that or your synch is way our or you have a blocked pilot jet.
 
chef1366 said:
What year?
Click to expand...

1978C. I just dipped, cleaned and re-assembled the carbs.
The needles were clean, and not broken. The air screw isn't sharp
at the end anyways right? :confused:
I did a bench sync from Bikecliff's VM rebuild guide.
Its poping a bit, backfired once, bogs when I open the throttle, then catches. Also, doesn't reach over 80mph...??? The powerband is not
consistent all the way up
 
Air box, weatherstripped and sealed. sprayed for leaks, none with the boots or carb/air box mating surface. new carb boots n' orings too. valve clearances are in spec, however the only thing I haven't done is a good sync. I've tried to bench sync them, and tune the fuel and air screws. I notice a slight difference when I mess with the screws.
Power is just not all the way there. I'm going to re-check timing as well.
Plugs are grey on the outside cylinders, and a little darker on the inside.
When I open the throttle (quickly but not super fast) it bogs bogs bogs, until i let up. If I don't let up it'll bog all the way down and shut off.
:-k

if its running lean, do I screw OUT the pilot fuel screw or screw IN the pilot air screw? (vice versa for rich)

this is been like that battle from 300 or lord of the rings. :pray:
 
goggleboy said:
if its running lean, do I screw OUT the pilot fuel screw or screw IN the pilot air screw? (vice versa for rich) :pray:
Click to expand...

Since you have a stock set up, you should be out 7/8 turn on the fuel and 2 on the air to start

And, to answer your question - out is more - out on the fuel = more fuel, out on the air=more air

So,if you're lean, out on the fuel and in on the air

Wait, you have points? When were the points and condensors last changed?
 
Big T said:
Wait, you have points? When were the points and condensors last changed?
Click to expand...

No, dyna S electronic ignition with 3ohm dyna green coils, but that's a good question. I haven't had a chance to check the timing yet.
I just turned out the fuel screw about an 1/8 and turned the air screw in
a bit. A tad Better, but its still boggy all around. It feels okay from 2000-4500rpm then starts loose power a little bit. It as if Im holding the throttle open and it should be going faster but its not. I wish I could make noises on here and send them via forum. " bawww bawww wwahhhhhh" then it catches and rmp's climb.. but only after I have fully opened the throttle.
I'll be in 5th gear full throttle and it won't break 85mph , about 6000rpm

I rode my neighbors 74' Honda CB550 today and it made me cry how my GS
was slower:oops: ...I don't want to cheat on her
 
Okay, but what are your screws set at???

Hmm, is your vacuum line hooked up - from #3 carb to the petcock?

Try giving it about 1/4 choke and see if the symptoms ease

Did you use carb kits when you rebuilt your carbs?
 
Big T said:
Okay, but what are your screws set at???

Hmm, is your vacuum line hooked up - from #3 carb to the petcock?

Try giving it about 1/4 choke and see if the symptoms ease

Did you use carb kits when you rebuilt your carbs?
Click to expand...

Yeah hose is coming from petcock to #3 carb, and no I didn't use rebuild kits. I did order orings from cycleorings, but reused stock jets and needles.

I tried giving it a little choke, idle went up (obviously). It made from-the-get-go bogging worse, but it seemed like on the higher side of the tach, it pulled well. I'm at a loss. the only thing I could think of is checking the timing, and actually using a sync tool.
 
Coud still have a clpgged pilot jet orifice. Something else is causing the top and problem though
 
spchips said:
Coud still have a clpgged pilot jet orifice. Something else is causing the top and problem though
Click to expand...

dang, I literally licked the carbs clean with dipping them and spraying them, and made sure my jets were clean.
Would it be a float problem? Because after all that I started it up and within a few minutes #2 carb spit out fuel from the overflow nipple for a few seconds then shut off. FFFFFF!!!!! I'm going to drop that bowl and turn it on pri and see what happens. Last time I checked, I only got 23MPG... way to low. My plugs were black. After the cleaing and adjusting, the plugs are more grey. good, but I haven't had a chance to check MPG yet. something tells me its the same
 
You can't adjust carburetors that are badly out of synch. You can try, but it ain't a gonna happen. :D I would be willing to bet the vacuum levels on your carbs are all over the scale. Do a vacuum synch. That is step #1 in carb adjustment and tuning.
Until the carbs are all drawing the same volume of air, you can't adjust crap.

Earl
 
earlfor said:
You can't adjust carburetors that are badly out of synch. You can try, but it ain't a gonna happen. :D I would be willing to bet the vacuum levels on your carbs are all over the scale. Do a vacuum synch. That is step #1 in carb adjustment and tuning.
Until the carbs are all drawing the same volume of air, you can't adjust crap.

Earl
Click to expand...
you know what, that's what I'm thinking. That would cause lingering high idle... I did a bench sync, and made sure the slides were all 1mm past the opening... but that doesn't guarantee they are all pulling the same vacuum right?
 
Octain said:
If you havnt recently, might not hurt to try a new set of plugs.
Click to expand...


..I guess.... they are not that old. No more than 500 miles on them.
New dyna S ignition, green coils, and taylor wires. I have insane spark, like I said, I need to hook up the timing light agian to make sure that spark is firing at the right time. I did once already and marked the rotor with white paint. As I revved the white marks grew farther part, normal. My GS just starts so good, no smoke, new parts, fresh cleaning... it makes me sick!
 
goggleboy said:
you know what, that's what I'm thinking. That would cause lingering high idle... I did a bench sync, and made sure the slides were all 1mm past the opening... but that doesn't guarantee they are all pulling the same vacuum right?
Click to expand...

I can guarantee you the carbs are NOT puliing the same vacuum. The point of a bench synch is to get it to run long enough to do an actual synch. A bench synch is nothing more than your best guess at making an adjustment on something you can't see or hear. :D

Earl
 
earlfor said:
I can guarantee you the carbs are NOT puliing the same vacuum. The point of a bench synch is to get it to run long enough to do an actual synch. A bench synch is nothing more than your best guess at making an adjustment on something you can't see or hear. :D

Earl
Click to expand...

so your suggesting I get it synced with a sync tool. I want to buy one, which one would you suggest? this is the only thing I could think could be wrong.... besides the #2 carb spitting fuel sometimes from the overflow nipple. I don't run hoses from the nipples, would this create any problem?
 
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